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Electrical Load Detector Killed My system


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skoldspuppy 
Silver - Posts: 342
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Joined: July 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 11, 2005 at 10:21 PM / IP Logged  

NowYaKnow wrote:
Not sure how accurate this will be on the 04's, but feel free to test it out and post your findings.
Put your volt meter on the battery with the vehicle OFF and note the reading.
Start the car and let it idle 30 seconds or so, and note the reading.
Continue to let the car idle, but turn the headlights on, and note the reading.
With the car off, you should see about 12.6 volts or so. At idle, if the car is in low charge mode it would not read much above 12.6. At idle with the headlights on, it should go to normal charge mode and go up to 14 - 14.5 volts or so.
If that works, then you could get away with just turning on your headlights whenever you drive to have the alternator at full charge. You could also fool the sensor pretty easily by sending the correct voltage to it I would think.
Mike

Now thats a suggestion thanks, tomorrow I'll give that a shot..

2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr
Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell
skoldspuppy 
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Posted: May 11, 2005 at 10:30 PM / IP Logged  

auex wrote:
I'll stop at one of the Honda dealer's I work with and ask the service director what he thinks. By the way, if your sound system was at fault then your warranty wouldn't have covered it, another indicator why I believe the dealer is full of shhh.

Thanks Auex

I know it wasnt covered under warranty, until I was forced to give up my HO alternator after I agreed to take one for the team, they "overlooked" the fact it was a HO alt and not the factory one.. only then was my repair covered by warranty

Either way Im out my HO and I cannot under any circumenstances put a HO back in, the audio system is not worth the last day of me and my Wife screaming at each other over this, so Im letting her win, no HO what are my other options, downgrading if I have to I just have no idea how many watts I can run safely off a 70amp alt

2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr
Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell
Alpine Guy 
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 1:14 AM / IP Logged  
Does a 2002 civic have this so called device??
2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
skoldspuppy 
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Joined: July 11, 2004
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 9:38 AM / IP Logged  

Alpine Guy wrote:
Does a 2002 civic have this so called device??

Not to my knowledge

But here is a picture of it , its in the fuse box under the hood

Electrical Load Detector Killed My system - Page 2 -- posted image.

At the bottom here Im thinking about tapping the out lead of the fuse box so my amp will be after the ELD so it can detect load at all times

2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr
Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell
Paradigm 
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 9:55 AM / IP Logged  
Shoulda bought domestic...then you wouldn't of had to lie about your screw-up and also fight with your wife. Sucks to be you Electrical Load Detector Killed My system - Page 2 -- posted image.
VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
skoldspuppy 
Silver - Posts: 342
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  

Paradigm wrote:
Shoulda bought domestic...then you wouldn't of had to lie about your screw-up and also fight with your wife. Sucks to be you Electrical Load Detector Killed My system - Page 2 -- posted image.

Ok then what domestic has alts that are at least 100+ amps from the factory, you name them.. i'll buy

2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr
Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell
haemphyst 
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Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: May 12, 2005 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged  
Paradigm wrote:
Shoulda bought domestic...then you wouldn't of had to lie about your screw-up and also fight with your wife. Sucks to be you Electrical Load Detector Killed My system - Page 2 -- posted image.
First off, a domestic manufacturer wouldn't have even allowed him to lie, cover it up, or whatever, and STILL cover the failure under warranty. I've seen that happen WAY more often than with Honda or Toyota.
Second off, (and here is where I piss people off!) I resent that remark... Skolds, keep the Honda... Nothing in passenger cars is worth a crap for longevity from the domestics... Besides that, your Honda probably has more "American" parts in it than many "American" cars... AND, it is actually BUILT in America, not Mexico or Canada... (Marysville, Ohio, to be precise) by non-union auto builders who make as much money as union autoworkers from the "Big 3" - because they WORK for it. Difference is - if they do not work enough, or produce inferior products, they lose their JOB... They don't have a union backing them to "protect" them... and they know it. Unions SUCK - been there, done that! All a union does is allow you to buy your job for a monthly fee, and AFAIAC, they have outlived their usefulness in America today.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Master Asylum 
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 11:02 AM / IP Logged  

Hae is my man here. He is entirely on(family in the industry will back this well enough.) **** unions. Anyways.

My 98 Monte Carlo is packing 100-105 amp stock. it is ugly, old, and booo. But other than that, it has good trunk space and can handle my amp fine with a 2nd yellow top.

Though hae, I must disagree with one thing. This Monte Carlo is now at 141k and going fine. My 90 Grand Prix I had before it sold for 1400 with 200k on it and going fine other than some minor problem(I don't even remember what). There are some domestics that, if treated well, hold up great. Now given, those two vehicles are VERY similar, but I'd say that they carry over well enough to some other stuff. (Seen a chevy blazer with like 100/+ that is holding up great, only needed a new alternator.) Though I greatly agree with them not turning their heads like the Honda boys did, no way would you get that outta money grubbing companies that you'll find in America.

1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
5150azn 
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Joined: June 21, 2004
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Posted: May 12, 2005 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged  
I used to be a honda certified tech and also used to own a import tuning shop so maybe I can shed some light on this. It's been a while and I maybe wrong but this is what is rolling through my head.
- All vehicles have some form of ELD. This is to prevent the alternator from over working by being on high output all the time.
- When you add an after market system directly to your battery the only thing you may damage is
     1. Battery: Constant charging and draining wreaks havoc on the internals.
     2. Alternator: If the ELD"system" senses the battery is at a lower voltage than it should be then the alternator goes on high charge mode, thus straining the alternator.
Your ECU should be safe.... Unless your ELD's reference voltage suddenly spikes to an unsafe voltage. In which case it would be a faulty ELD and nothing to do with your system.
Here's the big one....
What I think is you should add another battery to help with the peak voltage drops that send your battery(ies) to such levels as to tell the ELD that your voltage levels are too low thus cranking your HO alt on full power all the time(the whole 6 months). Your over working your ELD and your Alt.   Your alt. shouldn't work that hard being that it's putting out twice as much power already. The thing is you have to store that power so your alt doesn't have to keep making more.
Sorry for the big post! It's early and I'm bored.
Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!
MoneyPit 
Member - Posts: 36
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Joined: August 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 12, 2005 at 11:20 AM / IP Logged  

skoldspuppy; just FYI

Right now I'm running one Kicker KX400.1 (birthed at 465) and two 12" P1's  at 2ohms (yeah I know, but it sounds decent for now)

I can watch the volt guage dip to 10v on hard hits but the lights don't dim at all. It's in a '90 Ford F150 with the factory 70A alt.......without even the Big3.  The power wire to the Alt and battery to chassi ground is only 12 AWG!!

Good luck in whatever you decide...

Bill
System in progress:
2 Kicker KX400.1's - 945w RMS
2 12" P3's in a ported box built by local shop
1 Kicker KX250.2 to drive the mids and highs
1 set Alpine SPR-136A for mids & highs
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