Best Passlock II bypass 99 Silverado

No probelm, you are quite welcome. I live for this stuff...OMG!!!, I really DO need to get a life.!!..lol

Anyhow, that is correct. You actually have to connect everything where it belongs, but as well...to verify every wire before connecting. I know the led test thingy they gave could be a help but ANY professional installer knows the only safe way to test circuits, ESPECIALLY in todays vehicles, is with a digital multimeter.

The internal resistance of a mulitmeter is millions of ohms so in effect the circuit or wire you are testing hardly knows you are being "invasive" to it. A simple led, even if it has additional resistors is a crap shoot. I have been installing forever so I feel safe using a computer safe test light...but...only on wires I know can handle the addition draw. I would never consider any kind of tester other then a DMM on any unknown wire. Glad you stated that you used a DMM.  A gold star for you.

Properly soldering your connections is also extra credit. Double good for you.

Now for the 3rd ignition. A couple of ways to go depending. What I do not reccomend is to just "twist" it together with the other ignition wire(s). The factory seperated them for a reason and although this will work, and "probably" never cause an issue, it is not the right way to go..it is a "rigging".

IF your RS unit has an extra (- )RS output..... wire a 12v spdt relay as such.

85....neg. output from brain

86 and 30...Main 12v+ with a fuse close to power source of course. (86 could go to ign as well..your choice) But 30 must be to main constant or you defeat the purpose of the relay. (isolation)

87...To the 3rd ignition wire      87a is not used..insulate it and mount relay with a screw or zip tie in a safe place away from moisture and moving parts.

If there is no extra (-)RS output on the brain...

85....ground

86...to 2nd ignition wire

30..12v+ main power with fuse

87...same as above.....

If the default setting (tachless) is working fine in all engine temperature conditions it may not pose a problem. Hopefully the unit has an "antigrind" feature. The DEI's do, but if not if can be done with a relay as well.

Take care and I was glad to be of assistance.

Oh... you asked about the PL2 lockout. I am not 100% sure if there are different timout lengths depending on how many tries. I do not have a service manual for that vehicle. But in retrospec, I do not care. As long as I understand the basics of what it does, and how to properly bypass/interface with it, the universe remains intact.

I have a little more experience with the older GM "VATS" , the one with the small resistor in the key shaft. I know on that system one start attempt with the wrong or no resistance value and it's like a 20 minute or longer wait between tries. Kind of a pain for those with older GM cars as they tend to wear out (the keys and/or the ignition cylinder.). and the keys are not cheap to replace either. There is a simple way to bypass the system completly with just one resistor shunting the VAts side. Now the customer can use basic 1 dollar keys and have a "real" security system installed if desired. If they wish to integrate with an RS a simple relay and resistor (one of only 15 possible values measured off the key) does the trick.

Curtis again.

The 555L has been working perfect.

H1/12 Orange is not used.....

cut the starter wire... green goes to the key side and purple goes to the starter side.....