CM3000M alarm

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evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 23, 2006 at 9:04 PM / IP Logged

thanks for all the replies! it makes sense to me now about the clutch. I'll check the polarity if it is (+) when the clutch is not pressed and (-) when depressed or vice versa(is that correct?). as for the power door lock/unlock, I think it should be on the power lock and lock circuitry and not the door trigger switch. the car alarms if the door is opened and I check the hood and trunk triggers and it isn't grounded. I'll find out and do the finishing touches. as for the diodes, I know which one now to buy based on this website. I might install this alarm now in my other two cars!

you're right about the multimeters, I was able to get the tach wire from evo 9 instrument cluster and it worked :)

thepencil

Gold - Posts: 1,526

Joined: December 16, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: November 23, 2006 at 11:11 PM / IP Logged

" I'll check the polarity if it is (+) when the clutch is not pressed and (-) when depressed or vice versa(is that correct?)."

Sounds like you have a negative clutch wire. Following my instruction, what I want you to do is measure it again to verified your finding. This part of measuring the correct polarity is kind of tricky to grasp, but I think you are getting the idea.

Here is what I like you to do. It's imparitive that you have the RED probe from mulitimeter touching the +12V battery post OR touching the +12V off the main ignition harness. Now using the Black probe touch the clutch wire. The reading should be zero. Now with the clutch depress, the reading is +12V. If that is your finding, you have a negative clutch wire. On your clutch bypass relay you have to make a gound connection on the relay to pin 30 and 87 to the clutch wire. Post your finding.

Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. CM3000M alarm - Page 3 -- posted image.

JWorm

Platinum - Posts: 2,208

Joined: December 11, 2002

Location: New Hampshire, United States

Posted: November 24, 2006 at 12:37 AM / IP Logged

Do not cut any wires that go to the clutch switch. Add a relay.

86 - constant

85 - (-) starter output of remote start (RED / black I think)

30 - one wire of clutch switch

87 - other wire of clutch switch

87a - not used

The relay joins the 2 wires at the clutch switch. Its the same thing that happens when you press the pedal all the way to the floor.

Again, NOTHING should be connected to the red door trigger (+) input.

evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 6:40 AM / IP Logged

I just checked the service manual of the evo and the clutch switch is off when it is not grounded. meaning, when you depress the clutch, on means that the switch actually connects it to ground. with the relay, I want the remote start to be able to start the car. if I use the key normally, I also want the car not to start unless I press the clutch(as a safety feature). So, is this correct? 86-12V constant

85-(-) output from remote start

30- the wire before it goes to the clutch switch(cut)

87-the other end of the wire going to the clutch switch

87a- connected to ground

30 and 87 are normally connected, so the clutch switch should function normally because there is continuity from 30-87. when the clutch is off(not depressed), the car will not start because there is no continuity in the clutch switch. when using the remote start, 86-85 is triggered hence, 30-87a will have direct continuity with ground completing the circuit and allowing you start the car. is this correct?

as for the door trigger, you guys are right, I'll just use the (-) trigger and disconnect the positive trigger since the alarm is not sensing it at all. even when armed, it doesn't sound the alarm even when I open the door. as for the power door lock, does the compustar CM3000M have this capability? it doesn't power lock itself, although it arms itself normally. just arrived from vacation and will catch up with this thread once everything is fully installed. thanks again!

thepencil

Gold - Posts: 1,526

Joined: December 16, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 12:21 PM / IP Logged

Sounds like you need a ground signal to activate the clutch, therefore you don't need to cut your clutch wire.

The clutch relay installation should look something like this.

85- (-) output from remote start (status black wire), which is your ground out when running wire. This is the wire that provide a ground signal only when your are remote starting. Remember to add a diode on to this wire because you are also running a transponder.

30- this wire goes to the clutch switch (NO Cutting)

87- the other end of this wire will go to ground to provide the clutch switch with a ground signal when you activate the remote start.

87a- not require

86- +12volts constant

Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. CM3000M alarm - Page 3 -- posted image.

evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 28, 2006 at 8:52 AM / IP Logged

okay first the door trigger of the evo is (-), so after connecting to the (-) output of the alarm, it did not work as I want, meaning after opening the door the alarm doesn't sound at all. after trying to put diodes, etc. I ended up connecting the (-) door trigger to the (+) output of the alram and now it works great. as for the clutch relay switch, there are two clutch bypass switches:( I'll do it later

evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 30, 2006 at 8:52 AM / IP Logged

so far all the controls are working except for the remote start and the lock /unlock from the remote. the remote start is because I have not connected the clutch bypass. I just wanted to know, it says in CN#2 pin #2 which is a (-) status out wire and said to provide 200mA output. Is that okay to connect to 86 from the relay and 85 is from a 12V constant?(for the clutch). If I plan to connect a blocking diode(since it is connected to the transponder module, too), where will be the cathode(marking) side-towards the relay or towards the alarm unit? Should I connect a blocking diode to the transponder bypass unit also? Is the cathode(marking) towards the bypass unit or alarm unit? thanks for the input?

thepencil

Gold - Posts: 1,526

Joined: December 16, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: November 30, 2006 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged

"so far all the controls are working except for the remote start and the lock /unlock from the remote. the remote start is because I have not connected the clutch bypass. I just wanted to know, it says in CN#2 pin #2 which is a (-) status out wire and said to provide 200mA output. Is that okay to connect to 86 from the relay and 85 is from a 12V constant?"

Yes. - status out wire will only activate during the remote start period.

"If I plan to connect a blocking diode(since it is connected to the transponder module, too), where will be the cathode(marking) side-towards the relay or towards the alarm unit? Should I connect a blocking diode to the transponder bypass unit also? Is the cathode(marking) towards the bypass unit or alarm unit? thanks for the input? "

You will need two. One for the transponder module and the other is for the clutch bypass. As to which side goes where, I don't know either. However, I do know where to direct you to find out. You've gone this far, I got to get you to do the rest of the reading.

How diodes works?

Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. CM3000M alarm - Page 3 -- posted image.

evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 30, 2006 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged

thanks for the reply. I have read the link even before you posted it several times and I agree with it. however, just out of curiosity, with my multimeter, I tried to check continuity with the ohmmeter(of the multimeter) and it is reversed in terms of polarity from diagram and from my multimeter. why is that? based on the diagram, I plan to put the 2 diodes with the cathode towards the alarm unit and the anode towards the bypass module and the other diode with the cathode towards the alarm module and the anode towards the 86 of the relay from the clutch bypass. Is that correct? any comments on the ohmmeter reading why it is reversed. does it mean that electricity travels from (-) towards (+)?

evois

Copper - Posts: 56

Joined: July 07, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 30, 2006 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged

the alarm part is working great, it sets off the alarm as soon as I open the door, it triggers the 1st and 2nd stage shock sensor if I knock on the vehicle and also pages me if I use the RPS. Now tackling the remote start is something else. As for the power lock/unlock, I must have used a different wire(+) lock output(blue) PIN#4 instead of (-) lock output PIN#5(blue/black) since it has a (-) polarity. But the install manual says it also doubles as (-) for the (+) and vice versa.

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