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Advice for a new system


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Darlabbq 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 27, 2005 at 4:16 PM / IP Logged  

Hello, 1st post here. I have a 2001 SS Camaro I am rebuilding and would like to have a tough sounding system in it. It always surprises guys that I like to have bass in my cars and that I work on them. Now I kind of want to shock them some more. I have already run 4 gauge stinger wire and dream series RCA's under the carpet. Now I need sub(s) and amp advice. I would like to get the Kicker L7's. But I am working in limited space because I only want to use the top of my trunk, and not the t-top holder area for speakers and box. I plan to mount the amp on the front side of the t-top area where it won't interfere with taking t-tops out. I have a 1 farad stinger capacitor.

Please let me know if this is a good plan

2- Kicker 12" L7's with 4 ohm (or should I get 2 ohm)?

1- Kicker kx1200.1 amp or the SX1250.1 Amp?

I'm wanting to not break my glass out, but maybe enter a small competition every now and then. I plan to build a nice looking fiberglass box (with help of course). I would like to stick with Kicker speakers and amp.  What would any of you choose?  I started to go with a solo x and the 2500.1 amp, but that was a little more expensive than I can afford right now.

jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 27, 2005 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged  
if you want to get wither one of the amps you are looking at you would need to get dual 4 ohm subs, other wise you will be pushing the amp into protection with 1/2 ohm, or getting little power at 2 ohm.   with dual 4 ohm subs you can achieve the 1 ohm load these amps need to see.   I will recommend the kx1200 only if you have alot of power to put to it.    I will put it this way, with a factory 85 amp alternator in a honda civic it will not run right, will drop into voltage protection.    At ohm these amps can draw close to 150 amps.    well worth the money IF you can power them.    As far as L7's in a open cab,     if your not to picky about how clean the bass is then go for it.   I am not a fan of L7's in a open cab, frankly I will only use them for SPL shows then take them out
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 27, 2005 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  
Darla, I agree with what Jeff said.  And I think if you want to compete once in awhile you should look more to a complete system, good for all kinds of listening.  The quality of the car, the workmanship, the look, and the driver (lol) are all counted in the points (but whadda I know...).  The car isn't great for an SPL car as Jeff pointed out, and the L7's aren't something you'll want to listen to for daily entertainment...just to get a "ooooh" every now and then.  Maybe look at the Comp VR's instead.  Also, the L7's want a LOT of box volume, which it sounds like you don't have room for.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
racer427 
Silver - Posts: 381
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 12:28 AM / IP Logged  

I have to agree in regards to the L7's. They are mainly an SPL sub, if you are looking for a bit of sound quality and want to stick with Kicker, then look into the Comp VR's. They are still not a super SQ sub but, they are not as bad as the L7's in the SQ depatment.

If you want to hit some good numbers and still retain some decent SQ then perhaps look into a few other lines of subs like the Adire line up.

Chris

Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds
fr33w0rld 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 3:11 AM / IP Logged  

Advice for a new system -- posted image.

get some ma audio subs and amps...they pound hard....i got 18's in my civic..get some nice 12d06's..and a nice ma high current amp.

kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
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Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: May 30, 2005 at 5:09 PM / IP Logged  
yikes bro.... that has to be one of the sloppiest looking installs i've seen in quite a while.......
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 30, 2005 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  

Presentation, freeworld, presentation.  You should lock up that trunk.  Chain and padlock it for good measure.  This is an installation where you should let the beholder use his imagination.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
kfr01 
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Joined: April 30, 2003
Posted: May 30, 2005 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged  

You have 4gauge power and a stock alternator (I assume).  This limits your ability to run huge amplifiers.  The 1200.1 is probably pushing it if you are seriously interested in competition. 

What I'd do:

1)  Figure out how much space you have to dedicate to a box.  1cu ft?  4?

2)  Buy a pair of relatively efficient subwoofers that will work well ported in that size box.  Design and build the box.  Install the subs.  Test it on some cheapo amplifier.  Remember to set the gains correctly.  

3)  Buy an efficient class-d mono amplifier that puts out the power you need.

Why take these steps?  If you don't have the funds or high output alternator to compete on sheer power you NEEEEED to focus on efficiency.  NEED.  Having a 600w amplifier v.s. a 1200 amplifier means squat unless you FIRST have the right subs AND enclosure.   (Even then there's only a max 3db spl difference).  Again.  The subs and enclosure will have a MUCH larger impact on the sound and spl than the amplifier.  The amplifier picking step is last. 

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 31, 2005 at 6:46 AM / IP Logged  
very True KFR...You could also look into some of the very nice and efficent A/B amps     My personal favorites the Memphis HC 50 and 100 series amps...They are harder to find but thy do come up now and again.   When your talking about 800-1000 watts of clean power at 1/2 ohm mono     you have to love that.     Great amps for a set of dual 4 ohm subs
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
Darlabbq 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 02, 2005 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks KFR01

The stock alternator will have to run it for a little while until I finalize exactly what I need. Don't want to buy a certain alternator, then choose my stereo stuff to find out that I need a different alternator later.

Just some rough measurements of my space is about 3 feet wide. 8-10" tall on back  slanting down to about 4" in front. The speakers would be angled toward my back glass. Just your basic camaro's top trunk space. I will measure this evening to find out exactly how big it is. After I get this measurement, I suppose someone could tell me if I should use 1 speaker or 2.  I don't care how many I use, just how many I need to use. 1 is safe, but 2 could be awesome.

I like the kicker L7's because of the shape, brand, and color (I like blue!) All my neon will be blue later. I heard the L5s hooked up to a smaller kicker amp and it sounded great in the store in a factory box. The kicker Comp vr's are just the wrong shape and look to normal for me. The sony x-plod's are nice looking, but I want something that everyone won't have. I would like to keep everthing matching too. Kicker amp & Subs or some other brand sub & amp, not mixed up.

Just to clear this up though. I'm not talking about large competitions. I live in Northeast Mississippi, and there are maybe 4 major competitions withing about 200 miles. I'm talking about a local festival with car show and db drag race. Not a big thing. Just local stuff maybe.

Money isn't too big an issue. I just don't want the system to cost more than the car. I would definitely like to keep it under $2000. I have 2 guy friends who are electronic geniuses, so one is going to help me build the write size box (Fiberglass because it looks so neat), and help me wire it right to get the correct ohms (I've never worried about that before, so it is a learning experience for me.)

Now everyone knows more about my focus. Look Good, Sound Good, if it takes money, then it will be worth it.

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