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Delayed relay output?


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icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  

For the Acc wire I had the relays there all along, I just tried it with/without the diodes, diff relays, etc, etc before I decided to test the wire itself for power, lol... I took the module back to the store today and they gave me another one thankfully. The RS is all working correctly now from the looks of it Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image. so it was definately the relay on the module. At least the store was very great about switching it as they wanted to send the module back to the manufactuer to begin with...

I'm going out to try the defrost now :)

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged  

I told 'ya my luck stinks: The defrost switch doesn't pull in when I try 286 to 196, but it did flash the clear light for a split second and now the light no longer works, lol...

I think I'm going to just add another relay and do it the way you suggested, dualsport. You said D1 is fine with a 1N400x doing it this way?

Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image.

Dang... this means I'll have to run another heavy gauge wire to the engine compartment & battery for the upper relay to defrost grid and power wire there Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image.

All these wires and relays are getting tough to hide, lol...  I did make a seperate 4ga 12" lead from the postive battery to hook my power wires to from the RS and my air horns as hooking that many wires to the terminal itself was not happening (2 for the horn relays, now 6 for the RS relays!), just need to figure out where to hide that too  Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image.

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 6:13 PM / IP Logged  
Are you referring to your diagram from November 11, 2005 3:54 AM when you say 286 to 196?
Or do you mean you connected 296 to 186?
Think you were supposed to try 186 to 175; if you connected to 296, that might have been a light gauge supply that you connected to the high load defroster grid. Check if you still have 12V on it in ACC/Run, hopefully it's just a fuse.
Be sure to fuse all the supply wires you made from your 4ga 12" feed- as close to the battery as practical.
If you can do a good splice, you should be able to use the existing wires at the switch instead of running another feed from the battery; that might be a better way to go since it's already fused properly.
You should be able to draw all the power you need from that B(175) line, which is what the original switch is using.
I wouldn't give up on using the OEM defrost timer just yet, check again if it'll pull in when you connect 186 to 175, if you haven't already. If it does pull in, that's a easier solution.
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged  

It was the 186 to 175 I tried, sorry. I was reading the info off the diagram I posted with it mislabelled... I didn't pop a fuse as the switch still works when I push it closed. I think it was just bad timing with the light as I have been handling the switch a fair bit trying to figure it out, with it not in its casing :( No big deal as it was just the illumination light when the parking/headlights are on. The switch right beside it has no light from the factory for some reason, so they match now ;)

I was thinking the same thing about the power to the defrost grid instead of running another wire, so will do it that way :)

I did fuse all the wires to the main feed wire I made & it's right beside the battey.

Oh, btw, the defrost does work in ACC from the factory (weird!)

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  
I don't think you could have done anything electrically to the instrument panel illumination bulb since it just gets straight 12V, without any limiting resistance.
Maybe it got jarred while you were handling it and broke the filament? Just check it with your DMM to see if it's open; shouldn't be too hard to solder in a replacement if that's what happened.
Now I'm wondering, did you have the OEM switch plugged in the car and in the ACCY position when you tried jumpering the 186 to 175? It likely needs power from that other ACC line (296) for it to work, so you have to have it all plugged in and key in ACC position before you try it.
Does seem odd that it's set up so that you can sit there and defrost the windows with the engine off. Does your heater blower fan and wipers work in ACC position too?
icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 9:32 PM / IP Logged  

The bulb is burned out, I must have bumped it one too many times while it was out ;)

I did try both off and in the ACC position, and no go :(

I don't believe the blower works iirc, but the wipers do ;)

I've spent the past 1 1/2 hours trying to find my diodes, I'll have to pick some more up tomorrow I guess :( I'll find them right when I get home from buying more, lol...

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2005 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged  

ps: don't know what type of bulb to get either, but might try finding one while the switch is not installed all the way yet...

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 14, 2005 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged  

hmm... finally got it together today. It works but there seems to be a few quirks for some reason... If I use the factory power wire (175, the heavy one) for the constant 12V (30 on K2) it starts with the remote, then when I hit the button to latch the relay, it latches for about 15-20 seconds then sounds like it popped a fuse, the heater shuts off for a second or two, but the relay 'unlatches' and the heater comes back on... no fuse blown... and I can repeat it if I hit the button again...

I then tried running a fused 12V wire right from the battery as I figured "ok, its drawing to much current through the acc wires on the remote starter even thou I have them relay driven for some reason!!??" When I tried it this way, it latches the relay but when you shut the car off via remote etc, it stays latched on and I'm sure if I left it, it would obviously kill the battery pretty quick with power to the defrost and the car off!!!

Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image. Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image. Delayed relay output? - Page 7 -- posted image.

icarus_icarus 
Copper - Posts: 229
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 14, 2005 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  

ps: I did fix the bulb thou, found one at Radio Shack that was almost identical :)

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 14, 2005 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged  
Can you check the voltages on K1-30 and K1-86 while you have it in RS mode? I wouldn't expect the voltage to drop on the heavy wire, since that's the same wire used normally.
Is the Ground while RS signal staying low throughout the start cycle, or does it possibly only go low for a short time while actually cranking?
Also, make sure the Ground While RS goes away when you turn off the RS; the relay shouldn't remain latched if the coil ground is removed.
Maybe that Ground while RS signal isn't set up the way we're expecting; grounded thoughout the RS period, and then open again when disabled. If it doesn't do that, then the scheme won't work.
There's not much to the circuit, so it should work if you have a good connection to wires.
Can you try it with the OEM defrost switch unplugged, to make sure it's not what's causing the click/pop you hear after 15 sec?
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