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Painting Dash Pieces?


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Iceorbz 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: April 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 01, 2005 at 9:01 PM / IP Logged  
Question d_arnold, I follwed your instructions on paiting but when i get to the clearcoat ive put 3 coats on right now, it looks really nice.  So I continued on... when "wet sanding" how wet should it be ? After I was done it looked more like I had scuffed it then polished, More like a residue that was left from the water, but is the rubbing compound going to get rid of this ? (Do you have a compound that you like to use ?)
2004 2.4l SRT-4
d_arnold 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 2:13 AM / IP Logged  
Wet sanding keeps your paper clean and the water washes the sanding particles away. For smaller parts you can just dip your paper in a cup of water or use a spray bottle to wet the part it's self. When you have wet sanded with 1500 and 2000 it will look hazey and dull. The rubbing compound will fix that and it will come back shiny again. This is going to take awhile without a buffer or some kind. By wet sanding and buffing you are removing any orange peel, roughness, or dirt that landed on your project. As for compounds. I use 3M. Autobody supply will have a range of compounds. It's easy to get carried away with all the extra stuff you can get to make your paint jobs better.   After compounding you can hand rubb with a glaze/ sealer. Never apply wax for at least 30 days. For smaller stuff the little bottle of 3M rubbing compound found at wal-mart works just fine.
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 9:24 AM / IP Logged  
I got a question too. Do you have a particuliar website in which you purchase all medium from? I have went to Advance Auto, O' Riellys, and Autozone and could not find "rage gold" body filler, also I know that painting by spray can isn't cost effective for big parts so what brand (cheaper than HOK paints) do you prefer? I have a 120PSI (I think) compressor and 1 1/2 gallon tank ( I only use it for painting my fiberglassed pieces.) Lastly, how do you know the ratio of paint to paint thinner, I am just getting started and am a little confused by the everybody's equations. thanks
r0yal 
Copper - Posts: 72
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 19, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 12:41 PM / IP Logged  
mi_what: if you have a NAPA Auto Parts in your city, they carry Rage Gold bodyfiller, also, they carry DUPONT line of paint, it is cheaper than HOK, and if you go with DuPont's "NASON" brand, it will be even cheaper, and get pretty much the same results.
d_arnold 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
I actually use RM Diamont paints the most. I was getting my paints from a locally onwed auto body supply store until I found I could get it cheaper. Recently I've been order from Autobodysupply.net.   They are out of Texas and have to best prices on just about every thing.
HOK
Dupont
Diamont
3M
Matix
As far as mixing paints. I always ask for the tech sheets, they give the recommending mixing ratio. Most automotive basecoats are a 1:1 ratio with there reducer. At autobodysupply.net they sell pre mixed matrix brand paints. I have sprayed matrix clearcoat which needs to be mixed with a hardner, and it works as well as the twice as expensive Diamont. I have not ordered any basecoats online. But they do make it easy if you know what color you what.    Also these paints are not made to be sprayed on a laquer based primer. If you are going to spray professional basecoat/ clearcoat paint you need to also start spraying a good urethane based primer. Just to save you time you can't buy urethane based primer at wal-mart, autozone, or advance auto, believe me I looked several times at every spray can and they all use laquer witch will repell your clear and piss you off.   I use Evercoat brand from Kunkle auto supply. It's about $80.00 a gallon with the activator you need. Diamont makes a spray can for smaller stuff that's about $11 and U-Pol make a can for $15, cheaper to buy that gallon if you have that much to paint. And while we're at it don't forget a good prep solvent to remove all oils before you paint.
I just primed a project I've been working on today with the evercoat and I must say it's beautiful. I'll post all the pics at once when it's finished prolly only a few more weeks now.   
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks d_arnold. That was extremely good, useful information. You say you use Evercoat brand primer, and Matrix clear, do you find that they don't repel from most basecoats. I mean if I were to say purchase Evercoat primer, HOK or dupont base, and Matrix clear, would they adhere with each other properly or would the different brands repel each other? I read a post on here that was talking about how companies make primer and clear that only work with thier bases. I just want to make sure before I spray some and get all pissed off. I am looking at finishing sanding my fiberglassed door panel tomorrow so I will post pictures and I will probably keep asking you questions about which paints will adhere to what. I appreciate all your help.
d_arnold 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2005 at 9:52 PM / IP Logged  
I've used every combonation of Evercoat, Diamont, and U-POL urethane primers under Diamont basecoats, Napa basecoats, and with Matrix clear coats, Diamont clear coats, and Napa Clear Coats and never had a problem with any of them repeling. It's pretty safe to say that as long as the primer is urethane based and not laquer based, and you keep off any oils from finger or any thing else you will be fine.
The only time I ever had a problem was when I tried to cheap out on the primer and bought laquer based from wal-mart. Boy was I pissed. I put the base coat down and it looked great so I put on my first layer of clear, and it started lifting in random places. I was so mad. Clear Coat is expensive and I just wasted everything I had mixed. Once you add the hardner that's it. There is no saving that stuff.
I tell people to buy the same brand if they are useing spray cans like krylon, or plasticoat. It's safer that way. The spray cans are for such general use it hard to know the specifics. You just never know which spray can is going to repel and which isn't, so thats why you stick to the same brand.    
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 03, 2005 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks dave. Do you have your own business by the way? I took a look at your website, you got some good stuff on there. I was just wondering because my friend and myself wanted to start up a shop when we ETS from the Army and I wanted to know if we got out and immediatly started shop, if we would be able to go full time. Now, I know that you probably wouldn't know because you don't know the city where I plan to start it up at, but what I am asking is if you find you have enough traffic to sustain business full time, or do you find that you can only work part time?
d_arnold 
Copper - Posts: 59
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 03, 2005 at 12:39 PM / IP Logged  
Well I used to have a shop. A partner and I owened Audio Xclusive of Woodside Delaware for about 2 years. Unforunitly it wasn't funded properly. I had very little money backing the busines. We were broken into 3 times. The 3rd time I couldn't afford the repairs to the shop. The messed it up pretty bad and we lost a lot of inventory. I had a awesome alarm installed after the first brake in. The second people that tried got caught because of the alarm. The 3rd people got in and wrecked shop so fast they were gone before the cops got there. So we closed after that. Now I only do installs on the side. I actually work full time at a website hosting company. My website will eventually be more of an e commerce site, thats one of my many projects. For the most part I only do side jobs at my house. I get jobs referred to me all the time and make pretty good money doing it that way.   I'm also going to be developing personnal websites after I finish my developing services website it's coming soon. But to answer your question we had a lot of traffic in the summer. In a short time we built up a good reputation of doing custom installs the other shops wouldn't do. I say if you can define your business and market that difference you will do fine. A word of advice put up some bars or just don't have windows. You just never know when someone will break in. It's not a question of if. It really a question of can you stop them when they try, and do you have the insurance and money to recover if thy succeed.
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 03, 2005 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged  
Dave, You are the man. You have EXTREMELY helpful information for every question I asked. Let me know when you start doing personal webpages, I will be the first one to give you business for my business.
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