05 tahoe tach wire at injector

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peterubers

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Joined: December 29, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged

DCman -- you ARE the man .. i've been pulling my hair for weeks trying to figure this one out .. luckily the customer is my g/f and she's very understanding .. will do what you've said -- was about to get a new STARTER (i.e. OEM nissan starter) and install it myself .. you saved me getting under the car to do annoying work.

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copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:21 PM / IP Logged

Twelvoltz wrote:

OK, this may open me up for some flaming, but I will say it anyway. Using the DEI product(I am sure it is true of other brands too but I can only speak of DEI) your truck does not need a tach wire connection. Set your unit for voltage sensing, set the voltage sensing to low (options 3-2 and 3-6) and set your crank time (option 3-5) to two seconds. Your truck's computer will prevent the starter from over cranking.

Yes, on MOST vehicles the tachometer is the best way to go, but with your truck the vehicle takes over.

To the Nissan reference, you should be using a tachometer connection or injector...but to not starting in extreme cold..did you hook up both starter wires?

Thanks Twelvoltz. I have never been a fan of voltage sensing but I will give it a try. Just FYI the truck refuses to start on first attempt regardless if it is cold or warm. I would say it only occurs 1 out of 10 times you start it but the customer is not that patient waiting for us to fix it. I will update this post after I try what you suggest.

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged

Twelvoltz wrote:

Yes, on MOST vehicles the tachometer is the best way to go, but with your truck the vehicle takes over.

To the Nissan reference, you should be using a tachometer connection or injector...but to not starting in extreme cold..did you hook up both starter wires?

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged

No good. Tried everything suggested and truck doesn't want to keep running on first attempt (warm or cold starts). I have switched tach wires, reprogrammed numerous times, tried voltage sense with extended crank time, re-grounded module, and disabled engine monitoring. No dice. Cust in wizED and I don't know what to tell him. I thougt it could be a bad 1700G but the security light is not doing anything unexpected after remote starting. Any other suggestions ?? DEI tech cannot provide me with any answers other than it is the trucks fault, not their product !!!

Hopefully the customer will deal with the issue since I installed remote seat recall, heated seat activation, and rear defrost for no charge off channels 2,4, and 5.

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

Hymer

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Joined: November 20, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:45 PM / IP Logged

What is the idle speed RPM of the truck? Is there any codes poping? I never have had a problem with any chev trucks giving me a tough time..

Tire Proz Stillwater Mn

High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged

I don't have access to our bitwriter right now. Idle is around 800 - 1k RPM

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

Hymer

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Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 4:59 PM / IP Logged

That should be more than adequate for an rs to see th truck is running on the 1st attempt. This may sound like a dumb idea, but have you tried running a new tach wire to the brain? Or at least ohming it out to see if there is a high resistance or mabey a kink or knick in the wire?

Tire Proz Stillwater Mn

High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 5:06 PM / IP Logged

Hymer wrote:

No, I have never had something like that cause a problem but it cannot hurt to try that. What about the keysense wire on the 1700G. I was told NOT to connect it but do you think that could be part of the problem? I had read in several forums that connecting this wire was causing issues with full size GM trucks so I did not connect it.

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

Hymer

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Joined: November 20, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: February 20, 2007 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged

I don't use the 1700g or have I ever, but I don' connect a keysense wire at all, unless doing an alarm. I always use the gmdlp or gmbp for those trucks...

Tire Proz Stillwater Mn

High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

copout221

Copper - Posts: 69

Joined: November 23, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: March 12, 2007 at 12:54 PM / IP Logged

UPDATE: Removed the 1700G and replace it with a new XK01 from Bypasskit / Trilogix. Truck is still not starting on first attempt but will always fire up on second attempt. I am totally stumped by this. I have even tried wiring a relay in from the GWR to trip the bypass with a solid ground signal from the chassis with no luck. It does this in voltage sensing also !!! Any other ideas ? I am starting to think the 5900 brain may have a problem. My next option is to program the wait to start option which seems to work at the factory 15 second setting. Maybe I can use a bitwriter to program the wait to start to 5 seconds and there will be a short delay before the R/S kicks in.

Don't fool with it if you don't know what it is !!

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