Bypass lockout on AVIC-N2, AVIC-D1

Haha, same here! Infact, I was going to buy a N1 because of this issue with the N2, but now I heard of this and everyday I keep hearing more and more news about this mod working so well - I decided to give it a shot and go with the N2. Should have it here by end of next week and I will come back and let you guys know how the mod worked out for me.

Pcguy and others: this is a honest analysis and the best information available. I copied this from another thread that you may not have seen. I posted this information from my own testing of various Avic N1 and N2 units. As you already know, the N1 is easy to bypass, the N2 is in the advanced experimentation stage of bypass technology.

This is a copy of my research posted elsewhere on 12 volt forums.

This is an update to my own previous posting.

This is a summary and my opinion of the bypass solutions:

The various switch installations These methods work, but involve intalling variations of additional relays or toggle switches. These methods enable the watching of DVDs while in motion, howver, in some variations, the video is patched through the backup camera port. A disclaimer appears on the screen and entering navigation data while moving is questionable.

The dripping solder method using the R197 pins covered by silver tape on the bottom side of the display unit:

This method is the absolute best method, it really does open up the use of the unit without restriction or disclaimers on the screen. The dowside is your ability to solder a jumper between two tiny pins that can only be accessed through a factory access hole in the bottom of the unit. The pins are surrounded by wax which will melt when hot. If the wax melts too much, the pins will be covered and you will not be able to solder. I know, I tried it the first time and failed.

Using some other device to jump the 197 pins:

After the first failure at soldering, I got a new radio and tried using a less permanent method, a screw attached to packing tape. I attached it to tape so that it would be held in place in the access hole and would not fall inside the radio. This method worked, but, I scrapped the idea because it was too much trouble and the screw could come loose. I decided to re-visit the solder method, and devise a better way than dripping the molten solder.

The latest new and improved 197 solder method which almost anyone can do:

1. Uncover the access hole by removing the silver tape on the underside of the display unit. You will see R197 printed over two tiny pins.

2. Put some rubbing alcohol on a small piece of paper towel, wrap it around a small screw driver, and clean the 197 pins so excess wax will be removed.

3. Cut a small piece of sanding paper and using the screw driver rub it over the pins so the solder will have a better chance of sticking.

4. Take some thin electrical wire, must be a size smaller than number 18, strip the insulation back 1/16 inch, and prepare the stripped end by adding solder.

5. Use a soldering iron that has a pointed end. I ground mine down on a grinder to make sure it would easily fit into the access hole and still enable me to see.

6. Holding the wire in your left hand, place the soldered end between the two 197 pins, insert the soldering iron and carefully heat the end of the wire like you are soldering it to the pins. Three things will happen. You will solder the wire to the pins, which is fine. Some solder will drip off and short the pins, which is fine. Or, you will fail, nothing will be harmed if you don't melt the wax. Very little solder is needed. If the wire sticks to the pins, fine, clip the wire off and make sure no bare ends touch the case.

I took my time using method six, the unit now allows unrestricted use.

In all cases I grounded the emergency brake wire, don't know if I had to, but, did it anyway.

You may be violating state law by messing with the radio and watching DVDs while driving. Do this at your own risk.

If you don't know how to solder, or fail at jumping the 197 pins, and you screw  up your radio, welcome to the club. That is what testing is all about. If you don't want to take the chance, don't touch the radio. Enjoy it in the stock configuration. This is my last post...until somone figures out something better. My other two Avics are now modified, mission accomplished. I can now watch music videos while stuck in CA traffic, rolling along at ten miles per hour.

Just ground the parking brake wire and it should play DVDs or you soldered wrong.  The speed sense has nothing to do with the bypass, only increases the accuracy of the navigation and vehicle dynamics

Yes.  Do a little soldering; and ground the greenish wire.

Thanks algutkin - Can you believe people are trying to sell this info that you just gave us?! Well I finally managed to win a Brand New sealed N2 on Ebay for $1150. I seen some a little cheaper but the sellers feedback ratings kinda made me nervous with something that I gotta pay that much for. Still not bad for $1150 eh?

As mentioned, once I get it and do the mod, I will let everyone know how it turned out.

PCGuy760:

I think I was the guy bidding against you. That is,  if it was the unit being sold by the outfit in Corona, CA.  My next bid had to be $1175.00 so I quit. I'm not into driving up the price for the next guy.  The radio is a good deal at $1150.00.

I personally think the N2s are going up in price as we get closer to Chrismas, so I thought that stocking up would be good for some extra bucks. I wouldn't sell the bypass info, or sell radios that had been bypassed, that is just looking for a future law suit, if not from some damaged person, it might come from Pioneer themselves. Selling bypass info or bypassed radios might put Pioneer in some kind of legal jeopardy. I bet they fix the R197 pins on the future units they manufacture.

good luck with the install, you got a good deal on that radio.

Al