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'06 Accord won't lock or start


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96hawkcnvt 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  
Hoping for a little help here. Installing a remote start on an '06 Accord. Went to the door module for the arm/disarm. Did blow a fuse (thought I wrecked something) by accidentally grounding the wrong WHITE/ red wire for arm function. But, replace the fuse and everything worked fine last night. So then I connected to the other WHITE/ red that is called out in all wiring diagrams that I have seen. Have not yet connected the remote start yet, just have everything wired up. Used a DVOM etc.
So now, for some reason the car will not arm & lock with the factory remote. Also, the car turns over but won't start. Still need to check more fuses etc. but does anyone here have any ideas of what I can check?
I'd be concerned that I wrecked the MICU or something but like I said, everything seemed to work fine last night and I haven't even connected the remote start yet.
Thanks!
master5 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged  

continue checking all the fuses..don't forget the "mains" under the hood by the battery..the larger ones..one of these if blown will cause a few things not to work.

I see no reason that even if you messed up the door lock factory module it would allow the vehicle to crank but still not run..this means either bad ignition or fuel pump/injector most likely...cross your fingers that it is a fuse.

96hawkcnvt 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged  
Hey thanks for the quick reply. I went out & checked the fuses and all seem okay. Also tried locking with the door switch and it would not work. Could I have somehow damaged the switch module in the door?
master5 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  

yes, unfortunatly it is possible..they are very delicate circuits..which is why you have to be extra careful..but you slipped up..it happens to us all one time or another.

Now if all the fuses are good the simplist thing to do is get ahold of another door module and plug it in..see if it works. However, if you don't have any connections at Honda parts or service they may not just give you one to try..and normally they won't return electronics.

If this is the case you might have a chance to warranty it but if they see any signs you were there...and they decide to be dicks etc..they may not warranty it..it's thier call. if you go this route try to hide and cover up anything you did and tell them it just stopped working for no reason..and no one touched the car..trust me on this one.

I also don't see how the door module would effect the vehicle from running..did you figure that out yet?/ maybe it's just out of gas.? sounds stupid but I find it's the simplest things that are often overlooked.

swamprat323 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
if you check all fuses and they were good, take the car to the dealer, make sure you remove all iteasm you put in dotn tell them waht you did they may warranty the work, just maybe, play dumb :)
master5 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 8:52 PM / IP Logged  

One other thing..you said you check all the fuses and they all seem ok?  "seem" is not good enough...check every fuse..there will be at least one fuse panal in the car..maybe 2 or more..and at least one under the hood. when I say check them I mean with a meter..not by visual..you can not always tell a bad fuse by looking at it..and you need to check the owners manual to find out where all the fuse panals are. Believe me it's worth the effort because the other options could be expensive. If it ends up it is only a fuse and it goes to the dealer they may charge a fortune just to find the blown fuse..then labor to replace it...then like 20 bucks for the fuse..yes..they do this all the time.

Now if it is a fuse and you find it yourself it will cost almost nothing.

96hawkcnvt 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 9:02 PM / IP Logged  
master5 wrote:

One other thing..you said you check all the fuses and they all seem ok? "seem" is not good enough...check every fuse..there will be at least one fuse panal in the car..maybe 2 or more..and at least one under the hood. when I say check them I mean with a meter..not by visual..

Yeah, I did check them with a meter. Should have been more clear about that. I'll go through things again and see if I might have missed something.
Doesn't make sense to me that it won't start either. Not out of gas. Just seems strange that they would be completely seperate issues.
I appreciate the suggestions of hiding things & turning it in for warranty. I'll go ahead and take responsibility for what I've done. Anyway, it would be difficult to completely hide what I've done if they look into it.
Just to verify the wiring for arm/disarm, can anyone verify the exact terminal numbers at the connector on the module?
Thanks
swamprat323 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 9:19 PM / IP Logged  
could blown the door module that also has the arm and dis arm.
did you hook up any bypass kits maybe that not conect rigth and not alow the car to start only crank
master5 
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Posted: November 25, 2006 at 9:20 PM / IP Logged  

best I can do:

 

Factory Alarm Arm  blue/white to WHITE/ red   -   driver door module in door 

Factory Alarm Disarm  BLACK/ red to white   -   driver door module in door 

Power Lock  pink/black   -   MICU, green plug, pin 25 

Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.

Power Unlock  pink/blue   -   MICU, green plug, pin 9 

Notes: The MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) is part of the underdash fuse/relay box.

The plug(s) for the MICU is on the left side edge of the fuse/relay box.

Meter this wire while pressing the passenger door lock switch.

96hawkcnvt 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: November 19, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 25, 2006 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  
swamprat323 wrote:
could blown the door module that also has the arm and dis arm.
did you hook up any bypass kits maybe that not conect rigth and not alow the car to start only crank
You know, you just helped me figure out why it isn't starting. Duh, I feel like a dope.
Was convinced that since I hadn't plugged anything in (except my anti-grind relay) that it should work as normal. Well, the bypass kit is wired, but not plugged in. The ECM ign. feed to the ign. switch is cut for the wiring to the bypass. Will not see any signal until I plug in (& program) the bypass.
Anyone have a thought as to if that will make a difference on the lock/arm issue?
Back to the garage to hook up the bypass.
Thanks Swamprat323!
Todd
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