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1996 Ford Contour remote starter


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ken984 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 3:10 PM / IP Logged  
Acc Lock?
where are you seeing that?
On the switch? if so its not "ACC Lock" its "ACC" and "Lock".
Key in ACC the radio should play, in Lock you should be able to remove it from the switch.
joe_1 
Silver - Posts: 286
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 12, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged  

about that brake wire dont u want it to go 12v + when u hit it to send back to the alarm thats how it cuts the alarm from the engine staying on and your saying it is 12v constant and it loses it when you press it this will cause the remote start not to work

ken984 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  
No the brake wire should go +12v when you press the pedal.
bodybuilder 
Copper - Posts: 54
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  
for the remote start, the main relay that connects to the green wire and acts as a kill switch of some sort says I'm too connect the smaller blue wire wire coming out of it to "acc lock" in the diagram in the manual. I wasn't totally sure if they mean the "acc" wire or what. and about the brake wire, I never did anything with this yet. But I know on a wire diagram on this site for a 1998 contour, the wiring colours are pretty well the same as the 1996, and it shows n/a for brake switch HOT. and it shows orange / YELLOW for brake switch cold. and it's this orange yellow that loses 12 volts when I hit the pedal, but gets the 12 volts back when I let off the pedal. at some point there has to be a +12 from the pedal if your brake lights at the rear come on.
Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second
ken984 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 4:02 PM / IP Logged  
ok that sounds like a starter kill circuit and if that is what it is the blue wire is probably meant for the True ignition circuit, in other words the wire that goes hot when you turn the key and stays hot during the crank cycle.
According to the DEI information, the brake wire rests at ground and when you press the pedal it connects the brake lights to 12v. If you are sure you have the correct wire, just because its the right color does not mean its the right wire, then maybe DEI is wrong but i do not remember what i did on my Contour back in 96. More than likely they are right and you are measuring the wrong wire. If you cannot find the right wire under the dash, look under the carpet running down the drivers door sill, there should be a bundle of wires there and use your meter to find one that goes to +12v when you hit the brake.
bodybuilder 
Copper - Posts: 54
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
Looking at the diagram I am almost certain they mean acc, becuase in the picture the wire is coming from the part of the ignition where acc is written, and lock is written below.
Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second
ken984 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
If its the starter kill, ACC will NOT work right. It needs true ignition, since i do not know for sure what purpose the relay is for, I am guessing.
bodybuilder 
Copper - Posts: 54
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: June 08, 2005 at 5:43 PM / IP Logged  
alright. what I figured out with this little blue wire, when I plug it into my acc wire. once I turn on the acc, it powers the relay which disables my green ignition wire from allowing my motor to start. it'll still turn over when I turn it over with the key, but I get no starting because I'm not getting spark with the green ignition wire not having contact. once I remove this blue wire from any +12 power source and leave it alone. then the green wire has power.
Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second
ken984 
Copper - Posts: 78
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2005 at 7:19 AM / IP Logged  
That is the starter kill, it is wired up wrong. Your starter wire FROM the alarm box should be on the starter side, not the ignition switch side. The little blue wire should NOT be hooked to ACC it should be hooked to TRUE ignition, which is the Green wire. It also seems like you have that relay hooked to the green wire, that is not right either, it should be hooked to the Grey/white, you do not want it to kill the ignition you want it only to kill the starter. Move the relay to the grey/white and wire it up like I said.
Grey white should have the starter kill relay, and 1 wire from your alarm the start wire.
Green should not have any relays on it(other than the OUTPUTfrom the remote start that energizes it, but do not Interupt the wire with a relay), just the ignition sense from the alarm and the blue wire from the starter kill relay.
bodybuilder 
Copper - Posts: 54
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: June 11, 2005 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
I figured out the whole joke with the brakes. There's actually 2 seperate switches above the brake pedal. the one above with orange / YELLOW goes hot when not using the switch and cold when pressing it. But the switch below also has an orange / YELLOW wire that only goes hot when you press the pedal, so this is where I hooked in this final wire.
Don't have a hero.
Look up to no one;
because if someone's leading the way, the best you'll ever be is second
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