2006 Scion xB alarm

Can someone please give me a wiring diagram for the 2006 Scion xB.  I found for the 2005 but I am not sure if it the same.  I am also looking for interconnect harnesses so that I can simply plug alarm wiring into the car without soldering any wiring on the car.  I have looked all over the net for this but with no luck.  If anyone could tell me where I could possibly find interconnect harnesses I would be in your debt.  Otherwise the wiring diagram will do. 

It's exactly the same as an 05.....Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Hello all!  I just finished studying the installation instructions for my Crime Guard 533i4 and I would like a little bit of clarification for my car's wire systems.  Now, bear with me because a couple of these questions may have obvious answers but I just want to verify before I start splicing into my factory wiring.  First off, after studying the wiring diaram, that I found on this site, I am assuming that the door trigger is a negative door trigger.  Is this a correct assumption?  Also, regarding the door lock system, I am assuming that my xB has a 3 wire negative system.  Is this also a correct assumption?  My last question is regarding the door locking mechanism.  I really want to keep the driver's side priority unlock.  Out of the factory my xB has a keyless entry system with driver's priority unlock.  Do I have to worry about extra hardware to keep this function with my new alarm or is this function still kept with installation of the new alarm?  I assume that the driver's side priority unlock will still be available with the new alarm installed since the vehicle is wired with this function on the factory keyless entry.  Is this also a correct assumption?

Yes, all three assumptions are correct. --The door trigger wire will test as a ground when the door is open. Be sure to try at least two different doors----you want the all-door wire; not just the driver's doorpin. --Yes, to trigger the doorlocks, all you need are the negative outputs from the alarm; no extra relays would be required. --The correct doorlock wires will test as a ground when you turn the key in the driver's door. (There are two more wires that test as ground while operating the rocker switch on the door panel; don't use those.) When the unlock wire receives one pulse from your alarm, only the driver's door will unlock. If it receive's a second pulse soon afterward, the passenger doors will unlock. If your alarm has separate outputs for first-unlock and second-unlock, connect them BOTH to the car's unlock wire. If your alarm has only one unlock output, just hook it up. If you press the alarm's unlock button repeatedly, you should be able to get all the doors to unlock on the second press.

I am planning on installing a window roll up module with my alarm.  I want it to roll up the windows when the alarm is armed.  So I know that I have to attach it to my negative output when armed wire.  This wire is also used for the starter kill.  I was told taht I should put a diode on each wire.  The wire for the window roll up module and the wire for the starter kill.  On each diode I was told to have the cathode face the alarm.  Is this even necessary considering that each wire, starter kill and window roll up, are essentially sensor wires waiting for a negative feed?  I can't see any situation in which there would be a back feed to the alarm brain from either wire.  Please elaborate if this is true.  Also another quick question.  Is it ok to splice the constant 12v wire for the window module to the alarm constant 12v?  Thank you.

Does anyone have an answer for me?  I am planning in the install this weekend so a reply soon would be much appreciated.

u only need one dioade......negitive side towards the alarm.Where theres is a wire there's a way.

If both of the devices read 12V on their inputs when in standby (you can measure it with a DMM), then you probably can do without the diode, but if for instance the window rollup module shows 5V while the relay shows 12V, adding a diode to the window rollup module side would prevent the 12V from the relay from getting to the window module. Also might be a voltage spike from the relay when it shuts off, which may or may not bother the window module.Most likely the window module input would be designed to handle 12V, but it's only a few cents for the diode, so you may as well add it in for the extra protection. You won't need the diode for the starter kill relay, just the window module.The window module probably draws very little current, so you should be able to connect to the alarm power input line. Only possible drawback might be if there were some problem with the module and it overdraws the circuit, which could blow the alarm fuse and disable it- but that's unlikely enough that I wouldn't worry about it.

Ok, another question...   After studying and matching wires from my alarm and my car's wiring diagram I noticed something.  The ignition and the starter wires are the same color on the same harness for the xB.  Are they the same wire?  If so where do I attach the ignition input for my alarm and where do I attach the starter kill?