2003 Ford F250 HD

I am with you Danny, did a 03 F250 superduty today and found out you cannot use the latch wiring. It shows 3 volts when door is open and ground with the doors shut.  I ended up using the BLACK/ blue almost under the front seat below the kick plate.  What happens now is that when you arm the system after shutting the doors the alarm chirps three times and when the dome shuts off it chirps to confirm it sees the domelight turn off.  There is a light in the dash that only comes on with the key.  I have to research it more to confirm what I can do to resolve this glitch.  So much for diode isolating the doors with the latch wires.  It keeps getting harder every day!

DanDan

Thanks again for all your help...

It looks like Im not the only one sailing in the domelight problem boat.  I am using a Viper 550esp, by the way.

The domelight is only a problem when 1) the alarm is set and 2) when remote start shutsdown.  I have to wait until the light goes out to arm, otherwise it neglects the door triggers.  It is only a fifteen second wait, but who wants to hang around of walk off slowly enough to allow the alarm time to arm.  Also, when the engine cuts off, the light goes on, therefore it "thinks" the doors are open.

I dunno, hope that we can figure it out between all of us.  Time will tell...

Thanks again,

David

Hey fishscale,

To beat domelight delay use LIGHT GREEN/ YELLOW in driver's kick and PINK/LIGHT BLUE in passenger kick.  These wires test as ground with door closed and open with door open. Use a 502T ground loop sensor on EACH DOOR. The 502T is a DEI piece.

It can be done with relays but it drains the battery in no time flat.