Arctic Start/Compustar 2W900FMAS Problem

Did you get the resistance within 2% tolerance ??Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I'm pretty sure it was, I made it a couple years ago so I can't be 100% certain. Maybe I should just go buy a bypass, I don't know. But if it was the bypass, wouldn't it not remote start period? Like why is it just doing it when the alarm is armed.

Does the starter crank when it attempts 3 remote starts but won't start? Or does it just turn on the parking lights and accessories? My first remote start I installed the "start" wire from the remote start unit on the key side of my starter kill relay. Then when I armed the alarm it cut out all starting--even my remote starter! Had to move the start wire from the remote starter to the "starter" side of the starter kill relay. It's a rookie mistake but I was a rookie. If the starter cranks this is not your problem.

It will crank but it won't start up. Could it be my bypass? Even though it starts fine without the alarm armed? I can buy a 556L at a local shop here, I'm just out of ideas.

interfire wrote: It will crank but it won't start up. Could it be my bypass? Even though it starts fine without the alarm armed? I can buy a 556L at a local shop here, I'm just out of ideas.

I can't think of anything other than your Starter Kill Relay is backwards or you have the starter output on before the starter kill instead of afterwards.  But if it is a Compustar pience, the starter kill/starter wire should be prewired and the starter wire should be fine. 

Sounds like it has to be hooked up backwards.  Test the wires to be absolutely sure you got the Key side and starter side right, then test the outputs from the unit to make sure it is right.  87a should go to starter and 30 should go to KEY.

Well I'll take another look at the starter kill, but like you mentioned it is prewired and the yellow and yellow/black wires are hooked up right. I've checked that like 50 times. I have no idea... I'm sure something is hooked up wrong, or probably just something stupid... maybe it's my bypass. Can someone answer what changed when the car is armed? I mean if it remote starts without it being armed just fine shouldn't that eliminate the bypass, starter kill, and such?

Should I try a different bypass? Or is that even the problem, I don't think it is.

I honestly haven't done a GM vehicle, but on Hondas, Toyotas, etc. that I have done, if the bypass isn't activated it will crank, but not start. How do you activate your bypass? The only ones I've dealt with require the activation wire from the bypass to be hooked up to a wire that provides a ground when you call for a remote start. If that's how it is you might try this: Remove the wire from your bypass that needs ground to work and directly ground it to a good known ground. Then test the bypass by remote starting with the alarm armed, disarmed, doors open, doors closed, standing on your head......just kidding. If the car remote starts in all conditions the groundout wire that you're using to activate the bypass isn't doing the job, may not be the right wire, or could possibly even be overloaded (did you tie in your starter kill to this wire? If you did is the starter kill and the bypass diode isolated?). If it continues to have problems starting it would appear you have a problem with your homemade bypass.

Well the bypass is always on since it is just some resistors done up and I have it hooked off the starter line so it goes through it first. I'll try testing it like you mentioned and see if that shows up anything. I picked up a DEI 556LW bypass this afternoon and I'll try that and see if that does anything. Is this a good bypass? Worth the 60 cdn I paid for it? You mentioned using a diode to isolate the bypass, should I be using them with this 556LW? If so where should I put em? Thanks

Not for nothing, but Ohio Mike has been saying your starter kill relay is the culprit and he may be on to something. If you have your bypass wired up all the time (which I'm sure you know defeats the purpose of your factory anti-theft system) where do you tap the starter for the power? If you tap it on the wrong side of the starter kill relay it won't get power during a remote start when the alarm is ARMED. It will get power when the alarm is UNARMED. Your tap has got to be on the starter side of the relay where you tie in your start wire from the RS unit. Personally, I don't recommend this method, but it could possibly be the source of your trouble. If you choose to keep your bypass post some detail on how you wired it up. I'm sure there's a better way that won't compromise your car's security. If you go to the DEI unit (I have abosolutely no experience with it so I can't say good or bad on it) make sure you wire it according to the instructions. If you use more than one accessory off your alarms' groundout when starting wire, put one diode in line of each accessory's grounding actuator wire, with the stripe side towards the brain of the alarm. For a diagram see www.crimestopper.com, "techweb", "manuals", and select the RS900 VII, page 4.