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arrow12 
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Posted: February 14, 2006 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged  

An amplifier's RMS rating can exceed the speakers RMS rating IF YOU SET THE GAIN CORRECTLY.  If you set the gain incorrectly, then you could run into some real, real serious problems.  It's all about setting the gain right.  This can sometimes be a good thing because you wok the amp less, but you MUST know what you are doing.

That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
onedonut16 
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Joined: February 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 2:11 AM / IP Logged  
I understand and know how to set gains, and I also understand the reasoning behind having extra power so that your amp doesn't get overworked. I simply don't understand why you need that kind of excess.          
Onedonut16
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geepherder 
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Posted: February 15, 2006 at 6:26 AM / IP Logged  
I always recommend using an amp to power components, but running an amp capable of 150 watts or more per channel is just not necessary.  Arrow12 is correct in the sense that it's usually possible to limit the power that an amplifier produces with the gain control.  You'll need a multimeter and some test tones.
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stevdart 
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Posted: February 15, 2006 at 7:14 AM / IP Logged  

wrote:
Also can someone explain to me why some people thinks that it is neccessary to run 150-200 watts to separates. At that volume i would think that the experience would be more painful than enjoyable. Just Curious

150 watts is just +3 db from 75 watts.  It depends on the overall efficiency of the system, the installation itself, the specific vehicle, and a lot of other things to be able to tell if this increase in volume would be painful.  The benefit, though, would be that you're not pushing your gear to the point of clipping (turning the volume all the way up to the "magic number") when you want to be loud.  You could keep the volume knob down just a bit.

And by driving 150-watt-rated speakers with 75 watts and less, you'll be staying well away from the speakers' thermal handling capacity.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
kopeah 
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Joined: February 01, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  
Well the speaker is a 250W speaker that's why I was asking for 100W x 2 or 150W x 2. I've been looking at xtant per recommendation by onedonut16 and they do looks really good. One of my friend also recommended me to zed audio which sounds really good and clear. I guess I will have to decide on which amp to buy by this weekend .. :)
Right now I have three on my list to thing about and they are Xtant, DLS, and Zed Audio.
forbidden 
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: February 15, 2006 at 1:55 PM / IP Logged  
I would ensure that Eclipse and Zapco are added to this short list, especially the upper end Zapco amps.
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kfr01 
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Posted: February 15, 2006 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged  

I'm going to recommend

Eclipse Premium Digital Amplifier Series;

Altomobile class d amplifiers; and

Xtant 1.1i + Xtant class d subwoofer amplifier.

I'm incredibly convinced that full range class d or t amplifiers are the future of car audio.  While these brands aren't the cheapest, the money saved by not having to upgrade your alternator, wiring, and other power system components is great.  High efficiency low heat designs were made for car audio.

Prior to moving to the Xtant 1.1i mono blocks for my front channels, I was bi-amping my front components with a class ab Xtant.  I was bridging an Xtant class ab 2-channel amplifer to my subwoofer.  Car batteries didn't last quite as long as I would have liked them to and the sound seemed as if the dynamics were pulling back ever so slightly when I turned the volume up.  Moving to class d not only eleviated all these issues; I now feel no need to upgrade my power system, but it also gave me some great separation and added some great midbass tightness.  The highs are slightly brighter with the 1.1i than with my old ab, but overall I am much happier with an all class d system than my old class ab rig. 

btw:  Onedonut:  impressive system list. 

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
boulderguy 
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Posted: February 15, 2006 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged  

While we're on the topic, some brands that were once respectable but I'm unsure of now -

Soundstream, PG, PPI, Xtant, HiFonics

Have all these guys gone the route of RF or still making the good stuff?

kfr01 
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Posted: February 15, 2006 at 11:21 PM / IP Logged  

I've had nothing but a great experience with Xtant.  I've owned 6 Xtant amps in two years.  No problems, great sound. 

I hear they don't hold up to SPL abuse.  They weren't designed to be SPL amplifiers.  The power supplies are regulated more tightly than your average SPL amp.  They are well built, but aren't ready to be in a car with very high sound pressure levels.  This is fine with me, because I couldn't give a rats ass about SPL.

The Xtant 1.1i received good reviews.  Example:

http://caraudiomag.com/testreports/0308cae_xtant/

The reviewer found the build quality to be excellent and the sound quality (measured and subjective) to best many class ab car audio amps. 

While I don't think the Xtant name has the same weight it carried in the mid 90's, I'd still place it above the average offerings from HiFonics, PG, PPI, and Soundstream. 

I say average because each of those companies makes some nice products at the top of their price offerings. 

New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: February 16, 2006 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
As someone who owns a set of Seas Lotus Reference comps (which retail for around $1200 by the way) I agree with the above recommendations to not scrimp on a cheap amp.  Those speakers will reveal every shortcoming in the amp and head unit.  50 watts per channel is more than enough, 100 watts is the most I've ever run to mine.  I use a Nakamichi amp.  Look for something with 0.5% THD or less.  Eclipse, Xtant, Diamond, JBL, etc.
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