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2002 honda accord ex


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analog-ed 
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Joined: October 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 03, 2002 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged  

J.Rilla

Thanks for your input.

When my wife got home I remotely unlocked the doors,then remotely started the car. Seems to work o.k.(not alarming) I then remotely relocked the doors with the car running.That also works.

So, for the short term, It will be a three button operation. Its cold here in NJ and I'm working outdoors. When the weather warms up a little, I'll get into the drivers door to properly disarm the system via the blue wire.

Any hints on removing the  2002 accord - ex drivers door?

Thanks for your help..

Ed

ed
securinu 
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Joined: September 15, 2002
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Posted: December 03, 2002 at 6:37 PM / IP Logged  
screw behind the handle also on the pull handle to close and the res should be panel clips that just pop off.
Oc768 
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Joined: November 03, 2002
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Posted: December 03, 2002 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  

If you do not want to pull apart the drivers door there is also an orange wire coming out of the passenger door into the ECM behind the pass. side dash panel.  I will have to double check the exact position # but it is either a solid orange or orange with silver dots going into the green plug closest to the firewall. It is a ~24 cond. plug I beleive. 

If you connect this wire to ground it will unlock all doors and disarm alarm. It is the wire for the passenger side key cylinder unlock signal, to the ECM.  The trick is deciding if you want to have all doors unlock @ time of starting or not.  Because when running, the factory remotes disable..so you would have to relock manually if you wanted it locked (as opposed to unlocking manually when using the blue wire in the drivers door). 

It was recommended to me (prior to the install in my 99 Accord ex) to use a gray wire coming from the drivers rear door to one of the green plugs in drivers side ECM console.  If you hear this and get the notion - avoid this at all costs, as it will produce a very similar effect to what you have now - except a bit trickier (it employs a timer circuit and if connected to a pulsed output - will re-arm the instant the ground pulse stops = instant alarm with the car running = car shutting down fuel pump on alarm, R.S. trying to re-start, etc. very unpretty.).   

Just food for thought...good luck with the install. 

Oc768 
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Posted: December 03, 2002 at 9:47 PM / IP Logged  

Oh, and to answer your original question above (and at the risk of not repeating exactly what jr said..):

Yes, the blue wire is the best wire to use in this vehicle.

It performs no other function then signal that the drivers door key cylinder has triggered to unlock. This is the only input on the vehicle that will not rearm automatically after 15 seconds due to Hondas fear of owners locking their keys in the car somehow, and at the same time will not actually energize the un/locking solenoid.  

There is another wire coming off the key cyl to the control unit that will unlock all doors same as the orange on the passenger side..and I believe this is timed @ 20 sec (for relock, and re arm also).  The passenger side (org. wire) will only do this if the vehicle has not seen power to ign #2 after xx amount of seconds. Once it has, it will not re (auto) lock.

Sorry if its too much info...I did the first Accord with the factory alarm still connected and usable (in my own car actually) and it got me pretty good.  I think I still owe sercurinu a 6 pack for saving me that time ;-).  Any others I have done have had aftermarkets in them or LX w/add on's etc. ..which is a different animal entirely.

jrilla 
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Posted: December 03, 2002 at 9:50 PM / IP Logged  
That orange wire is the unlock wire that analog-ed already has tapped into for his keyless entry.  If he uses his new remote from the remote starter he just installed it will disarm the factory alarm.  BUT, if he wants to avoid setting off the factory alarm during remote start, he need to pulse the factory alarm disarm wire before the unit tries to crank the engine.  That is why he has to get to the bluw wire in the drivers door.  I tried tracing this wire to the boot, but it doesn't go there, it only goes from the switch to the key cylinder in the door.
J Rilla
Owner/Installer
jrilla 
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Posted: December 03, 2002 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
I was typing my last message when you posted your last one Oc768, sorry it now looks out of place
J Rilla
Owner/Installer
damon9 
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Joined: December 02, 2002
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Posted: December 04, 2002 at 12:50 AM / IP Logged  
you guys are great, I'm going to try your suggestions this weekend.
damon
Oc768 
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Posted: December 04, 2002 at 8:05 AM / IP Logged  

Sorry JRilla, Im a wordy one sometimes, I think they now know more then they ever wanted to about these few wires in their car ;-).  Sorry for repeating the org. wire thing, I was kind of confused myself after reading all the posts oops. 

Yeah, the box in the drivers door is like a mini ecm I beleive. It has databus going between the main unit and itself - to prevent the avg. theif from figuring out how to disarm it through the doorjamb.  Least thats what I can figure?

Damon9 - keep us posted on your results, good luck with the work.  

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