Delayed relay output?

For the Acc wire I had the relays there all along, I just tried it with/without the diodes, diff relays, etc, etc before I decided to test the wire itself for power, lol... I took the module back to the store today and they gave me another one thankfully. The RS is all working correctly now from the looks of it  so it was definately the relay on the module. At least the store was very great about switching it as they wanted to send the module back to the manufactuer to begin with...

I'm going out to try the defrost now :)

I told 'ya my luck stinks: The defrost switch doesn't pull in when I try 286 to 196, but it did flash the clear light for a split second and now the light no longer works, lol...

I think I'm going to just add another relay and do it the way you suggested, dualsport. You said D1 is fine with a 1N400x doing it this way?

Dang... this means I'll have to run another heavy gauge wire to the engine compartment & battery for the upper relay to defrost grid and power wire there 

All these wires and relays are getting tough to hide, lol...  I did make a seperate 4ga 12" lead from the postive battery to hook my power wires to from the RS and my air horns as hooking that many wires to the terminal itself was not happening (2 for the horn relays, now 6 for the RS relays!), just need to figure out where to hide that too  

It was the 186 to 175 I tried, sorry. I was reading the info off the diagram I posted with it mislabelled... I didn't pop a fuse as the switch still works when I push it closed. I think it was just bad timing with the light as I have been handling the switch a fair bit trying to figure it out, with it not in its casing :( No big deal as it was just the illumination light when the parking/headlights are on. The switch right beside it has no light from the factory for some reason, so they match now ;)

I was thinking the same thing about the power to the defrost grid instead of running another wire, so will do it that way :)

I did fuse all the wires to the main feed wire I made & it's right beside the battey.

Oh, btw, the defrost does work in ACC from the factory (weird!)

The bulb is burned out, I must have bumped it one too many times while it was out ;)

I did try both off and in the ACC position, and no go :(

I don't believe the blower works iirc, but the wipers do ;)

I've spent the past 1 1/2 hours trying to find my diodes, I'll have to pick some more up tomorrow I guess :( I'll find them right when I get home from buying more, lol...

ps: don't know what type of bulb to get either, but might try finding one while the switch is not installed all the way yet...

hmm... finally got it together today. It works but there seems to be a few quirks for some reason... If I use the factory power wire (175, the heavy one) for the constant 12V (30 on K2) it starts with the remote, then when I hit the button to latch the relay, it latches for about 15-20 seconds then sounds like it popped a fuse, the heater shuts off for a second or two, but the relay 'unlatches' and the heater comes back on... no fuse blown... and I can repeat it if I hit the button again...

I then tried running a fused 12V wire right from the battery as I figured "ok, its drawing to much current through the acc wires on the remote starter even thou I have them relay driven for some reason!!??" When I tried it this way, it latches the relay but when you shut the car off via remote etc, it stays latched on and I'm sure if I left it, it would obviously kill the battery pretty quick with power to the defrost and the car off!!!

ps: I did fix the bulb thou, found one at Radio Shack that was almost identical :)