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port tuning


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youngone 
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Joined: September 28, 2005
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Posted: January 26, 2006 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged  
hey stevdart are you going to build a TL box for your house. what subs are you going to run. sorry to be off topic. i read that you realy know what you are doing when it comes to the tl boxes.
and for hondaboy gust post those subs and specs.
Aaron
Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 26, 2006 at 9:40 PM / IP Logged  
Ahh, you heard wrong, young Aaron.  I've never attempted a TL box.  I'm working on a new (and improved!) 7.1 home theater setup (also used for parties, listening to jazz, Dillinger, etc...it has to do everything).  The .1 part, the sub, is still the only store-bought unit in the system.  Wouldya figure?
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
hondaboy_1991 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: October 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 26, 2006 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  
Hell naw i built 3 seald boxs already and like the sq, had a bandpass and that didn't last long (now i know why you don't buy boxs from best buy) but all that was some time ago now im working on my 3rd ported box cause i built the first one to the recommended specs with 4" round port and the other one was smaller with sloted vent tune to 33Hz and i didn't like the way they sound.  Anyway the one im building now is 4 cubic feet with the speaker and port volume already subtracted and i was thinking about tuning it to 33Hz but i know its gonna be between 30-40.  Im looking for more spl but basicly im tired of hearing it im trying to feel it but these cheap ass speaker anit doin it for me.  2 12" sony xplode XS-L122P5 (i know i need to be slaped!)   d (mm)=250  Rdc=3.3  Fs=24.8  Qts=0.37  Qes=0.39  Qms=7.02  Vas(Lit.)=86.7  Mms=162.1  Lvc=1.1  Xmax(mm)=5.7  Bl=14.1  Port Vol. recommended =0.82 cubic feet
stevdart 
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Posted: January 27, 2006 at 8:35 AM / IP Logged  

Here's a Unibox workup for two of these subs wired in parallel (2 ohm load):

Assumptions:  the amplifier is producing 700 watts for this pair of subs;  the box as you have already built it will have a net airspace of 3.88 cu ft after accounting for the slotted port dimensions I will give you;  you are willing to give up the round port and change to a slotted opening.

parameters link on this page

I inputted the parameters as given and found Sd by looking to see that the Mms and Bl matched the given specs.  Then I connected two drivers in parallel in the program.  You can indeed obtain a much higher SPL in a vented box than a sealed, and as long as the tuning frequency doesn't go below about 40 Hz the port length remains reasonable.  This box wants a larger port opening than you can achieve with a 4" round port;  the round diameter needed is 7.87".  So this calls for a slotted port.  The equivalent sq inches of opening is 48.6" so I recommend designing the slot to be 4" X 12".  You can change the slot opening to fit your box as long as it maintains a 48 square inch opening area.  The length of the port will depend on the desired tuning frequency.

Either of the following two charts shows good output for rap, with box tuning shown first at 45 Hz and second at 40 Hz:

  • With box volume for 2 subs at 3.88 cu ft net and slot port  4" X 12".  This Fb of 45 is obtained by using a port length of 10.75"

vb_response_xplod_xs-l122p5atfb45hz.gif

  • This next one increases the port length to 15" to yield a tuning freq of 40 Hz

vb_response_xplod_xs-l122p5atfb40hz.gif

Tuning to a lower freq than that yields less SPL and results in (possibly) unmanageable port lengths.  The workups as shown assume a well-built box of rigid structure, and a bit of polyfil stuffing glued to the walls (but not within or impeding the opening of the port structure).  The end of the port inside the box must be at least 4" away from any part of the structure and the port itself can be elbowed to fit inside the box if necessary.  Apply a subsonic filter at about 30 Hz to 35 Hz if possible.  As long as you give these enough clean power they should be quite loud enough for you.

Take two Excedrin and let us know how it turns out.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
hondaboy_1991 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: October 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 27, 2006 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged  
The new box im building is using an vent in the center 12' tall 4' wide and the speaker gonna see 4 cubic feet of volume when they are in thats why im trying to find out what the port tuning gonna be so i know how long the port will be.  Or do you think that will be to large for these subs?  So you say i should tune to 40 or 45 Hz then.
stevdart 
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Posted: January 27, 2006 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged  

12 x 4 slot port is great, just what I was figuring on.  Put in some extra bracing in that box that will take up approx. 1/10 cu ft to get the net air volume down to about 3.9 and use one of the port lengths I spec'd above.  Tuning 40 to 45 is optimum for these subs and will work very well for bass-heavy rap.  The port length would grow substantially longer trying to tune to a lower freq and meanwhile the SPL falls.  The little bit of low end extension gained from this is not at all worth it.  So yeah, 40 to 45 is my final answer.

In fact, look at those charts again.  The F3 shown is the -3db level and is quite good at 33 to 36 Hz.

From the port lengths I showed above...10 3/4" and 15" for the respective Fb's...you can see that any length between and including those will result in a tuning freq between 40 and 45 Hz.  Use whatever length works best to displace the right amount of air space.  (The port air space is not counted with the 3.9 cu ft needed for the subs).  So you have to add and subtract back and forth a few times, add extra bracing if you need more adjustments, etc.

.......oh hell I read your post again about the box volume.  I see that the port structure will take up some of that 4 cu ft air space.  I had thought that you had already displaced some air with whatever port size you were working on....I'll look it over again.  But I'll note right now that putting the port against a side wall will save a little bit of volume because you only have to add one MDF baffle for the port side....but I'll look at it with the port centered per your design.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
hondaboy_1991 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: October 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 27, 2006 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah i know i subtracted it and im gonna dubble layer half inch mdf and put alot of bracing in there, so ill tune between 40 and 45 then.  Thanks for the help for real man.
stevdart 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 27, 2006 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  

I'm not really following you as far as how much volume this box is going to end up with...but here is what I came up with.  For a box that when empty except for the two subs has an internal volume of 4 cu ft :  to get a tuning freq of 40 Hz the port needs to be 4" X 12" X 18.3".  That port structure, if you figure 3/4" wall on each side, is 5.5" wide and 12" tall from bottom to top of the box.  The total displacement of this port is .698 cu ft.  Deducted from 4 cu ft leaves net air volume of 3.35 cu ft, or 95 liters.  Here is what the output would look like:

vb_response_xplod_xs-l122p5at40hzfb18long.gif

When I want to do quick and easy calculations... and you have to do this repeatedly while you're finding box net air volume vs. what the port takes up....I use the box rectangle calculator on this site.  https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp  I usually just figure in the side walls' thickness and then put 0 in for thickness when I use that calculator.  But here's the thing with your final build:  just keep in mind that you have to add a little length to the port if the box air volume gets smaller, and conversely you have to subtract a little port length if you end up with more net air volume than the 3.35 that I arrived at here for an 18" long port.  But you got the idea of the relative play in port lengths you have in order to keep the Fb at around 40.  Shorten the port length by 3 or 4 inches to get it closer to 45 Hz.

.....and glad to help, you're welcome.  Keeps me up on it so I don't stress out too much when I do these for my own projects.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
hondaboy_1991 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: October 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 27, 2006 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah i understand what you are saying and im sorry i got a real bad way of explaining things cause sometimes ill read what i just wrote and i cant even understand it.  Im gonna make sure that when the port and the subs are in there that the box is going to equal up to 4 cubic feet, so its gonna be built bigger to accept there volume and still be 4 cubic feet.
hondaboy_1991 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: October 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 27, 2006 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
What do you think the subs volume together would be around so i know how much to add for cause i might be adding to much?
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