Adire Extremis 6.8 Questions

Yeah I am pretty much planning on scrapping the rear speakers or maybe run the 6x9s off the deck for "fill" (meh). Not a huge concern to be honest. :) I will also be switching the Eclipse unit over to Hi/Mid/Low setup instead of F/R/Sub to do this project and I believe that will do well. So basically:

Highs: (2) Arum Cantus G2si  Ribbon Tweeter ($99.99/each)

High/Mid Amp: Memphis Belle 1300

What exactly do IB mean? I am thinking free air(infinite baffle), but not sure. As for depth I'll check that out, if anyone has the depth spec handy that'd be great so I can look. Also what are the outside dimensions for mounting bracket?

For the tweeters, if I did the IB setup in the doors, how would I fit the tweeter in properly on axis and such? And how would I go about getting a proper crossover for this or understanding? I mean basically, this is stuff I haven't even remotely touched. Crossovers are pretty much out there except for dealing with them on my HU minorly... And I understand LPF and HPF basically... AS for how to figure out which I would need and such... That confuses me, and taking into consideration their impedance level? Sry, I'm just VERY unexperienced here and I don't wanna invest money into something and screw them up.

If you really want to use the Extremis and you want a good matched tweeter and a properly designed crossover, buy a set of Exodus Audio Kit 61's.  Everything you'll need and you can toss the ports into a box for a future project.  If that's too rich for your blood, or if you plan to bi-amp and use active crossovers, buy the Extremis and a couple of decent soft dome tweeters.  "Fabric" means the tweeter is soft dome, which provides a smoother, less harsh sound than poly or metal dome tweeters.  If you do bi-amp be sure to pay careful attention to the power rating of the tweeter and it's recommended high-pass crossover point.

(Realize that different manufacturers list tweeter power ratings differently.  Some rate at "total system power" like 100 watts RMS, and others give "actual power" like 12 watts RMS.  The ones with the seemingly larger system power rating assume you will crossover at the recommended point or higher and are telling you the total system power, with 75% going to the woofer.  Almost all tweeters are actually rated for less than 20 watts themselves.)

And, if all this is simply too confusing (and building a DIY component set can be) simply buy a good quality set of components and be done with it!

Ok I'm probably gonna take the approach of the Extremis combined with like the soft dome setup. As for the two recommended by haemphyst, I can't really get any good power rating info on the Morel or the Vifa. Would nominal power be the equivalent of RMS/Continous figures? Any opinions on either really? Or another really good soft dome out there? Hell if I could get the R-Type by itself, I might go there, but meh. I'd rather see what there is with less car audio name like a Morel or Vifa (At least I've never heard of them.).

So....

Highs: (2) Morel MDT-30 ($58/each)

High/Mid Amp: Memphis Belle 1300

You are saying if it is crossed over at 2000Hz, which should be fine with the Extremis shouldn't it? Using a bi-amp setup for these, what is the next thing I will need to look at? And will my amp still work fine? Some sort of crossover for the tweeters(passive maybe?) that'll block anything below 2000Hz? And then a LPF or HPF combined with an electronic for the Extremis?

Edit: Um, duh... HPF for the tweeters for 2 channels. Stupid me. :/ So basically either a HPF or LPF for the extremis then a passive crossover to cover the opposite side? Also, what would be the suggested range for the extremis?

If you run your Extremis at 3100 and below, what happens if you encounter low Hz signals? I mean 30hz is low, but how damaging if it is encountered? I mean basically I'd kinda like to run it crossed over at 50hz and 3100Hz(Unless there is a reason anyone would have a problem with that?) Now figuring a crossover for the tweeter I'd say I'd do something like maybe around 2000hz? I mean honestly not sure if it'd be better of cutting them at the same frequency with a high drop off electronically or just do passive crossover like with a capacitor. I'd kinda like to do it electronically to get the experience with it a little but I dunno how much that would cost. So...

Highs: (2) Morel MDT-30 ($58/each)

It looks like I am coming along with the plan thanks to you guys and I'm learning a bit. Though to be honest, these graphs I've seen I don't really understand. :/ But again, I appreciate the help and patience guys, very much so. The next thing I need to figure out after the crossovers are decided, I am to account for the impedance. Meaning if the driver is 8 ohm, to do a passive crossover, I need to take in effect at what frequency it affects at an 8 ohm impedance, correct?