Arctic Start/Compustar 2W900FMAS Problem

I have a Arctic Start/Compustar RT2W900FMAS and was wondering if someone could help me out with a couple problem I'm having with it. I've installed the majority of it and everything works except that if the alarm is armed, and I try to remote start it will attempt to start 3 times and then nothing. It doesn't give me any parking light flash to signal a problem so I don't know what is wrong. If the car isn't armed it will start fine, parking lights work also. I've made my own bypass for the passlock and that works fine. I had it in a previous unit and had no problems. Now another thing that is confusing is it's in a 98 Pontiac Sunfire 2 door and I have negative pulse door locks. With the unit it has 2 wires a blue wire that is the (+) lock output that doubles as a (-) unlock output. Then there is a blue/black wire that is (-)lock output and doubles as a (+) unlock output. How it can double as both I have no idea. Can someone enlighten me. I only have the blue wire hooked I think, and the door locks and everything work. What am I suppose to do with the other wire coming off the brain. Also, if I remote start the car and use the key and open my door the car continues to run. It should shut off to my understanding. The door triggers work as if I query it when my door is open/closed it will show it. So if anybody can help me out, I would appreciate it. Thanks

starter kill relay is backwards

Thank you I will look into that. Do you know anything about the other problems that I can check? I noticed during programming options there is a option where it will lock the doors when you start your car with a key and then unlock when you take the key out of the ignition. It will send the unlock pulse, but not the lock.

Ok so my car wires are power lock = light blue, and power unlock = white. The brain is Blue = + lock output - unlock output and the blue/black = - lock output and + unlock output. I've connected the blue wire from the brain to my light blue, and the blue/black wire to my white wire. The thing I don't get is my doors work fine. When I arm the alarm the doors lock, disarm and doors unlock. So the problem might be elsewhere but I do have the IGN controller door locks turned on in programming, and it will only unlock doors upon taking key out of ignition. It won't lock the doors when starting. Will the starter kill hooked up backwards affect opening the door and not having it kill on a remote start? Opening the hood will kill it.

For the ignition controlled door locks, do you have to put the car in gear before the doors lock? I can't figure out why it won't lock, but it will send the unlock pulse when I turn the car off and take the key out.

There are a couple of things here that doesn't make sense. First off, you didn't tell us if this was a manual or automatic vehicle. From what you wrote so far, it seems that it's an automatic, but you mentioned something about the car keeps running after you take the key out ? If you engaged the TURBO mode the vehicle will stay running all the time after you remove the key from the key cylinder. If this is a manual, then you have to go through a sequence in order for you to get into ready mode for the remote starter to work after you leave the vehicle. With the door locks, I have never seen a Compustar unit with alternating polarity doors locks before. This must be new in the last couple of months. Regardless, you MAY need relays for the Sunfire if they work intermittently and the IGN controlled door locks ( if manal transmission ) will work when you start the vehicle with the key & release the hand brake.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Sorry for the confusion. Ok the car is automatic. The bit about the car running after taking the key out I meant that the car does shut off but there is a feature for ignition controlled door locks. So you know you start the car with a key and it will lock the doors, and when you turn the car off (which it does just fine) and take the key out of the ignition it will unlock the doors. The problem is it will unlock them but it won't lock them. Does that make sense? Now with the door locks I wired in 2 relays and plugged one of the wires from the brain into there. My lock/arm and unlock/disarm work perfectly fine when I push the button 1 on the remote. So I'm pretty sure they are hooked up fine, but I just can't figure out the problem above. It won't send the pulse for lock, but yet it will if I push the button. I'm not sure if the compustar has alternating polarity locks. But reading it thats what it comes accross as to me. I don't see how it can double as both, that does not make any sense to me. I only have the blue wire (I think) hooked up right now, I didn't think I needed the other as like I say the door locks and unlocks just fine with the remote. I've talked to 3 different shop installers and after they looked at it they all said the same thing. "Thats why we don't carry compustar". Yeah.. ok. But this is what it says word for word about the 2 wires. Connector 4 Pin # 4 Blue wire: This wire is the (+) lock output that doubles as a (-) unlock output. Connector 4 Pin # 5 Blue/Black wire: This wire is the (-) lock output that doubles as a (+) unlock output. I hope all this makes sense... probably not. Sorry for rambling.

Here's 2 cents. Crimestopper alarms use dual polarity lock and unlock. When a (-) pulse is sent to one wire, a (+) pulse is sent to the other. That way one wire is (+)lock, (-) unlock, and the other is (+) unlock, (-) lock. They also include 2 diodes that you MUST install per your application. If you want to see a diagram go to crimestopper's website. Select "techweb", then "manuals", and choose CS2016FM install manual under "alarms" and go to page 12. If you hooked up the lock/unlock wires without diodes, you could burn something out--probably your alarm. So, yes, dual polarity locks do exist, I can attest, on at least one manufacturer. Will this help your problem? I don't know. If you're only using one wire from your Compustar to control 2 relays you only have one lock function wire being used. I can't imagine how it would work the way it's supposed to unless you have your one wire sending a (+) pulse to one relay on lock and (-) pulse to the other relay on unlock and you've got the relays wired to go along with that. That could cause issues that I get a headache just thinking about. Check out the crimestopper diagram. Make sure of what kind of locks your car has. You said earlier they're negative, but posts on this site say they can only be either positive (OEM keyless entry) or 5-wire (No OEM keyless). Fix your wiring so that it's right--you shouldn't need relays on negative or positive polarity door locks from a dual polarity alarm system, so don't complicate things if you don't have to. If you have 5-wire power locks, wire it the way it shows here.   Get it wired the way Compustar meant for it to be and then chase down the gremlins if they still exist. Often, whey you get it wired the way the manufacturer recommends, they go away. If you still have problems use a DMM to test you lock wire outputs and make sure they're doing what they're supposed to. Don't use a test light. Okay, maybe that's more like a dollar than 2 cents. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the help. Ok after doing some looking into about the lock type it seems I have a positive trigger type A system. So I can remove the two relays I have in there right? Good since thats just extra clutter I don't need. So I'm thinkin I connect the power lock (light blue) wire from my car to the blue wire (+) lock output / (-) unlock output on the brain? And then connect the power unlock (white) from the car to the blue/black (-) lock output / (+) unlock output on the brain. In that case do I need to diode isolate them like in that crimestoppers diagram? That makes sense to me, but the bit about each wire doubles as opposite polarity unlock output doesn't make any sense.