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87 mustang door locks


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qdaddy 
Copper - Posts: 133
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 06, 2006
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 1:34 AM / IP Logged  
what size fuse in your lock relay pack off the alarm (15A) jus use existing wires factory to actuators and if these two things are correct then your actuators are binding meaning that to much force is being exerted on doorlock  rod and need to readjust so they move smoothly and freely jus try testing each door by itself before tappin into factory wires and power the actrs with your drill battery 9.6 V or higher pos neg of drill to actr then reverse batt to reverse doorlock motion once they work fine off your drill batt then proceed to hook up to factory wires if they burn up at that point then you know the problem is in your alarm wires or alarm lock relays also check factory switchs make sure they are not sticking use your dmmeter to check the wires if they continue to see power without rest then burn actrs so set output for shortest possible setting .487 mustang door locks - Page 2 -- posted image.
faded808 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 2:10 AM / IP Logged  
fuse I used was a 10A then 5A the 10A again.... Binding?? hmmm dont get it, I tested it my manualy locking the door by pushing the lock down with finger and it goes smoothly?? checked meter, when I press the lock on alarm it see's 12.7 volts when unlocked then the same 12.7 volts locked...
when I press the arm button it shows 12.7 constant for awhile (20 sec) then goes to zero..
dunno, the first set worked for like a week?? then the others for like 5 days or so??
qdaddy 
Copper - Posts: 133
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 06, 2006
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 2:20 AM / IP Logged  
lock pulse should be .4 seconds longer  willburn after a short time  binding means working to hard to push or pull test with a battery as stated cut the wires back off the factory wires test batt to one actr then test other door87 mustang door locks - Page 2 -- posted image.
faded808 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 2:34 AM / IP Logged  
ye, thats what I set the lock puls to .4, because I had a feeling that it was to long of a wait before it grounds?
as of now I dont have another set to test since both burnt :-(
I dont think its binding because its like loose and free moving...
faded808 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged  
so how do you really know if it is really binding? I realy dont know how to tell if its binding?
h2oskierfl 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 14, 2006 at 3:36 PM / IP Logged  
disconnect the lock/unlock wires from the car a meter the voltage coming out of the brain. Is it staying hot for the 20 or so seconds like you said? If so, bad unit. If not, double check your relays used for the 5 wire interface on your pink / YELLOW and pink/green factory wires. Possible they may be sticking causing the burn up. You need to figure out why its giving you a 20 second pulse before connecting any actuators because a pulse that long will just keep burning them up.
faded808 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 15, 2006 at 2:47 AM / IP Logged  
ok, I checked the blue/green (unlock/lock)wires, and tested it with my meter and it does still give me a 20 seconds delat before goes to 0. I changed it back to .8 and .4 still the same, should I try 3.5?? if it still does it, is there anyway to fix it? I really do want my alarm to lock/unlock the doors when I press arm/disarm...
faded808 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 15, 2006 at 4:40 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all your help..
I just figured it out why it was giving a 20 sec. pulse, because I activated the comfort colsue freature, which "comfort closure supply a 20 second pulse on the lock/unlock wire 200 milliseconds after you lock or unlock. This triggers the factory automatic windows."
It is for built in window modules with one touch feature...
:-)
guess Im gonna buy another set of actuators.......
hotmilk400 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 18, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2006 at 2:24 PM / IP Logged  
it sounds like i have a simular problem.. i just bought a keyless entry for my 1988 mustang. 
i took apart the door unlock/lock consule (on the door) so i could find the right wires.  there were 5 differnt wires ( i think) i found the 2 wires who's power jumps to 12v when you hit the lock button, and the unlock button.  i used a wire to jump the wires to just make sure that they worked if u hit it with a 12 volt positive sorce.. they work (kinda seemed slow but i ignored that, it wasnt to bad)  so i found the 2 wires.  i hooked them to the door unlock and lock on my keyless entry system and i gave the 3rd wire a positive sorce.  (just like the wirediagram says to do .  meaning when u unlock or lock, it give the doors a positive 12V sorce off the battery.  (seems fine) i hooked up everything else (it also had a car alarm so i had to hook the lights and trunk release and all that up)  i hit the door lock key when i was done and everything worked perfectly except the doors did not lock or unlock..  i pulled the whole alarm apart.   ..  i found that as soon as the power was sent to the door, the small 10 amp fuse would blow..  i couldnt figure out why, i figured it was just a small fuse becuase the motor stuck or something.. so i manually toched the door lock and unlock wires with a 12 volt sorce and the fuse would blow.   the door controls all work fine (meaning i didnt destroy them doing this) but i cant figured out why puting a positvie to the controls doesnt unlock or lock them.  
im going to guess and say the other wires in the control thing have to do with why the doors dont unlock/lock.. my keyless entry cn be set up for differnt types of locks (vacum, reverese negative, positive)  i set them up as a positive.  should it be set up as a negative? i think that would destroy the alarm, the system i thought was positive... the wires i taped into were both pink, ( im not 100% sure of the stripe colors, i think one was black and the other was yellow?)   there are also 2 other pink wires and a black wire (should i use that black wire as a source of power, and not the 12v sorce i have ?)  im lost..  please help me.. it sounds like you guys have some understanding of what you are doing..
THANKS!!!!
h2oskierfl 
Copper - Posts: 87
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2006 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged  
The locks on the 88 mustang are 5 wire. Look in the relay wiring guide for the correct setup. Your wire colors should be pink / YELLOW and pink/green. It may be easier to just grab them in the kick panel instead of having to go through the boot. should be in both driver and passenger door harnesses.
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