Arctic Start/Compustar 2W900FMAS Problem

Yes, I would definitely diode isolate them, stripe of the diodes pointing AWAY from the alarm brain. As far as that design making any sense, I only installs them--I don't design them.

Well I was just saying that the crimestopper diagram you pointed me to makes more sense then the compustar. They don't even give you a diagram. Thanks for the link. I just looked up another wiring diagram for my car (here on 12 volt) and it says the power unlock is reverse polarity. But 2 others have both said positive trigger type A for keyless entry and mention nothing about a reverse polarity. Is there a way to check for sure which it is? I will pick up some diodes and isolate them as such. I'll remove the relays and try to wire them up like I described, and hopefully it will work. I think I tried it once but without the diodes, but that would explain why it didn't work right? Thanks for your help so far.

Based on your questions and the last post I think you'd be better off spending a little time triple checking your alarm outputs and car locks. If a Compustar dealer questions your alarm take the time to verify with a meter--with no wires hooked up--that the outputs of your blue and blue/black wires are what you say your manual says they are. As far as checking what type of lock system you have you might find this link in "the12volt" helpful. You've heard the old saying "measure twice, cut once". Well, checking your wires carefully and being sure of what you're hooking up sure beats trial and error and burning something out.

Well the unit is a Arctic Start RT2W900FMAS, which is the same thing as the compustar. As for the dual polarity locks I'm just quoting what it says in the manual. Wouldn't you guys say thats what it means by the two wires doubling as a different output? Natsys, I'm not sure what you mean why testing the outputs of the blue and blue/black wires of the unit. If I don't have any wires hooked up what am I testing for exactly? As I said earlier when I push button one on the remote to arm/lock the car the doors do indeed lock. And disarming them unlocks them as well. From that standpoint it works perfectly fine... it's just when I try to use the ign controller door locks that the lock system goes a little screwy. But I will take the relays out and try to hook them up differently and see what happens. I appreciate your help so far guys, thanks.

Okay, here's another one: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you want to check your wires for positive polarity, disconnect the blue and blue/black wires from the alarm. Set your digital multimeter to volts and hookup the black probe to ground, and the red probe of the multimeter to the blue wire of the alarm. Press Lock on your remote and you should see the meter register positive voltage momentarily. Maybe not quite 12 volts, but something signifigant. Move the red probe to the blue/black wire and repeat while pressing unlock. Be sure to protect the wire you're not testing from touching another bare wire or ground--tape the end if you have to. If you get positive voltage the alarm has positive polarity locks, which is what you think you need, so proceed to wire it up directly. Use the diodes. They're cheap and won't hurt--can only help. To check negative polarity I believe the test is similar except that you put your red probe on a known 12 volt positive source and connect your black probe to the lock/unlock wires while pressing lock and unlock on the remote. You might want to confirm this before trying it just to make sure. Nobody is going to say for sure "Yeah, go ahead and do it this way!" when we can't see the product or exactly how it's wired. Personally, I can only try to offer suggestions based on what you tell us, and what I've encountered. It's your car and your alarm and ultimately, your success or failure. The best way to succeed is be as sure as you can be before hooking up the wires. I've been quite lucky just hooking up wires, and I've seen an electronics engineer burn out his (alarm) brain by doing it wrong. Your best friend can be your multimeter--make it work for you. Also, most local electronics shops don't offer help. One told my brother in law once "We don't give lessons". In other words, hire him to do it or don't bug him with it. Here you get Pro's who install these things all day long in all kinds of vehicles. If they offer advice I give it serious weight. You can't get this anywhere else that I know of.

Well turns out I just had 2 wires crossed, so thats my own fault. So now my door locks and ign controlled door locks work fine. Thanks for the help, a lot. But I took a look at the starter relay problem in my first post. It was suggested that I had it hooked up backwards but it is hooked up right. Yellow is going to starter and yellow/black is going to key side. Bypass has to be fine casue it will remote start when disarmed, and it will start with the key. It will not start by remote when the car is armed. Any ideas?

Did some further testing, if I lock the doors manually by switch the car will RS fine. Even if the door is open it will start. Hood open it won't start but thats suppose to happen. It is just when I arm/lock the doors by the remote that the car will attempt to start 3 times and fail. I don't have my status output wire hooked up, but I don't think I need it. The 2nd accessory isn't hooked up and I don't need that. Purple wire is connected to green wire from CN 1, and blue wire hooked up to 2nd ignition. I don't get it. What changes in the starting when the car is armed? It starts fine disarmed but as soon as I arm it no go.

What bypass module did you use for your install ?Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I made one with some resistors and breadboard. It worked fine in my previous alarm/starter.