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2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips?


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buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 17, 2006 at 2:13 PM / IP Logged  

Hello and i just found this great site!!! Looks to be very informative and i have exhausted the search feature 2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips? -- posted image.

So back on topic. I have a 2005 F150 FX4 supercab truck that i just purchased recently and am going to be doing a remote start and alarm install next Saturday. I just ordered a Scytek  Galaxy 5000 2-way system. Seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Didn't need the $500 AstroStart or Viper systems. If anyone on here has installed this particular system or a general one on my year truck, please let me know if there were any snags for you. I'd like to get everything in order before i start the install, rather than waiting till i tear everything apart and get stuck halfway there. If you have any tips or things that are not often included in the instructions, please let me know.  I've read not to use the plastic T's when splicing into the factory harness. What is the common procedure to do this? Do you cut the harness, slide shrink wrap over one end w/alarm wire, solder the three wires together, and then slide the shrink wrap over the connection and heat it? Or do you just use a razor blade to remove some of the insulation from the factory wire and solder the alarm wire to it, covering it in electrical tape? I know soldering is the way to go, i just want to get the proper procedure down.

Also, does anyone know if my domelight will still fade like factory? Will my headlights/parklights/domelight still come on when i exit the vehicle to walk up to my house or when i unlock the vehicle? That is a nice feature and i hope not to lose it. I've heard that you have to use relays to keep this feature working. If you have any links or info please let me know. Also, it seems that i mainly need to take off the steering column covers and the drivers side kick panel. Are there any other panels that will need to be removed?

Finally, does anyone have any pics of a popular location to mount the brain module/relays and the hood pin switch? Pics would be helpful, but if not then a location would be cool. I'm a little weary drilling holes for the hood pin switch, so i wanna get it right the first time 2005 F150 remote start/alarm, any tips? -- posted image.

Well thanks in advance for all the help and i hope to contribute to this forum in the future!

2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 17, 2006 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  

First off you will not lose or change any of the factory features....the unit is dependant of that, not the other way around.

The main concern on the late model fords is the GEM module. If the system you are installing has a way to "ignore" the domelight delay simply use the  "domelight supervision" wire to tap the door triggers, otherwise you need to double diode isolate the doors which requires you to be on your back for a while. If you don't adhere to this expect false alarms.

Other then that it is not a difficult installation..as far as a hood pin many installers reccomend a tilt sensor but if you locate a good place to mount the hood switch I feel it is quite reliable.

I prefer to use a hunk of clay which will help me determine the height of the switch as well as location. You want to make sure the switch will not be installed along a "water trail" so I would use a pin switch bracket and use the hood bumpers as a reference point, see where it hits the hood visually and you will be fine. Any other questions just post.

Good Luck

Hymer 
Silver - Posts: 695
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 17, 2006 at 4:52 PM / IP Logged  
Easy truck as far as everything goes, just get a good bypass module for the transponder in the key, I recomend an XK04 from bypasskits.com with pkford firmware installed in it. other than that, just solder and tape [3M super 33 ] is sufficient for connections. And test averything with a dmm, if ya run into issues, just yell, the guys on this site are real quick with answers, beats any tech support out there!
Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair
buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 18, 2006 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the help.

Master5, how do i know if my system has a way to "ignore" the domelight delay? Is there a certain wire to look for on the remote start system? From my model's install manual:

Pin 4 BLACK/ WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to the wire that activates the vehicle’s dome light, usually the door pin switch wire. NOTE: The dome light output can usually connect to the same wire used for the door trigger input (see Green and Violet door trigger wires).

I was told by the guy i bought the system from that the factory settings like having the headlights/parklights/domelights stay on after turning the truck off can be made to still work like factory but would require using some relays. I haven't dug too deep into what he was talking about cause i haven't received shipment of the system yet. I've read about people using diodes but wasn't sure the purpose.  Also, i've read that the tilt sensor is used to set off the alarm if the vehicle tilts too far (like a pinball machine). So would this sensor also be used on the hood itself? I've read people using mercury switches but my support guy for the system said mercury switches are unreliable.

Hymer, so i take it that i can just strip some of the insulation back from the factory wire and just twist the added on wire to the bare factory wire and solder that connection? I've been told both ways from my initial post but i'm kinda weary cutting the factory wire. If that solder connection would fail, the factory wire would no longer be intact. The alarm/remote start system came with a bypass module that requires a key. I was told to cut off the metal portion of the key for insurance purposes. I'm not sure of the brand or type though. Thanks again for all of the help!!

2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 19, 2006 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged  

Well depending on the system. With the systems I generally use (DEI) the door trigger INPUT wire can be connected to the domelight supervision wire of the vehicle, then be programmed to ignore the delay. See, what normally will happen on a vehicle like yours is when you close the door the domelight stays on for a length of time. Now if you connect the door trigger input wire of the system to the domelight of the vehicle what happens is the system thinks the door is still open. On the DEI sytems this gives a confimation chirp which doesn't effect the system per say...it still fully arms once the light goes out. But by programming it to ignore the delay all that really happens is a normal arm chirp and the system waits about a minute before it recognizes the door trigger. By that time the light is out and it normally arms and protects the entry points.It does not change anything about the way the vehicle works...this is done as a time saver since on the fords like yours the GEM module needs to be double diode isolated to avoid false alarms and those wires are a little difficult to access...but can be done if you choose so. I normally use the domelight wire and program to ignore the delay..just makes sense to me. But if you choose to go to the GEM module you do not worry about the domelight delay since these wires are before the delay circuit..basically right from the door switchs, just more of a pain to do it that way on most newer fords IMO.

