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Best Passlock II bypass 99 Silverado


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master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 7:43 PM / IP Logged  
Although I have never had a 555 crap out on me and I use a ton of em kgerry's reccomendation may be a better route for you as you seemed very concerned about the cutting of the PKII wire. I have heard about the PLJX with positive feedback. I think I will order one and try it myself on my next RS install. Although I know the PKII well and have no probelms some of the less experienced guys I work with will appreciate this, and so will I with getting less calls on my time off to explain to them which wire to cut.
viperdasnake 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 8:36 PM / IP Logged  
I like the fact that the module only ties into the resistor wire, and I appreciate your post. I had overlooked that one.The fact that it is $15 cheaper than the PLDATA module onhttps://shop.bypasskit.com is a plus, but the PLDATA never touches the vehicle wires except for the databus.
A quick search on ebay has the PLDATA @ $45 shipped
http:///.com/ebaymotors/dll?ViewItem&item=8015304414
and the PLJX @ $45 shipped
http:///.com/dll?ViewItem&item=5864423531
So if I was to weigh the two I would probably have to choose the PLDATA module.Unless you know of some defects in the DATA modules...?But on the other hand I already have the 555 on the way. I would consider anothermodule if it made adding the other options for a more robust RS system easier.[Windows,Locks,Lights) At this point I understand that NO module exists that willinterface with the OBD2 connector for these options. I ASSume that my truck is notthat integrated into the computer. But if there was a module that did all of this,(passlock, windows, locks, lights....) then I would go that route. Even if it didn'tuse the ODB2 connector. Because as some I would think that it would get a littlecrowded will all of the extra modules hidden under your dash.
If I understand correctly the passlock wire (yellow) is 'OPEN' when there is no keypresent and only 'CLOSES' (uses resistor in tumbler) while the key is in the ignition sequence.If this is the case then the all of these modules must output some voltage or resistance when themodule is triggered and just pass the tumbler resistance through when it is not triggered.(except for the case of the PLJX - It must just monitor the line until activated)
If this is the case then the (yellow) wire may only need to be bypassed (cut and run through the module)for the module to pick up the resistance of the tumbler resistor the first time you start the vehicle.And that is possibly could then be Spliced back together after that....? By that I mean that the DEI-555LW would have to be wired as documented to learn the code and then the (yellow) wire could be reconnectedand the BCM side of the 555 could be connected to the (yellow) wire and the key side of the 555 couldbe capped off. Maybe that's what the PLJX is actually doing. Watching the passlock wire resistance value and thenemulating that value when the module is triggered. The only difference is the 555 has to see it passthrough the module to learn the value.
I know, I know, this is a little much to be considering when I don't even have my 555 yet.But that's me....
viperdasnake 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  
master5
Just so you know... The 457gw was the module I actually meant to refer to in my orignal postBut I am glad that I mentioned the wrong ones so that I could learn that theremodules like that for the windows and locks to make it easier.
Do you know where I could find a list of add on modules for the Viper 791XVand A place I could look at thier install manuals...?
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  

Nah, I think you are overANALizing a bit. First off the reason you can't do all those options through the obd2 in your truck is only becasue of its year. If you had a newer GM truck then you could use the 457 or something else and do it with less wiring "invasivly" into the vehicle.

If you feel up to the challenge you should do all the features you wish yourself, even though to your misfortune no obd2 integration is used in your truck. If you are confident that you can make safe connections, and know how to use a DMM, it is really not that hard. Time consuming yes, but not hard.

Now since you already have a 555 on its way to you I feel you should just use it. I promise you it is not difficult and at least in my experience have not had any issues whatsoever.

You do not need in any way to be so concerned how the PKII works. All you need to know is that you will cut one thin yellow wire at the ignition harness. There is a thin yellow wire on the module. You connect that to the key side. Then take the thin yellow/black wire from the module and connect it to the vehicle side of the cut yellow. There is a thin black wire on the module, the taps into the only other PKII wire you need to access, I believe on your truck it is also black but the directions with the 555 will tell you exactly.

There is a thin blue wire on the 555 that you will need to connect to the RS. DEI gives you 3 possible optional wires where you can connect that to but its function is to activate the module to send the code during remote start. (also a blue wire that sends - during remote start)

Now you just hook up your ground, then power. Start the vehicle with the key and in a few seconds the code is learned. Turn the key off and try it with the remote start. If everything else is correct and your tach is programmed or voltage threshold if you so choose, you are done with the PKII part.

The code needs to be sent every time the vehicle is started so I don't think what you were trying to explain will work, if I understood correctly.

It really is simple and does everything for you, all you need to do is wire it in properly and make soild reliable connections for troublefree performance.

Hope I am still being of help.

