r/s bypass output w/ starting

Thats alright..as confusing as it seems...there really is not that much to a remote start...there are installers that have built these themselves using nothing but a handfull of relays.

All the unit really does is makes the connections at the ignition switch wires like when you turn the key..But it only does what is nessecary to allow crank..run and accesory for the HVAC. It should work fine..might have a few bugs here and there but it is not rocket science..good learning experience for you as well.

Keep us posted.

If it doesn't recognize the remote it might need re-programming. But first use a DMM to check the basics...make sure the 12v constant is good..the ground is good..and the ignition wire is good.

If those 3 connections alone are wired correctly, with the key OFF, the system should respond to the remote..if not it needs reprogramming.....or it is defective. Those directions are a bit scary..even on the negative when armed starter kill output wire (orange)..it states it is for starter kill...yet..shows a picture of an OLD, old school ignition coil..and says to connect it to the "distributor". Now this tells me the designer of this system..or at least whomever wrote the diagram, has not worked on a vehicle newer then the early 1980's at best., or is totally clueless. this is what you are up against.

But..when or "if" (sorry) you get the system responding and operating here is how to check the starter kill (please do NOT cut any coil or distributor wires).

Ok....you cut the starter wire (shows 12v+ when the key is in crank ONLY) and you have 2 sides (I assume you have got this far). So now you have 2 sides of a wire..one side from the key...one side goes out to the starter solinoid..typically refered to as "motor side".

The orange is negative when you arm..set for normally closed as you know already. The relay will have numbers on the bottom where the terminals are so you may need to unplug it to see these.

It can work a few ways so I will list them all.  Ok, the orange will usually be on 85 (coil) but it could work on 86 (also coil). If the orange wire is on 85...make sure 86 is connected to the KEY side of the starter wire. Now....make sure 30 is also on the key side as well,...30 is a high current "common" contact so the wire on that should be heavy gauge, the jumper over to 86 can be small, doesn't really matter. 87a goes to the MOTOR side. 87 is not used, that is for normally open which you can not do with this system. IF the orange wire goes to 86... the KEY side jumper wire should be on  85..it will work either way as long as the socket is wired properly. All you really need to do is probe the socket wires to make sure it is wired properly and making good connections. I can only assume it comes with a cheap socket if any so those quite often have poor crimps or the terminals pop out of the socket and don't make a good contact with the relay..you must check all that.

If you need to PM me that is fine, I know master5 and there is a problem with his account activation so he told me he can't get to his inbox or respond to any posts until it's fixed.

Got your PM ..

You don't have to worry about doing any damage by NOT connecting all the wires. It is connecting to the wrong wires..or pokin around unknown circuits and wires with test lights that is a problem. If you only connect one acc wire, and it needs 2 or more (doubtful) it will not harm anything, but the HVAC may not work with the RS..but will still be fine with the key.

Ok I am going to give you a trick of the trade..but don't tell anyone....lol..well alot of people know this. Take a fuse holder and put a 10amp fuse in it. Connect one side to constant 12v thick wire at ign. harness. Now splice back some insulation on the thick wires that you KNOW by testing with a DMM are the accessory wire(s). Now simply touch the other side of the fuse wire to the acc wires one at a time and see which one turns on the fan. If niether one does..you need them both. The vehicle does not need to be running to do this test. The fuse is there in case you touch ground..lots of metal under there ya know..better to blow a cheapo 10amp fuse then a main under the hood.

Now wasn't that easy??  Don't give up just because that truck is a pain..just think if you get this right the next won't seem so bad..one way to look at it.

Ok it's up to you bro....but if you need a 2nd acc relay it is easy..just do this....connect 86 to the first acc..any ga.wire...connect 85 to to gound, any ga. wire. connect 30 to constant heavier gauge wire, connect 87 to 2nd acc.,heavier ga. wire. 87a not used...very basic.