2003 Ford F250 HD

Actually it's really a pretty smart feature IMHO.  That truck is pretty easy to slip a coathanger in and push the unlock button.  This prevents that and makes the truck a lot harder to break into. 

Hello everyone,

Sorry to keep asking such stupid questions, but there are a few things I want to verify before fullfilling my installation. 

The VSM is noted as being to the right of the accelorator and above the tranny hump; all I have found in that local is a metal box covered by a plastic shield, located almost dead center and directly on top of the hump.  is this indeed the VSM?

Also, I have installed a couple of alarms that had problems with the accessories powering up, i.e., everything powerups except for the guages and a/c.  Sincer there are two acc. in the cluster, must they both be powered up?  I have used the second ignition output to suppliment this in the past, but I need both (the alarm offers two) for the two ignitions, correct?  Should I use a relay? If so, what should it be wired to? 

Like I said, I know these are stupid questions, my God, I am MECP certefied, but when it comes to my vehicle, not to mention others', I would rather ask twice and do once.  I no longer work in a shop so have noone else to ask - thank God for you guys.

In any event, thanks for all your help - ya'll are definitly life savers!!!

Thanks again,

David

Yes, that is the VSM, look for the wires associated with the VSM and test to make sure they are infact the right ones with a DMM. As far as a sceond accessory wire, you need a relay wired like this:

• 87 : 12 volts constant
• 86 : GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING
• 85 : Accessory 1 wire on car or remote starter
• 30 : To accessory 2 on vehicle
• 87a: NOT USED

Make sure that the second ignition wire that you have on the remote starter does not have a current load limitation on it. Most systems that I have worked with has a second ignition wire on the harness but  it only triggers a relay (-) and in some cases the 2nd ignition wire carries a 6 amp max load on it.

Thanks Jeff for the reply...

I too thought that was the VSM, but after testing each and every wire (there were a few), I found that it wasnt the module.  I did find it almost directly above this "module" and it was right behind the radio. 

In any event, I have some further questions:  I have seen a few notes regarding the dome light delay.  When one exits the vehicle, the domelight remains lit until the delay is over, or the doors are locked via the remote.  No prob there, thats what it should do...However, once the engine is turned off, the domelight also turns on, which, in the event of remote shutdown, would trigger the alarm, correct?  So, how would I rectify this?  Would I do the abvoious and remove all four door panes and isolate the triggers via diodes?  God I hope not, pain in the arse... 

Also, on the schematics for the relay build that you gave me, I am a bit uncertain as to what the 85 terminal goes to.  From what I see, it looks like it could either go to the acc wire (1) on the car, or the output from the alarm.  Thats all fine, but in the first, would I need to interupt the cars acc wire and add a link to the relay, or in the later, wouldnt I need the acc output to go the the car's acc?

As noted above, I know these are stupid questions and I cant thank you enough for bearing with me. 

Thanks again,

David

P.s. who makes the delay relay for the wait to start and where would be the best place to find it?  noone in my town has them in stock.  thanks again

David, I have had the best luck when adding a second acc. is to use 2 relays;

-acc wire from remote starter to 86 of both relays

-85 of both relays to ground

-87 of both relays to 12+

-30 from one relay to acc. 1

-30 from the other relay to acc. 2

Pin 85 goes to the primary ACCESSORY wire either from the remote starter or the vehicle (RED / LIGHT GREEN ). Unfortunately, you need to diode isolate the door triggers for the domelight delay...individually. Here is a great post that goes into detail about the GEM bypass:

Door Triggers / False Alarm / Diode Wiring

try your local Radio Shack or electronics store for the wait to start use a pulse timer relay .

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hey David,

Sorry, but it's not as easy as just isolating the door triggers.....tried that, if you read my post you'll see. http://https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=4971&PagePosition=6#thread

These Fords have switches built into the door latch that are normally CLOSED to ground. This is telling the alarm that the door is open when it is closed. I tried several times too get help and communicate the problem, but apparently no body knows how to fix it.

If you do figure it out PLEASE LET ME KNOW.....thanks

I can't remember, does the truck have an indicator on the dash telling you the doors are open?

If not, this is going to be almost impossible to do.  You would need 2 or 4 relays (depending on if it is a 2 door or 4 door)  and the relays would be energised whenever the doors are closed.  This is not acceptable.  Let me think about this a while, there has to be a way to do it.  I think most would use the dome light wire.