As far as the domelight supervision OUTPUT wire of your system what that does is turn on the interior light upon disarming of the system,,,to me a waste since the light comes on when you open the door automatically.However some vehicles also turn the light on automatically upon unlock anyhow so this feature may work automatically with no additional wiring. I believe this feature is added as an option for "safety" but IMO if someone was hiding in the vehicle it would be strange that they broke in just to wait for the owner and the light coming on would do any good..well I thinks it's silly. If your that paraniod just keep an attack dog in the vehicle all night and carry a large polo mallet around.

"I was told by the guy i bought the system from that the factory settings like having the headlights/parklights/domelights stay on after turning the truck off can be made to still work like factory but would require using some relays."

This is where I think there is confusion. If your truck is designed from the factory to leave the lights on after the truck is off I don't see why this still won't happen by installing an aftermarket security. You will be tapping into certain wires in your vehicle but you won't be changing any of the normal factory functions..if anything you will be adding functions if you so choose, but I see no way that you should lose any existing functions. What may happen is the lights will turn off automatically once you arm the system since the doors will lock. If thats the case and you are concerned simply wait before you arm the system..the range of the remote should allow for this..or program the system to "passively" arm and lock..this way it waits for a length of time and arms/locks automatically..you will not need to press the remote until you disarm. I see no need for relays in this case.

I don't like tilt switches unless it is a sophisticated electronic type because a simple tilt or mercury switch has no way of knowing if the vehicle is on a hill so it either can false or not work when needed..it is a lazy and cheap way to protect anything IMO. Use a quality pinswitch and put a dab of grease on it every few months..if installed properly(away from water) I have found years of reliable service can be expected..some vehicles have a factory hoodpin as well and you can tie in to that in most cases. BTW I recently read that the US gov. is limiting the use of mercury so mercury tilts will be obsolte eventually.

Yes, you will strip back the insulation and solder your connections for reliability. If your connection goes bad it should not effect the vehicle because you are not cutting the wire...just tapping into it for the signal. However, the starter kill will require cutting the factory crank wire so be extra careful with that one or you might get stuck one day. What I do is after I solder my connections I insulate with quality electrical tape (3m super 33) and then put a zip tie around it so the tape will never come off and the connection has more integrity. And yes to the key..when using bypass modules that require part if the key you can cut the metal or what I do is take it to a grinder...not so much for insurance purposes per say but in the rare event a thief was to find the module at least they would not be able to start the vehicle with the key itself.

Hope I helped

1lowgalant 
Copper - Posts: 116
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 19, 2006 at 1:13 PM / IP Logged  
yes, the mercury switch is no more. there is a new switch out that is almost just like the mercury switch, but instead uses a ball bearing in place of the mercury. everything else master5 stated is right on point. very easy install. don't rush it and you should be fine.
Whatever you do, DO NOT let the white smoke leak out of the wires.....
buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 19, 2006 at 9:42 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks again for the tips and the help. I'm sure i'll be in touch once i begin the install. Hopefully setting an entire day aside should be enough time.
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged  

Hey 1low..wats up?

I have used those ball type tilt sensors before. The problem I have is the same as I stated (hills) but in addition they are even less reliable then the mercury.

What happens is after time the surface of the ball corrodes and will not make a reliable contact. But regardless..even though where I live is basically flat and at sea level, I still don't trust simple tilt sensors. You never know when the vehicle might be parked on an incline/decline or a steep driveway.

I don't know if these are still made but I have a few in my junk box. Alpine had this electronic tilt sensor (I believe retailed for around 100 bucks). Now it does use a ball so the reliabilty is questionable but the unit is well sealed. what it does is remember the angle the vehicle is parked electronically by the position of the ball on the contacts and triggers the alarm if that position is changed...great for towing/rim protection. I believe Ungo had or has a similar product as well but  I recall the older ones utilized mercury so I am not sure what is done now.

However these are not generally used for hood protection per say. I have faith in the good old pinswitch but as stated earlier installation and maintenance is the key for reliability..it is a shame really that most "installers" can not get a simple pinswitch to work properly because IMO there is nothing more reliable for protection of hood /trunk points. Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.

buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 1:05 PM / IP Logged  
master5 wrote:
Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.
Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.
Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
buening 
Member - Posts: 32
Member spacespace
Joined: November 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 20, 2006 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged  
master5 wrote:
Too many install the switch on a bad angle which breaks it in time..the wrong height so it's unreliable..or in a water trail causing a false alarm when wet...and not working when you need it to due to rust at the contacts. Thats what the pinswitch bracket is for but I believe most installers don't use them and this is why they have a bad rap. Of course if the vehicle uses a factory hood/trunk switch this is always the best way to go.
Does anyone have any pics of a "properly" installed hood pin switch on the newer F150 trucks??? That would be of the greatest help right now. Heh, i'm more worried about getting the proper location of the hood pin switch than the actual wiring LOL.
Also, how can one tell if the truck has a factory hood switch. Sorry for such beginner questions, this truck is still pretty new and haven't messed with it much.
2005 Ford F150 FX4 Supercab
2003 Mustang
1970 Mustang Mach 1
1970 Mustang Fastback
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