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Excess fleece


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judgedread 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 30, 2006
Posted: August 19, 2006 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
One more question, is my box supposed to get really hard or semi-hard, because right now its still flexible like it was before i applied resin. its been about 45 minutes.
torquehead 
Copper - Posts: 144
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Joined: January 15, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 20, 2006 at 12:10 AM / IP Logged  

Its supposed to get hard.  But, its initially only going to get as hard as the type and thickness of fleece cloth you used....(i.e. if you use thin cloth, it will only soak up so much resin....if you use thick fleece it will soak up much more and be harder).  But, it sounds as if your may be already beyond that point...so, when you add layers of FG mat or FG woven cloth with more FG resin it gets even more hard if you have mixed the resin as "hot" as it should be for the temperature and humidity in your area.  Ultimately, the "Shade Tree" fabricator's test is: "If you can stand on it without it breaking, its strong enough!", and there is also the thumb test....  Read this: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=42117&PN=1.  Jason of CarAudioHelp.com sent the link in this post to Jeff / Velocity with good explanation.  Jason has been a great source of basic and advanced information that can take you from rookie to....well, as far as your capabilities can go. 

I / we would love to see the photos of your first try.  I wont be laughing as others may, because I remember my "back then" jobs.  lol  But, the pics would be a great influence for other beginners to see and learn from another beginner.

judgedread 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 30, 2006
Posted: August 20, 2006 at 9:02 PM / IP Logged  
I read in another thread that the bondo resin isnt good and that in between layers of mat i will have to sand, why is that, why would i have to sand in between layers.
judgedread 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 30, 2006
Posted: August 20, 2006 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged  
wheres the edit button when you need one. Is an fiberglass roller really important, i cant find one at home depot, meijer, or walmart. and i dont wanna wait five days by ordering one off ebay.
torquehead 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 3:46 AM / IP Logged  

Oh boy, that "Roller" topic again!  You sand between layers of FG mat/resin because when it cures a bi-product is formed as wax which does not allow good adhesion to the next layer, thats been the argument.  This wax is caused by "cheaper" resin.  Use marine grade to avoid this, but dont dwell on it, what you have will work just fine.  I dont always follow this depending on the situation, because of past posts Ive been involved in.... Ill stay reserved on this issue.  But, as far as the FG roller, you more than likely going to be ordering it.  Its only important when you need one. 

So, your using FG mat?  Did you read where everyone tears the FG mat into peices?  Apply the resin on your "pre-cured" fleece, then slap on the ripped FG mat, apply more resin on the mat to wet it out...doing each piece like this.  When "wetting" or "saturating"  the FG mat, your making sure resin is pressed into the mat with your brush as well as making sure there are no excessive bubbles.  If you have done this, you have no real reason to require a FG roller.

judgedread 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 30, 2006
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  

i havent matted yet, i will tomorrow,

I guess ill have to stick to Bondo Resin, i found a place that has Rage Gold Body Filler so i guess im good on the bodyfiller, but my resin isnt so good. Im gonna buy the black decker sander, but which one should i use the 4-in-1 below or the smaller one below that, Its a ten dollar difference between the two.

Excess fleece - Page 2 -- posted image.

Excess fleece - Page 2 -- posted image.

killer sonata 
Silver - Posts: 718
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Joined: May 17, 2006
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 2:47 PM / IP Logged  
for "sanding" resin, its best to use a grinder of some sort. Personally I have a 36 grit sanding disc attachment for my drill. Works great. Once you use that to knock down the bumps and high spots, you can go back over it with the higher grits.
torquehead 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 6:36 PM / IP Logged  

Sonata's got it right.....use something that will knock the surface down if your going to do it at all.  The sanders you pictured dont have much movement. 

Yeah, your good with the Rage filler.  But to smooth the Rage, those sanders may work ok if you dont have an air type DA.

modena0 
Copper - Posts: 85
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Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  
i like to use a grinding wheel on an angle grinder myself. you just have to be a little more careful not to take too much off.
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judgedread 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: July 30, 2006
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  
what grinder do you guys prefer.
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