2005 toyota camry remote start/door locks

Sorry for my typo with valet "switches." It is a single valet switch/alarm LED. I've never seen anything quite like it, but it is a plastic switch that has an LED integrated into it.I'm green, but not that bad fellas...It is a factory or dealer installed alarm (yes, it's a Toyota alarm). I bought the car brand new - and it most certainly DOES NOT have a remote starter or the ability to add one on.Thank you for mentioning the shock sensor etc. on it.I never really thought about that... but the shock sensor is not sensitive at all from having seen neighborhood idiot kids hit it with footballs before while the alarm was armed. It is a "glass breaking sensor, it's not very sensitive at all," according to the dealership salesman (the same guy that tried to convince me that the spoiler, weak ass %35 tint, and the painted mirrors on the LE vs. the plain "ugly black ones" on the base model increased my future car's value by $3000 over the base model !)J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

Hey guys, there is a second ignition and a second starter wire. There are two separe wires in the ignition harness, and both of them are the exact same color and are listed separately on the diretchwire chart.I assume that if the manufacturer wanted them to be one and the same, that they would have been wired together and jumpered @ the pigtail harness. Do I need to wire these separately?Thanks a lot guys.By the way, I disconnected the factory alarm. It had an in-line harness to the ignition harness which I disconnected as well as removed the fuse holder from the factory alarm. I don't think the factory alarm will cause any further issues with the install now.

baseem wrote: J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

It shouldn't. I've done a couple Camry's using that wire and I never had a problem. I was using DEI product at the time. The light shuts off immediately which is why there is not a problem.

baseem wrote: J Worn: Using the key cylinder light, if it turns off when locked would still trigger an "open door" warning on the alarm when arming/locking, right?

Depends on the brand of alarm you're installing. Many late-model alarms also have some method of "teaching" the delay time to the alarm, or turning off the open-door warning altogethe

baseem wrote: Hey guys, there is a second ignition and a second starter wire. There are two separe wires in the ignition harness, and both of them are the exact same color and are listed separately on the diretchwire chart. I assume that if the manufacturer wanted them to be one and the same, that they would have been wired together and jumpered @ the pigtail harness. Do I need to wire these separately? Thanks a lot guys. By the way, I disconnected the factory alarm. It had an in-line harness to the ignition harness which I disconnected as well as removed the fuse holder from the factory alarm. I don't think the factory alarm will cause any further issues with the install now.

1. Yes, definitely two separate wires.The car needs to have both ignitions powered up, as well as both starter wires. You can get away with jumping the car's two starter wires together, but it is considered improper, and it would be better to trigger the second-starter wire separately with a relay.2. The Toyota dealer-installed alarms I've seen, have a small panel installed with the LED and the glass-break sensor's microphone. Haven't seen an LED with a built-in pushbutton on a Toyota. Do you have any paperwork with the alarm? Is it called VIP3000 or VIP3200 or something like that?As I recall, Toyota factory alarms don't get a shock sensor. The costlier 3200 does get the glass-break sensor, but that shouldn't be triggered by the remote starter.-------------------------------If it were my car, I'd probably leave the factory alarm in place---two would be better than one.Here are a couple of quick tests you can make:First, familiarize yourself with the factory alarm LED and how it operates. When you lock the car, the LED should come on solid for 30 seconds......this indicates that the alarm is arming. (It isn't armed yet.) After 30 seconds, the LED will begin to flash; the alarm is now armed.Here's what you want to do.For the moment, forget the factory remote; don't touch it.1. If you close all the doors, hood, and trunk, and use the KEY to lock the cars doors from the OUTSIDE, does the alarm arm?2. If you use the KEY to unlock the doors from the OUTSIDE, does the alarm disarm?3. If you sit inside the car, close everything, arm the alarm with the remote (and wait 30 seconds).........insert the key in the ignition and start the car......does the alarm automatically turn off?---If 1 and 2 are true, then your blue / YELLOW and blue wires will also arm/disarm the factory alarm whenever you use the aftermarket remote.---If 3 is true, connecting a "ground-when-running" output from the remote start, to the car's keysense wire, will disarm the factory alarm when remote starting.

Hello everyone,I know this is about my millionth question regarding my Camry's alarm... but here it goes:I installed the alarm today. Everything was going pretty well except when I got the second starter wire. I knew I shouldn't just "jump" across from the second starter wire to the main starter wire, so... I did what I thought be "OK" and cut the second starter wire and soldered a diode in-line. Then, I connected a jumper wire between the starter wire and the second starter wire on the anode side of the diode.Car still started fine and I was about to finish the door triggers and lock wires, but then I noticed that the airbag light was on when the car was started. Of course, knowing of the horror stories of airbag system gone awry on alarm installs, I was panicked. Tried a bunch of troubleshooting and wound up just putting everything completely back to stock, including removing the in-line diode I had put on the second starter wire. Everything was good-to-go after that.So I'm guessing that the diode must add some weird resistance to the line that the ECU (I presume what the second starter wire comes from) doesn't like. Anyone know for sure?I was far too nervous to continue after that episode, so I must HAVE to relay this second starter wire?Any advice would be helpful, and as always, I appreciate everyone's input and assistance.

You must use a relay for second starter. Jumping the wire will cause the AM1 fuse to blow over time(i've seen it take months before it goes). As for the airbag, my guess is something else lit it other than the starter wire. On Toyotas, simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the light.Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services