copying trim panel

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xkuco

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Joined: March 14, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: March 28, 2006 at 10:51 AM / IP Logged

i know im probably retarded for asking this but whats 1001 bd's????? and could u take a picture of the panel off to see how u mounted the piece ive been following this project just trying to learn thanks man

Velocity Motors

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Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: March 28, 2006 at 11:23 AM / IP Logged

tbone31 wrote:

perfect thanks alot man. im just starting to make up my amplifier racks they are gonna be mounted on each side on the rear pillars in this location.

they are 1001bd's one on each side. ive got the mdf secured onto the panel by dowel rods, and im gonna stretch the fabric tommorow, do you think it will look better sitting on the plate, or kinda sunk in? if you understand if not ill try and post some pics of what i mean.

I've always been a fan of flush mounting the equipment if all possible. Mounting on just the plate look unfinished to me unless cost factor is involved and the customer doesn't want to pay for the extra. In your case I would flush mount the RF's but the shape of the amp is going to give you some grief.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors

Moderator - Posts: 12,488

Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: March 28, 2006 at 11:27 AM / IP Logged

xkuco wrote:

The 1001BD's are Rockford Fosgate's monoblock amplifier's

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

xkuco

Member - Posts: 29

Joined: March 14, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: March 28, 2006 at 12:45 PM / IP Logged

oh ok u still gonna take off the piece to take pictures of coarse if u have too take it off to finish it is what im saying????

tbone31

Member - Posts: 40

Joined: March 07, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 19, 2006 at 10:48 PM / IP Logged

hey sorry guys, been real busy went out east for a while, then had to study for exams well today was a nice day so i got started on the interior mold, i dunno if im doing this the right way but im sure you guys can tell me. the amplifier racks are coming along nicely they are gonna look sick.

and xkuco sorry i got carried away and covered the racks before taking pics of how they are mounted.

basically i made a rack to fit my amp out of wood. i then used dowel rods to set it to the angle i wanted it to be at. then i wraped them in cloth and went from there.

copying trim panel - Page 2 -- posted image.

tbone31

Member - Posts: 40

Joined: March 07, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 19, 2006 at 10:54 PM / IP Logged

oh tommorow i will take some pics of the amp racks mounted so you can get an idea of how they will work.

so do I go ahead and pull the mold out in the morning and then start by building a skelaton to get the shape I want? also should i lay a layer of glass of the wood or just the joints? any advice apreciated thanks guys.

tbone31

Member - Posts: 40

Joined: March 07, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 20, 2006 at 8:26 PM / IP Logged

allright well i kept going figured i was okay, stupid me never finished the mounting rings or else i would have started to mount them then get an idea of how the box will look, spent alot of time also figuring out how im going to run my power wire and stuff might have to cut into the metal....

mold came out perfect no spills i was pumped.

heres how the amp looks and where it will go

side shot

picture of mold trimmed and amp rack placement, any tips on where to run the wires??

crazyoldcougar

Copper - Posts: 185

Joined: March 03, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 20, 2006 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged

i would leave it in to build the skeleton...the more you pull it in and out the better the chances of it warping...how many layers of glass you have down on the back side there?? aim for 7 or more...

next step is to set your speaker rings...angles and what not..after you have thos located you can figure out what you need for skeletal structure..you may not need any...for the most part they are going to come off the speaker and work outward...unless you want some funky shapes in the face of your box...but like i said you may be able to just stretch fabric over it and be done with it..

no need to coat the wood...there will be the most microscopic air leakage through the wood...but it is nothing to worry about...just make sure the joints are built up..2" overlap should be sufficient...i have even gone so far as to "caulk" the joint between MDF and glass with kitty hair then lay a layer or two of mat over it...

Fiberglass Guru.

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tbone31

Member - Posts: 40

Joined: March 07, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 20, 2006 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged

sorry one of the pics didnt post, can you edit posts if so how, so far i have five layers of glass and it passes the thumb test should i go to 7?

heres the pic that didnt post think i will have enough room to port for 32-35 hz? my subs say for ported 1.75ft3 to 4.00ft3 ?

tbone31

Member - Posts: 40

Joined: March 07, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: April 23, 2006 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged

i guess ill keep posting my progress here is there any way to edit the title of this post? anyways

got the rings mounted it was hard to get them lined up so they were at the same angle even though they are mounted at diffent heights.

after a few small mods i wrapped the box in fleece i was happy that i got no wrinkles at all i plan on smoothing the lines from the amp down to the box so it looks seamless but will be two different parts and here it is soaked in resin

and here it is with 2 layers of glass..

untill tommorow

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