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2006 T 4Runner, Scytek Galaxy 5000RS-2W-1


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coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged  
Hello,
I am trying to install Scytek Galaxy 5000RS-2W-1 on a 2006 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited. It has a factory keyless entry and factory alarm. Everything has hooked up okay with the exception of the door lock and door unlock. I have found what I believe are the two wires coming out of a 13 wire plug that the other side is going into the door. The two wires are blue/red (lock) and blue/black (unlock). These two pulse positive when you press the inside switch or turn the key in the door. Using relays to reverse the polarity (turn your neg pulse into a pos pulse), as soon as I press either lock or unlock, the fuse providing power to the relays blows. I had a installer check my wiring and he agrees they are wired correctly. We have checked wiring diagrams from a few websites. Some have suggested these colors, some have suggested blue (power lock) and green (power unlock). We could not find any blue or green wires on either side of the door plugs that react in any way to the inside switch or key in door. Do you have any suggestions as to wiring or colors or other locations to find better wires? Perhaps we are just missing something, but it's kicking our butts and my wife is ready to have all the wires put up and vehicle running.
Thank you,
Coach
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 6:46 AM / IP Logged  
You have the wrong wires. You need to remove the relays and wire the alarm lock pulses directly to the green and blue wires in the drivers door harness. They are negative pulse locks. If you look at the large harness nearest the door jamb, part if it splits off and runs to two white plugs that are taped together, then exit thru the jamb towards the door. The green unlock wire will require two pulses(the first unlocks drivers, the second the rest). Test these wires using the key in the door. The wires you have are the motor leg wires...
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 6:53 PM / IP Logged  
Mike, Thanks, you were dead on. I don't know how we missed them. I have tried several different searches and I am surprised that others haven't asked for this one (or I can't search). I would like to turn on the heated mirrors on aux 1 output(for our Texas ice)on the Scytek. An installer told me it was either on the back of the defog switch or a GREEN/ red wire on the ECU. I don't know how to get to the back of the defog switch and it doesn't look easy. I found three GREEN/ red wires in the connectors that are behind the glove box, but none seem to change states when the button is pushed and the light lights. So, here I am again, begging, is there a better desc or wire color or location or is this too silly to try to hook up. Any and all help would be appreciated.
Coach
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
I have never tried this so i can't help. I can tell you how to get to the back of the heater controls if that helps. The pocket below them pops out. Open it and pull upwards to remove. There's a 10mm bolt behind it at the top, remove it. Now the entire heater controls will pop straight out...
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
throwback2332 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2005
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 7:36 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks again mike, coach hows it going? Be able to drive to work saturday, Did you ever finish the immobilizer?
If it's not custom, then it's not you.
coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
Mike, Thanks again. I got the switch exposed, it was kind of a tense moment deciding how hard to pull once the bolt was removed. I am going to try to start figuring out the conn on the back.
Coach
coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 24, 2007 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  
Not compleatly, if I twist both wires together, it starts. If I don't twist, it won't. So, it will work once the relay is connected....maybe.
It was the battery earlier, the system works for the most part. I could drive it Sat, as long as I am very careful where to put my feet. Ha Ha If this is who I think it is, thanks for all your help.
Coach
coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 30, 2007 at 11:07 AM / IP Logged  
Mike, Throwback,
Thanks for all the help. I wanted to publish what I figured out so the next person with a 4Runner will know. I found the rear window defogger - mirror heater wire on the connector that is mounted on the back of the heater control PC board. This was the board that Mike talked about by removing the 10mm bolt. It is a 14 pin connector, GREEN/ red wire, that is triggered by a pulse of ground or (-). One pulse - on, next pulse - off, etc. I used the Aux 2 (neg pulse) running straight to it, to trigger it. This will only work if the 4 Runner is running and the rear window is up. It works, but while driving it found that with the climate control system off, the air flow directional selector is still lit up. I don't think this is how it was before the install. I plan on the next break I have from work, using the output from the Scytek to control a relay that will be connected between the GREEN/ red wire and the WHITE/ black which is ground. This is what I found when I ohmed out the switch with the wires disconnected. I may have taken the easy way by just connecting the output.
I was also able to run the rear window down like the factory remote does. With the heater controls removed you can push the rear window switch out from the dash, unhook and reconnect the wires to test. The BLACK / YELLOW wire is 12V positive (+) and the rear window switch connects that to either yellow/red (to go up) or BLACK/ blue (to go down). I tapped into the BLACK/ blue using a relay to convert the neg output to a positive pulse. This worked, but it only goes down so you have to get in and run it up from the inside. I'm out of outputs on the Scytek, but Throwback had a good idea: Aux 1 - down window and Aux 2 - up window + rear defogger/mirrow heater. In the winter, the rear window won't go up if it's already up (so the defog will come on) and in the summer, the rear defog won't come on if the rear window is anything but all the way up. It's worth a try and the next chance I have, I'll try it and report back. That is if the modulators don't ban me for such a long response. LOL Sorry this is so long, but maybe it will help out the next guy.
Coach
coach1962 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: January 30, 2007 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  
Does anybody know wfere I can find the hood pin wire on a 2006 Toyota 4Runner Limited? The guides say that the wire is pink/green. I can't find the hood pin (believe me, it's hidden well) and I can't find any pink/green wires that respond to the hood being popped open. I even tested it (to make sure there was one) by sitting in the drivers seat, arming the factory alarm, waiting 60 seconds, and popping the hood release (with ear protection on). Presto the alarm was activated. I know I could run my own pin and wire, but why drill, run wires, punch holes if you don't have to. Has anybody else hooked up to this factory wire?
Thanks,
Coach
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: January 30, 2007 at 11:55 AM / IP Logged  
Here it is: Hoodpin Pic
Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
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