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Avic- N2 Having to Ground Rca's?

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Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 15, 2006 at 11:18 PM / IP Logged  
If its that bad, then yes, the isolator won't help - most likely. Sounds evil, these internal fuses...
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: May 09, 2005
Posted: March 22, 2006 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
This all sounds very weird to me. From what I understand one of the most common sources of noise is a shared ground from the power suppply in the amp and the reference with the RCA's (I might not have my terminology right).  A ground loop isolator eliminates this by using a transformer with a 1:1 winding so only the AC signal gets through.  (again I'm not posisitve but I can PM someone who can probably do better).  I am especially bothered by taking components off the circut board and shorting the connections(replacing them maybe, but shorting them out??? no.).
Copper - Posts: 47
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 28, 2006 at 5:21 PM / IP Logged  
I m having the same problem and tried everything i could think of.  The only progress i got was by grounding the rca's but it did not get rid of the noise 100%.  I checked the resistance of the rca ground fuse and got nothing, infinite resistance.  is theat directly related and can i assume i found the problem?
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 29, 2006 at 2:22 AM / IP Logged  
Yup.  If you don't have a replacement fuse and you have decent soldering abilities, just use a single strand of copper wire taken from some speaker wire and jumper across the fuse.  /////Before you use this though, check your work by verifying that you are on the right component./////  Do this by putting one lead of your ohm meter on the shield of any RCA jack on the rear of the unit and place the other lead on either side of the component you believe is the fuse.  One side should read real close to 0 ohms.   the other side of the suspect component should read 0 ohms from the metal chassis to the component.  Then you know you are right on the money on finding the open fuse. If you cannot get a low ohm reading on either side of the component, check other suspect components and burnt circuit traces instead.
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