major problem with rsx doorlocks

It's ok to take ANY fuse out and just inspect it.  don't worry.  They are made to be taken out and placed back in the slot.  I would physically use a pair of needle nose pliers and take them out and inspect them.  I betcha its either that 7.5A fuse under the dash or the one directly in front of it in-line under the hood.  They are the mini-blade type fuses, btw, in case you go and buy one from radioshack or pepboys, etc. 

If you do find the fuse to be blown .. and when you put the new fuse in .. it may do 1 of 2 things:

1) it'll blow right away .. indicates there is a more serious short circuit than previously expected

2) it'll keep the doorlocks working fine .. but may eventually blow again .. in which case it'll be important but not urgent to find that short circuit

best of luck

After re-reading that circuit on page 22-156 (page 1307 of adobe), I think i got it backwards:

In the IG1 "HOT" position, the following fuses are being used to deliver power:

Under hood: Fuse #19 and #20 (100A and 40A respectively), Under dash: Fuse #10 (7.5A)

In the IG1 in the not "HOT" position (i.e. during the circumstance where YOU are having the problem/issue), the following fuses are being used to deliver power to the keyless/doorlock system:

Under hood: Fuse #9 and 16 (7.5A and 15A respectively) (***CHECK these first***) (no under-dash fuses for this part of the system)

I now think that fuse #9 and/or #16 are your problem ... b/c according to the diagram these are the circuits that are used when the system is not being powered with the key being in IG position II or III.

When you blow enough fuses, as I have, you get good at reading EWD's and schematics, LOL!

Well, even though a negative signal is needed to "activate" the doorlock motor .. the doorlock motor itself still needs a positive 12 volts (and some type of current) to activate the actuator to pull down that door lock.  Perhaps something in the ultrastart brain is causing that negative signal to be prolonged  .. therefore prolonging the current that's going through the doorlock actuators .. therefore blowing a fuse under the hood or dash.

Alternative theory is that  an OEM wire has been compressed/pinched/eroded secondary to your remote start/alarm installation .. and over time .. it caused a doorlock power wire (12 volts) to short .. or be grounded to the chassis metal component and therefore allowed way too much current to flow through the in-line fuse .. causing the fuse to blow.  When any OEM 12 volt power supply wire touches ground (or a metal component of the chassis which serves at ground) .. it allows all the current the battery can generate to flow through that circuit.  Fuses are a safeguard against allowing all 550-700amps of the battery from flowing through a wiring circuit in which the wire can only handle about 5-30 amps (alternator and start wires in the engine bay can handle much more amperage/current obviously).  The fuse allows only a certain amoutn of current (i.e. 7.5 amps for example) to flow before "blowing."

Less likely still, but still a possiblity is that something in the Acura system itself has finally decided to be defective .. and your alarm is not the culprit... this is highly unlikely only b/c I don't think this is a common issue at all on the '06 RSX's ..

Sorry if this is info that you already know, hopefully it helps you isolate your issue.