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 10:09 PM / IP Logged  

ok the 791 should come with everything you need to do doorlocks, remote start and full security. If you wish to add window control then that should be the only other module you need besides the 555 for PKII. Now you don't have to use DEI window modules but I prefer them personally, especially when already using a DEI RS.

there should be a direction manual with the RS unit in the box, If you lost it or don't have it for whatever reason you need to go to an authorized DEI dealer and ask if they will get you a printout for directechs. click on resourcses and select the model and print any manual you need. I don't know if all shops will do this for you or if they might want to charge a small fee but it's worth a shot. Perhaps someone else here will post it for you or email it if so inclined.

As far as finding out about all the modules you can try directed.com but usually I have no luck finding anything useful there. You might once again need to find a dealer and look at thier catalog but I don't think you should need any more then the 555 and a window mod.

master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2006 at 10:18 PM / IP Logged  

One more thing. About having all those modules and where to put them. The PKII module is small, you can zip tie that up and away behind stuff under the dash, just keep away from moving parts.

window mods I put in the door between the watershield and panel, if no room I will try the kick or as a last resort somewhere under the dash, there is room in your truck for stuff.

The DEI RS as 3 main components. The "brain, the relay module (small) and the relay "cluster".

The brain is fairly small and the relay will locate not too far from the ignition harness since thats where all your high current connections are made.

the last thing to mount under the dash is the shock sensor, the 791 uses an external one and it is tiny, zip tie it to a large wire harness will usually give decent performance. On some trucks if the customer is ultra picky about even sensitivity around the whole vehicle I add an additional one to the rear of the truck.

viperdasnake 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 20, 2006 at 1:04 AM / IP Logged  
Hi again...
HELP ME, HELP ME...!!!!
LOL
First I need to get you caught up to the point of where I am at. I received the 555L this past weekend. I already have a (crappy) Bulldog Security RS82I/RS85I starter.
Manual for starter: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/rs81new.pdf Diagram: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/pdfs/RS-82i%20-85i-RS-79%20QUICK%20INSTALLATION%20DIAGRAM.pdf Bulldogs wire diagram for my truck: http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=13469&MakeID=54&link=BULLDOG Good Pic of wire harness: http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=927&link=BULLDOG
Passlock wires I used: http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=940&link=BULLDOG Did not use the red wire.
This is the normal starting order with the key:
• Turn key to run
• Headlights, park lights, All dash lights, A/C, radio, are all on. • Start vehicle (While starting, Headlights and other
lights stay on, A/C turns off) • Vehicle started (Everything is on again.)
I installed the 555 first. First thing I did was cut the small yellow wire @ key tumbler and try to start the truck. It started for about a ¼ of a second and died. Actually tried a few times to make sure I knew what it should sound like. Reconnected the yellow wire with a jumper. Tried to restart the truck. Still no start. Tied the wire together. Still no start. Soldered the wire together. Still no start. Went to the computer to try to find out how many failed starts it takes to lock out the truck. Couldn’t find it, but did find that I may need to leave the key on for 10 min (and may or may not need to leave the drivers door open.) Of course by the time I got back to the truck it started just fine… LOL Just to make sure I unsoldered the wire and tried to start it. No start. GOOD.
Completed the 555 install as per this list:
Red – Constant +12V (in ignition harness)
Pink – Small Ga Yellow (in ignition harness)
Violet – NC
Blu/Blk - Yel/Blk (to Bulldog [bulldog goes and stays (-) on RS])
Blk - Org/Blk (@ key switch)
Blk/Wht – NC
Yel - Yellow (on key side) @ key tumbler
Blk/Yel - Yellow (opposite key side) @ key tumbler
Drove to work like this. (dash/steering column exposed…) ;-O
After work I continued the install.
Wired the Bulldog RS as per this list:
Small Harness:
Yellow – (antenna, did not touch)
RD/BLK – NC
BLK/WT – NC
BLK/BLU – NC
BLU – NC
YEL/BLK – BLU/BLK @ DEI-555L
BLU/BLK – NC
BRN – NC
BLK – GND
Large Ga Wires:
WT – Pink (IGN harness Large GA)
Wt/RD – WHT (IGN harness Small GA)
RED – RD/WT (IGN harness Large GA)
YEL/BLK - (IGN harness Small GA)
RED – RED (IGN harness Smaller Large GA) [smaller than the above RD/WT
WT/BLK – ORG (IGN harness REALLY Large GA)
There is also a BRN (IGN harness Large GA) that I believe is a IGN #3
From this sheet: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1999&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado&ID=17458&type=Alarm
In the Bulldog manual page 9: If your vehicle has three (3) ignition wires, as some newer GMs, Fords and Chryslers do, connect the heavy gauge WHITE wire, Ignition #1 wire and Ignition #3 wire in the ignition switch harness all together.
I have tried to connect all of the three ignition wires, just the first and third, first and second….
So now that I have the background out of the way: The truck will start and die, EXACTLY like when I cut the yellow wire earlier today and tried to start it. I can start it with the key. The only difference is the A/C does not come on until after a start is attempted. The RS is defaulted to tachless.
I am going back out to start checking resistances or voltages with the bypass to see if they look the same as when the key is used. I did verify that the RS Yellow/Black does go (-) and stays that way during a start.
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 20, 2006 at 1:39 AM / IP Logged  

wow thats alot of info but seems you are close.

