Door locks, trunk pop, remote start probs.

Ok. I am installing an alarm and a remote start on a 2002 Chrystler Sebring convertible. I already have all of the info on the car from a post in the vehicle info database( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=7&TopicID=5751&PagePosition=1#thread ). Things didn't go as planned. I wired everything up as directed. BTW, the alarm is a DesignTech First Defense Deluxe(29646), with the remote that can control 4 separate vehicles. The remote start is an Audiovox add on, not sure of the model #. As for the alarm, I programmed the remotes and started checking everything out. I have no trouble with entry points triggering the alarm(pass/driver doors, trunk and hood) and the built in shock sensor is working just fine. The parking lights work fine, as well. However, the remote start is not being activated, though I tested it and the aux output that triggers it is fine. The Power locks aren't doing anything at all, and neither is the trunk pop. I have narrowed my troubles with all of these things to be the relays, but I haven't a clue what went wrong. One idea I came up with for the trunk... The dash button for popping the trunk is a simple push-on switch with tow wires going to it. Couldn't I just tap into one of these wires for the trunk pop? I wired it as the left relay in the diagram linked above with no luck.The locks... Once again I wired this as the diagrams showed. Since the alarm has built-in lock relays, could I just set the polarity to + and put the resistors inline to the locks?I still don't know what I did wrong with the relay that goes between the AUX output and the remote start module. The output from alarm is - and so is the input. Link to relay? I will look for it as soon as I post this. It seems I just don't have a good grasp on relays yet. Thanks in advanceBeginner.

if your alarm's output is negative and your car start input requires a negative then you do not need a relay in between the two.Ruben

Innovative Sounds

Phila., Pa.

you should always use relays on resistance locks otherwise you wont get the true resistance value from a 500 ma output

OK. Still have not been able to toy with the car since my original attempt. I must have forgotten to check the E-Mail notify, this whole time I thought no-one had helped, very strange for this site, you guys are awesome. The remote start is an Auto Security Audiovox AS-9151N, packaged with an RF antenna extender(AS-9166), unused. To engage the door lock relays, should I wire the Alarm's lock outputs to be negative or positive pulse? I assume negative, just as in the Ford Probe diagram. Doing it that way will result in a positive output from the relay to the lock wire?As for the trunk. I should wire the relay as follows?:87  -Fused 12V(+)87a-BCM side of cut Trunk wire86  -Fused 12V(+)85  -To alarm negative trunk pop (-) output30  -Opposite BCM side of cut Trunk wireTwo unrelated questions. Does DesignTech have a good track record? I have had(despite my own problems due to lack of experience) good luck with installs so far. And where did the relay pic posted by 10nesne1 come from? Is this sort of thing included in OMEGA CD V2.0 "the disc"? Was considering purchasing one. As always, thanks for helping this 19 year old novice.

Concerning the switch/motor sides of the cut wire for the trunk release.... the "Switch" side would be that on the BCM side(assuming I take the wire coming downward from it).

Yes that would be correct.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA