2002 Chevy Tahoe Keyless

Yes. That's what I was thinking about the keyless. How would I know if it had keyless,but he just didn't get the remotes?

Check the glove box for the option code sticker.   The code for keyless entry is AU0. The cost of two factory remotes and labor to program them can be very expensive. It will likely be cheaper to replace with an aftermarket unit anyways. sparky

Thanks.

I have been out of town on business and am just know ordering the keyless for him. I assume that I am splicing(not cutting)into the lock/unlock wires before they go into the BCM,therefore sending a signal to the BCM by use of the remote? I don't want to do something wrong and burn something up!

Right. You'll obviously need the tools and ability to take down the driver's dash.........it's easy. Two 7mm bolts and the lower dash pulls off. Behind there is a metal bolster, held by four 10mm nuts; you could perhaps work around it, but removing it is recommended. You'll also need a multimeter or test light, and the ability to use it correctly. Finding the correct wires goes like this: --Touch your tester onto the pin at the BCM for the wire which you think is correct.........operate the desired function (locks, lights, or whatever)......and verify that the wire is the correct one. --Cut the tape off the wire harness, and make enough slack so you can work. Use a wire stripper to open up the insulation, but NOT cut the wire. (You might cut it by accident, but no big deal---you'll just have to reconnect it with solder, or a butt connector.) --Once the wire's insulation is opened up a bit, poke THROUGH the copper strands with your test probe, making an opening through the middle. Put your new wire THROUGH the hole, and then wrap it tightly around the factory wire. Adding solder is never a bad idea. --Next, wrap tape around the connection in the SAME direction you wrapped the wire.....if you try to wrap in the opposite direction, the aftermarket wire will unravel a little bit. --Finally, when you're finished with all your connections, throw a couple of zip ties around the whole bundle......the original wire you spliced into, the OTHER original wires, and the aftermarket wire.....so they'll lock together and won't come apart if pulled on. NOTE: That Tahoe uses positive-trigger lock and unlock wires. Some keyless units offer outputs that flip-flop from negative to positive, which is nice and makes it easy. Other units give ONLY a negative output, and you'll need to use a couple of relays to invert that to a positive........not a big deal, but kind of a pain.

Chris Luongo wrote: Right. You'll obviously need the tools and ability to take down the driver's dash.........it's easy. Two 7mm bolts and the lower dash pulls off. Behind there is a metal bolster, held by four 10mm nuts; you could perhaps work around it, but removing it is recommended. You'll also need a multimeter or test light, and the ability to use it correctly. Finding the correct wires goes like this: --Touch your tester onto the pin at the BCM for the wire which you think is correct.........operate the desired function (locks, lights, or whatever)......and verify that the wire is the correct one. --Cut the tape off the wire harness, and make enough slack so you can work. Use a wire stripper to open up the insulation, but NOT cut the wire. (You might cut it by accident, but no big deal---you'll just have to reconnect it with solder, or a butt connector.) --Once the wire's insulation is opened up a bit, poke THROUGH the copper strands with your test probe, making an opening through the middle. Put your new wire THROUGH the hole, and then wrap it tightly around the factory wire. Adding solder is never a bad idea. --Next, wrap tape around the connection in the SAME direction you wrapped the wire.....if you try to wrap in the opposite direction, the aftermarket wire will unravel a little bit. --Finally, when you're finished with all your connections, throw a couple of zip ties around the whole bundle......the original wire you spliced into, the OTHER original wires, and the aftermarket wire.....so they'll lock together and won't come apart if pulled on. NOTE: That Tahoe uses positive-trigger lock and unlock wires. Some keyless units offer outputs that flip-flop from negative to positive, which is nice and makes it easy. Other units give ONLY a negative output, and you'll need to use a couple of relays to invert that to a positive........not a big deal, but kind of a pain.

Thank you for the input.When you say use a tester to probe the wire,do I use the pos to the wire and the blk to a grnd to see if I get current?

The wiring diagram I have has the wires being this... POWER LOCK LIGHT BLUE (TYPE A)   @ BCM, BROWN PLug, Pin A4,       POWER UNLOCK WHITE (TYPE A)   @ BCM, BROWN Plug, Pin A3, 3

Am I correct in the way I mentioned about finding the correct wire? I also guess that I just need to tap into the parking lights to get them to flash during lock/unlock? The keyless has both pos/neg options for the locks and lights,so that's not a problem.