The reason they emphasize about that 3rd ignition (white) will not have an effect on how the remote system starts the car per say. (on some other GM trucks the white or pink white is 2nd ignition, no 3rd is needed).

It is more about the engineering of the vehicle. If all the igntion wires on many GM trucks do not recieve power at the same moment in time it will cause the transmission have problems with shifting (strange..but true..been there)

But it shifts fine when started with the key. I have not seen this cause any damage (but you never know) Simply hooking up the white ignition wire cures the issue.

And yes..if you mess with the passlock system (or older VATS) as well, it will lock out start for a while. Thats what you did when you cut the yellow passlock wire and attempted to start, no biggie.

Before we go any further please make sure everything you connected to was safely and accuratly verified with a DMM.

A quick test for the 555.

Unplug the 555 and jump the thin yellow wire. Put the key in and attempt to remote start. If it does the issue is the install of the 555 or a possible defective unit but thats doubtful, I have good luck with those. follow the directions to "learn" it after you verify all of the connections.

Next you stated you connected the pink wire of the 555 to a "thin yellow" at the ignition harness. Verify that thin yellow is true ignition. If not the unit won't work. Connect it to one of the main ignition wires that you used for the RS. It is simply an ignition check for the 555 to turn it on..the neg during RS wire you connected at the bulldog brain will send the "r" code and allow starting. You might want to check that connection as well. It should put out (-) during cranking of the RS unit.

The other possibility is that you are using the unit tachless, which can give the same symptons you have. On the DEI you must look in the manual at the programming guide. Its a bit confusing without the bitwriter but I do it all the time. Make sure the "check engine" feature is enabled if using it tachless. If stilll shuts down go to the next feature "check engine tach" I think but it's the very next option, I do not have a manual handy right now. Regardless, the bulldog may have something like that to set the voltage threshold, it may not start the vehicle properly if not programmed.

I would reccomend doing it with the tach if the wire is easy to access, I believe it is on those trucks..something like a white wire in a plug marked WHITE on the ECM under the hood, can't miss it. Then you must most likely program the unit for "tach learn" See directions of your system for procedure.

Ok I did my best with what you gave me. Let me know what the dealio is after you check everything I left so far.

Good luck..any other problems be just as specific, that helps alot. Thanks.

viperdasnake 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 20, 2006 at 5:03 AM / IP Logged  
OOOh...
So you mean I have to put EVERY wire EXACTLY where it is supposed to go...??? LOL
You were right about the thin yellow wire. That is the start wire. Moved the pink (555) wire to the Pink (IGN harness Large GA) wire.
Works like a charm...!!!
FYI: The Paslock wires are soldered but the rest are just tied together right now. Tomorrow, this afternoon, I am going to solder all of them.
The rest is in response to the other points you made in hopes that it may help someone else that reads this:
There are definitely 3 ignition wires. Large Ga Pink
Small Ga White
Large Ga Brown
The Bulldog has 2 ignition outputs.
What do you think is the best way to wire the three wires...?
I had read about the lock out start feature before but I couldn't remember the details. Do you know how many starts it has before lockout. I seem to remember there being a short lockout and a long lock out. And is that what it is called "lock out" or what is it commonly referred to...?
Did use a DMM for EVERYTING. The Bulldog alarm also came with a "Computer Friendly" test probe. It is 2 led's wired so they both light up when hooked up and only one lights for a (+) terminal/wire and only the other one lights up for a (-) terminal/wire. Works great. If you don't have one I will post the wiring diagram for it. But you do have to take into account how solid state outputs can sink (-) voltage even though it is actually a source (+) output. My "Start" thin yellow wire is actually (+) output from the key but in the off position it looked like a (-) but when you turn on the key it switches to a (+).
I am using the Bulldog in tachless mode. (default) Works off voltage and timing. Works ok for now. Truck has always been real easy to start. When I get the Viper I will probably use that feature.
viperdasnake 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: October 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 20, 2006 at 5:06 AM / IP Logged  
O by the way...
THANKS...!!!!
Your help was definitely appreciated..!!!
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