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factory stereo to rca adaptor


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cva me 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 8:03 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks again master5, I see what you mean with the worms thing...ie "ford-chevy, seal-ported, coke-pepsi" I have been a fan of kenwood,alpine,pioneer decks in that order. There are just so many different models to chose from.
Just an update for those interested the test infinity reference 6812's used, did clear up the highs dramaticly on the stock deck but at the expense of losing the mid bass and lower midrange the factory speakers had.
Thanks again
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2006 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  

cva, you are welcome. I have to ask this.Did you double check that the speakers are in phase? That could be a reason for the Infinities loss of midbass. You probably know what you are doing but sometimes even the best of us overlook the simplest things. If not then it is just the lack of power. I would imagine those speakers would really wake up with an amp, not to mention the sq improvment when you get your new deck.

Many times customers come in with new speakers for me to install but the deck is stock and they have no amp/sub. I ask them why they are changing the speakers because I know many times the improvment is very small, if any, unless of course they are replacing the stock ones because they are blown. If they just want crisper highs then they might be happy but if they expect any kind of drastic improvment from just replacing a 6.5 or 6 x 8 etc. for another, in my experience it doesn't really do too much with a stock deck.

Later

cva me 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2006 at 1:22 AM / IP Logged  
Master5, thanks again. Could you please refreash me on what you meant by "in phase"? A little quick history on my car audio. Did install and side sales with a couple of friends in the early to mid "80's" for extra $$ in High school. Back then pyramid was still out and Pyle was getting big, Fosgate was for the upper class due to expense. Install was easier then, not to much to choose from. Now car audio became a whole culture of its own. I am planning to go with a high power good deck and hopefully do without another amp, but because this is an addiction i probaly will anyway. The stockers were 25watts, did'nt say peak or rms. The infinity's which im keeping are 60 rms. So if you could explain what you meant by "phase", id appreciate it.
Thanks
wvsquirrel 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: October 16, 2006 at 1:33 AM / IP Logged  
Unless I miss my guess, Master5 is talking about making sure the positive and negative leads are hooked up correctly. It's a common reason for the loss of bass frequencies.
The easiest way to find the positive and negative on a speaker that isn't marked is called "popping" the speaker. Simply take a 9'volt battery (a cordless drill battery works as well) and run seperate wires from the + and - of the battery to the leads on the speaker. If the speaker "pops" out then you have the correct + and -. If the speaker "pulls" in then you have it reversed.
Squirrel
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If its too loud, then you're too old
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master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2006 at 4:35 AM / IP Logged  

Squirrel is correct. and it's funny you posting the battery test as I just posted that to someone else who is going nuts trying to find hs speaker wires. small world.

Anyhow, do what he says.......Phasing as to do with the time/distance that the sound from stereo speakers reach the listener. Basically if you took 2 house speakers and sat directly in front of each, and they are electrically in phase (more on that soon) they would also be acustically in phase. Now if you stayed seated in the same position, and had some else start moving one of the speakers away from you, you would start to notice a dimishing of bass response. The sound energy, (afterall a speaker is really an air pump in a sense) is now not equal so they are not working together to sum thier total energy.

Now has the one speaker keeps moving away this can be measured in degrees. At a certain distance the speakers can be considered as 180 degrees acoustcally out of phase. At this point you will have the weakest bass response. If this seems a little confusing don't worry, it's also been so long since I was teaching this I am actually struggling with terminology but can still make the point.

Now in a car you are basically stuck with where the speakers will be placed, yes you can modify things and put them almost anywhere but they will be fixed so as far as acoustcal phasing there is not much we can do in a car environment. You might have seen so alla out demo vehicles where they put the drivers seat in the middle and set it way back. Well this not only benifits acoustic phasing, but staging and imaging at that level in a car can perform almost as well as a home system. But thats an extreme example.

electricalphasing in a car, which is the real issue here there is only 2 ways you can have it wired. either in phase (0 degrees or 360 degrees, don't matter, same thing) OR 180 degress out of phase. For this we will only discuss 2 front speakers but all the speakers should be in phase. Sometimes sub amps or electronic cross overs have a phasing switch for the woofer(s).

now although the woofers themselves if using more then one must be electrically in phase with each other to produce soild bass, the woofers themselves can be out of phase with the rest of the speakers in the car since like in my earler wxample, distance has an effect and where the enclosure is located, the size of the car, etc, will effect the distance and what part of the bass wave hits your ears and when.

All you need to worry about with your 2 front speakers is that they are wired in phase electrically (like squirrel says, the the positve terminal of the left side speaker is going to the positive side of the correct output of the deck/amp and the same for the right side. Too many times this is overlooked either because the installer doen't know the color code, or was careless and just made a boo-boo. Thats why I say to always double check when there a bass response problem no matter who. Mistakes happen. don't forget the rears also. Just rinse and repeat the battery test on those as well.

when the speakers in your vehicle are electrically wired 180 degress out of phase (one side has the positive and negative reversed in respect to the other) the speakers move air against each other instead of with each other, effectivly cancelling most of the bass, mid bass out, which sux.

Now keep in mind if both of the speakers were wired backwards it would make no difference that you could notice by ear. Both speakers are still electrically in phase. audio is AC, so the speaker is just moving back and forth moving air. Now even at the lowest bass note a human can theoretically hear, 30hz...that cone is moving back and forth 30 times a second. If anyone could notice that by ear I also have a space ship in my garage and it can time travel.

I know this reply is long but I actually explained this the simplist way, over simplified it but I think you get the jist.

Easy one guys.

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 16, 2006 at 4:41 AM / IP Logged  
oops, I meant 20hz as the lowest. I am not well....lol But still that 20 times second, not exactly a snail.
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