DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor

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cntrylvr79

Silver - Posts: 582

Joined: July 02, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: October 22, 2005 at 1:18 AM / IP Logged

a 1 amp capable diode will be fine. If it's working without the diodes then so be it. You don't really need them then. It's a force of habit anytime i'm tying 2 wires together like that I alway diode isolate.

Cause I'm So white and nerdy...

First Class Certi-fried installer

sharc

Member - Posts: 30

Joined: August 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: October 22, 2005 at 11:48 AM / IP Logged

1N4000 series will work just fine. The band of the diode (cathode) should be wired facing toward the sensor.

- Jim

Design Engineer, Axcera, LLC

salaki

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: July 21, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: October 24, 2005 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged

Alarm went off 3am last night.

I will just install the diode just to be on the safe side.

Thanks again to all,

David

sharc

Member - Posts: 30

Joined: August 25, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: October 24, 2005 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged

Do you know which sensor it was that set off the alarm? Shock or proximity? Since you said the alarm went off, I assume it was the trigger line from the sensor(s) and not the warn away that was activated.

My battery backup, shock sensor and microwave detector are mounted in the center console of my '01 Blazer. There are (2) lift out storage trays (one within the other) that I can pull out from the flip up arm rest. Mounted all the way at the bottom of the center metal console strut are (4) switches, grouped in (2) pairs. Each group has a red and green rubber boot on the toggle switch. These are my sensor defeat switches. All switches up mean all sensors are connected to the brain. Throwing a green switch down disables the warn away. Throwing a red switch down disables the alarm trigger. There is a green and red switch pair for each sensor. Since both the microwave detector and shock sensor are wired together with diodes, its tough to tell which one has actually activated the alarm. By having the defeat switches, you can eliminate one or the other and find out which one is triggering the alarm. These switches are also very useful to defeat the sensor inputs if your are going to be parked in a place that is prone to setting off your alarm.

On the back of my center console, there is a factory plastic access panel (may have been used for an optional ashtray or power source) that I can remove to have access to the settings & LED's on the shock sensor. For my microwave detector, its mounted underneath the integrated cup holder in the center console. If I lift out the dual rubber cup holder insert, I can gain access to the microwave detector adjustments and LED's.

Although it's a tad more work in wiring, the switches can help you troubleshoot false alarms and give you a way to defeat them as well.

- Jim

Design Engineer

salaki

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: July 21, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: October 24, 2005 at 5:17 PM / IP Logged

Sharc,

Seems I'll be installing a "hidden" switch for the proximity too.

And will hook up my tilt w/ "trunk sensor".

I could tell which one went off but I could see that was the proximity because it happened before where there was a car passed by close to the car then the alarm went off.

I think I still have the inner proximity too high.

Thanks again,

David

dualsport

Silver - Posts: 983

Joined: September 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:37 PM / IP Logged

Are these the real article? The picture says DEI Stinger Doubleguard, but who knows. Is this another get what you pay for kind of item? For $1.20 each including shipping, they could make good party favors, albeit very strange party favors- DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor - Page 2 -- posted image.

DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor - Page 2 -- posted image.

salaki

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: July 21, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:44 PM / IP Logged

Can't really look at the pics..

But from far, looks like it.

Here's another auction for close look:

http:///.com/Directed-DEI-504-Stinger-DoubleGuard-Shock-Sensor-...

dualsport

Silver - Posts: 983

Joined: September 27, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:58 PM / IP Logged

That's a better picture- I like the transparent case.

Do they come fused like shown in the first link? The big picture shows the fuseholder, but there doesn't seem to be any in the group shot. Maybe that's an indication if it's a clone or DEI brand.

So does this unit in fact have two separate (-) outputs, one for prewarn and one for alarm? My pager uses the separate lines type of scheme, rather than the variable pulse width for differentiating prewarn vs. alarm.

salaki

Member - Posts: 20

Joined: July 21, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: October 25, 2005 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged

The reason why it has the fuse is because it doesn't come w/ alarm unit - just my assumption meaning you have to wire it intoa live constant +.

It does have blue and green as warn and trigger - Negative output.

But when it comes from factory, the Green is tapped into the blue where it only connects to the blue.

And the it only have 1 adjustment for both warn and trigger.

It's kinda hard for me to adjust but it did give you warn if you just hit it soft... then trigger if you hit it hard (the car)

KarTuneMan

Platinum - Posts: 7,056

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Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: October 30, 2005 at 12:58 AM / IP Logged

kgerry wrote:

it's a poor musician who blames his instrument.....

i've installed dozens and dozens of units with this sensor and had no problems....it's just a matter of paying attention to what you are doing.....

Read the manual....nothing listed for the "noob"..............If you do not know, you Don't know......... DEI sucks........

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