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CM3000M alarm


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thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  
"where can you find the tach wire in the evo ix 2006?"
What about at the Ignition coil?
"do you have to connect the (+) or (-) or both on the same single door wire?"
Either + OR -, but not both. Test and find out.
"2nd (+) input is only for a second ignition, accessory or starter, do you still have to power that up by connecting it to a constant 12V or can you just disregard that?"
You have to test your main ignition harness to see what you need. Best to power everything up like you would when you start the vehicle using the key. The relay will have the constant connected on the module, otherwise will you will need a constant 12V from main harness.
"Is there a problem with my remote? I tried to press I or II but there was no response from the car at all. I replaced the battery and the remote will power up for a few seconds and no response at all. It shows the clock and battery but nothing else. yes I used fresh batteries. help "
Remote has to be program. Otherwise, it wouldn't respond.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.CM3000M alarm - Page 2 -- posted image.
evois 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged  

thanks for the quick reply,  I was able to tap the tach wire from the instrument cluster gauge and was recognized by the alarm unit.  The install guide from compustar says to connect both (+) and (-) trigger correspondingly.  short of a relay, I just used a 1 amp blocking diode and using the single door trigger, connected the diodes accordingly.  My car has no second ignition/ accessory/ starter wire so I did not connect it to anything but just powered the 2nd(+) input from CN#3 because according to the manual it powers the "unit" ? alarm unit?  I the compustar dealer and said that true I have to program the remote(whew!).

as for the arm and disarm output, do I have to use it?  thanks!

thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  
"as for the arm and disarm output, do I have to use it? "
Only if you have a factory alarm. Otherwise, NO.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.CM3000M alarm - Page 2 -- posted image.
evois 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 5:10 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks, I'll find tomorrow when I try it out.  so far the turbo timer is working already:)

JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 9:44 PM / IP Logged  
You use either the (-) door trigger input, or the (+) door trigger input. Do NOT use both. I believe your car has a (-) input.
evois 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 21, 2006 at 1:34 AM / IP Logged  

JWorm wrote:
You use either the (-) door trigger input, or the (+) door trigger input. Do NOT use both. I believe your car has a (-) input.

My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input.  Is that wrong?  as I read from a similar manual 2000AS, it says that I have to hook up both wires to determine the polarity of the door trigger(?)

I'm planning to do a clutch bypass also in this car.  can I use a relay?  12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2 , clutch line input(trigger switch) to 30 and out wire to ground from 87, 87a will be the continuation of the clutch line from 30?  it is hard to find this kind of relays though since most relays I see have both 87 and 87a connected.

thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: November 21, 2006 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
"My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input. Is that wrong?"
Yes, if you have -, then use the negative tigger. As suggest by JWorm use either one, but not both.
A stardard 5 wire relay will do.
"12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2"
This part is fine.    
For the clutch bypass wire you have to Meter the wire on the switch to find out if they are + or -.
87,30 connection will depend on the polarity of your clutch wire.
87a is not needed.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.CM3000M alarm - Page 2 -- posted image.
evois 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 23, 2006 at 12:31 AM / IP Logged  

thepencil wrote:
"My car has a (-) door trigger input when open that is why I used the CN#3 pin #5(RED / white) trigger input from the alarm box then used a blocking diode for the CN#3 pin#6(red) on the same (-) door trigger input. Is that wrong?"
Yes, if you have -, then use the negative tigger. As suggest by JWorm use either one, but not both.
A stardard 5 wire relay will do.
"12V to 86, 85 to the (-) status out wire from CN#2 pin#2"
This part is fine.    
For the clutch bypass wire you have to Meter the wire on the switch to find out if they are + or -.
87,30 connection will depend on the polarity of your clutch wire.
87a is not needed.

So, since I hooked up both door trigger sensors, even with the blocking diode, I should take out the (+) trigger then?  Is that the reason why the power lock doesn't work when I arm/disarm the remote?

As for the clutch bypass switch, I removed the switch plug but that simple procedure did nothing.  That means I have to put a relay?  there is no SPDT relay available locally, if there was nobody knows what it is.  anyway, while out of town, I was able to purchase a bosch spdt relay from cartoys store.  Is it definite that 12V constant power to 86? then 85 to the (-) status output of CN#2 pin#2?(same output of the transponder?).  after searching the net, it says 30,87 connection for the clutch wire(series) and 87a to ground?  so when the (-) output triggers, 30-87a results to grounding of the clutch wire?  will that set-up short anything or mess up the alarm unit?  does it matter if the clutch switch triggers (+) or (-)?

so far after the install here is what works:  the car arms itself but the power door lock doesn't work.  the hood sensor and the led are working normally as well as the tested tach wire showed normal connections.  the turbo timer works but the remote start doesn't(after I unplugged the wire).  I will try to disconnect the (+) door trigger wire and install the clutch switch and see what happens when I come back from out of town.  thanks for all the help.  It wasn't a bad install after all.

evois 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 23, 2006 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged  
evois wrote:

so far after the install here is what works:  the car arms itself but the power door lock doesn't work.  the hood sensor and the led are working normally as well as the tested tach wire showed normal connections.  the turbo timer works but the remote start doesn't(after I unplugged the wire).  I will try to disconnect the (+) door trigger wire and install the clutch switch and see what happens when I come back from out of town.  thanks for all the help.  It wasn't a bad install after all.

this is the original install I did.  I have not connected the clutch bypass, not have disconnected the door trigger.  I will find out when I come back.

thepencil 
Gold - Posts: 1,526
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 16, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: November 23, 2006 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged  
"So, since I hooked up both door trigger sensors, even with the blocking diode, I should take out the (+) trigger then? Is that the reason why the power lock doesn't work when I arm/disarm the remote?"
From experience, older vehicle of this type I have work on is typically - trigger. Again, learning how to make the distingtion whether if is negative and positive using a mulitimeter and test light will probably eliminate any doubt. Further note, if the hood pin is grounded, truck pin is grounded, the locks will not function.
“As for the clutch bypass switch, I removed the switch plug but that simple procedure did nothing. “
Correct, because it needs a correct polarity in order for it to function. To do this test, apply pressure to the clutch pedal with engine running and not running.   Meter the wire when the pedal is applied. That’s what you will need to do to find out the poritiy of the wire in order to corretly setup the clutch bypass relay!
“Is it definite that 12V constant power to 86?”     YES
“then 85 to the (-) status output of CN#2 pin#2” YES
“(same output of the transponder?)”
YES, remember to put a DIODE to the stutus wire so that you isolate any feedback from the two thing you are triggering.
1 - the relay to bypass the clutch, and
2 – the transponder bypass.
“after searching the net, it says 30,87 connection for the clutch wire(series) and 87a to ground? so when the (-) output triggers, 30-87a results to grounding of the clutch wire? will that set-up short anything or mess up the alarm unit? does it matter if the clutch switch triggers (+) or (-)?”
Nothing will get mess up when you have a good understanding of how to test for the polarity of each wire you are about to connect.   Pin 30 and 87 will only be needed. 87a is unlikely, again you have to do the testing to find out how the clutch wire is connect on the vehicle. The clutch wires are usually negative or positive for imports.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.CM3000M alarm - Page 2 -- posted image.
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