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06 Camry, Crimestopper 2016FM


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rfh1234 
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Posted: March 15, 2006 at 1:28 PM / IP Logged  

Hi

I just have 2 wires left to connect that i am not 100% sure on. The horn which should be GREEN/ black and the flashing parking light wire which should be red for negative trigger. I figured it would be easier than trying to find which green wire in which connector it would be at the bottom of the fusebox plus I have a jumper on alarm brain to make it neg. Default is positive.
On the connector that plugs into the turn signal/headlight switch there are both of those wires, one GRN/BLK and one RED. Is the horn wire on this connector, I kind of thought it would be alone? Do I have to remove steering wheel to get to it.  I am not sure how to test these wires, it's been such a long time, though I do have a multimeter.
Thanks, Ron

rfh1234 
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Joined: February 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 15, 2006 at 1:37 PM / IP Logged  

Opps

I just noticed on the directwire sheet that both IGN 1 AND IGN2 have to be connected to the starter/crank wire of the remote starter. I am using a relay for that and I have to cut starter 1 wire, do I also cut starter 2 wire and hook up to relay the same as starter 1 wire???
Thanks,    Ron

Twelvoltz 
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Joined: March 24, 2005
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Posted: March 15, 2006 at 3:26 PM / IP Logged  
The ignition wires should not be connected to the starter wires.
To test for the horn wire, just hook your meter to the wire you suspect to be correct and press the horn button on the steering wheel. If it is the correct wire, it will show ground as you are activating the horn. Same should apply for the parking lights.
rfh1234 
Member - Posts: 28
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Joined: February 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 15, 2006 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged  

Im trying to figure out my answer by reading and making sense. Does this make sense. I have 1st starter wire cut, run through a relay with a diode in the socket (came with RS) etc. I understand that. I've done it before.

On the 2nd starter wire. Can I just solder a wire to it, not cut it,  and connect the other end of soldered on wire to the "starter output" wire on RS?

or do I use a second relay and wire it exactly like the starter kill relay , but basically wouldnt that be the same as cutting starter wires 1&2 and splicing key side together on terminal 30 and also splice together starter side together at 87?

I dont want to fry anything 

Thanks ,   Ron

rfh1234 
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Joined: February 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  

Well, it appears I'm talking to myself now, but for anyone who may run into this, which I'm sure there will be many, it appears, though I could be wrong, that the 2nd starter wire goes to it's own relay. On this relay it appears that what is being switched is 12 volts, which is switched to the 2nd starter wire. These are terminals 87 and 30 respectively, 12 volt constant to terminal 87 and 2nd starter wire to terminal 30. When the coil is energized it pulls the connection closed and viola 12volts flows to the 2nd starter wire.

What energises the coil is 12volts on one side and ground on the other. Terminal 85 connects to starter output wire of remote starter unit (and starter 1 wire) for the 12 volts, and terminal 86 goes to remote starters "ground out while running", negative. When you press the remote start button on your clicker 12 volts flow from starter output wire of remote starter unit to terminal 85 and terminal 86 goes to ground, energizing the coil and pulling the switch closed.

If all the above is correct, then my biggest question is why does 85 connect to starter 1 wire at all. It seems that connection should be covered through the starter disable/anti-grind relay. But is all of the above correct

I have searched and read for quite some time but the answers I found just didn't make sense to me. My friggin 98' 4-Runner starts just FINE without any stupid 2nd starter wire. Starts when it's below zero. Why do they just have to keep making things more complicated

rfh1234 
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Joined: February 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  
Oh yeah, I forgot to ask... Terminal 85 connects to remote start output AND starter 1 wire, but does it connect to starter 1 wire BEFORE (key side) or AFTER (starter side) the cut I made for starter disable/anti-grind???
Twelvoltz 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:42 AM / IP Logged  
OK, I read through this, and now I am partially lost myself. I am not really understanding what you are asking, so I will attempt it to reply and we will see if this is what you wanted to know.
As far as hooking up the second starter wire, I would connect it. It is there from the factory for a reason. Yes, just duplicate the wiring for the main starter wire. But do NOT combine the factory wires, use a seperate relay for each.
The 85 connection on your starter kill relay would go to the switch side of the starter kill circuit. This is so that the relay is only drawing power (and disconnecting the circuit) while there is energy coming from the switch. Meaning that even though the starter kill is working, it is not drawing any power untill the key is in the start position.
Hope this is what you were looking for.
rfh1234 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: March 16, 2006 at 11:00 AM / IP Logged  

I believe I have the wiring for the 2 relays figured out. On the second starter wire relay, I understand why "starter output " from RS goes to terminal 85 but I was wondering why it continues to "starter 1"  wire. Wouldn't that effectively bypass the starter disable relay ?

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/2ndstarterwire.asp

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