reverse polarity with a twist.

Here is the breakdown on the switch.  I should have done this earlier.  There is power and ground going in and the one wire per switch coming out, along with two other wires that are a little uniqe as well.  The orange wire is hot when any of the switches are up.  The other wire is for the forward and back positions of the joystick that I am not using.  The Orange wire might be the solution as a signal wire to some relays to isolate the up from the down signal.  I tried that and ended up using the wires strait to the down valves and the up valves through two relays that interupted the up signal to the up valves.  I used the orange wire to activate the relays to let the signal through when one up switch was activated.  But again as soon as one up valve activated both valves ended up activating.  I ended up with independant control of the front and rear down, but either up switch took the whole car up.

That is my solution just wire the switch the way you need it to work. All of the wires are used and it functions with no power drain.

Gotta go to bed now.

We are close.  The big problem is bothe switches have a common power and ground.  This would only give one set of outputs instead of two.