2002 ford explorer, viper 791xv

I am installing a Viper 791XV and I got the wiring diagram from here. The problem I am having as of right now is the power door lock wires. I see both the pink / YELLOW and pink/lt. green wires at the the power door lock switch on the door but I cannot for the life of me find the same wires in the kick panel. I'd be pulling my hair out if I had any! Please help.

Have you removed both the kick panel, and the doorsill panel? There's just one bundle of wires, running to the back of the car.....they're in there, for sure. A lot of wires there to fish through, but they're there.

Thanks for your reply. I just ran them from the drivers door panel. For whatever reason though I cannot get the power door locks to work. I have tried every wire from the door lock harness and nothing. The factory keyless still works but that doesn't help a lot. I also have to wait to arm the alarm because of the dome light supervision because if the light is still on when I arm it, it thinks the door is open. This alarm is driving me crazy but I just can't see paying $300 to $400 to have it installed. Any additional help would be extra helpful.SubLinX Technologies

1. Should just be the two lock/unlock wires (green and blue, in the small 3-pin plug) straight from the Viper to the car. No relays, diodes, resistors, or any of that. (If a 451M relay pack was included with the Viper, it isn't needed; save it for another project.) Two troubleshooting questions you should work on: --What happens if you take the wires you ran into the door, and touch them to the car's chassis ground? If that doesn't work the doors, you have the wrong wires. --What happens if you test the outputs of the Viper? You want to make sure it's a good unit. 2. Go into the programming menu, and there's something in there called "open zone notification" or something like that.....turn it off. That'll stop the second chirp. Also, if you choose to just live with the second chirp, it won't hurt anything. The car is still protected after the domelight goes out.

Thanks again. Because of your hep I got them working. Last question. I found the orange and green wire and the purple and yellow wire in the rear loom for the back glass release but I cannot get it to work. I have used a relay with positive and negative and still nothing. Same thing goes with the dome light supervision. Used the relay like the manual says but it doesn't do like the factory keyless that shuts if of when armed and turns it on when you disarm. What could I be doing wrong.SubLinX Technologies

The purple / YELLOW glass release wire, I usually get it where it comes out from under the driver's seat, and then runs to the rear of the car........there's not very much slack there, but just enough. Troubleshooting: --The wire in the car should test as positive when using the factory remote. If not, you have the wrong wire. --The output from the relay should test as positive when using the Viper's remote. If not, the relay is wired wrong, or you're using the wrong output from the Viper. (I would use the RED / white channel 2, the trunk-release output.) Domelight supervision: At the dashboard dimmer switch (where you can also get parking lights) is the ORANGE / green domelight turn-on wire........it tests as a ground when you rotate the dash dimmer to the topmost position. This wire is low current, and no relay is required. You can connect the BLACK/ white domelight supervision output from the Viper directly. But if you've chosen to use a relay, that won't hurt anything. Unfortunately, the Viper has no real way of forcing the Ford to do something it doesn't want to do. Yes, locking with the factory remote turns out the domelight right away. That it most likely a function of the car's body computer, and not something you can easily access. All the Viper is doing (as you know) is pulsing the pink / YELLOW lock wire...........which is the exact same thing as if you closed the door and pressed the lock button with your finger. On some cars, that turns the domelight out, and on some others, it doesn't. As a last resort, look through the owner's manual and see what kind of personalization options your car has. You may be able to change the amount of domelight delay.

Ok I found out that one of the cables I ran somehow was not sending the signal from the viper to the rear glass. When I replaced the cable the rear glass works on channel 2. When I removed my dashboard dimmer switch I only found one that was close to the one you were talking about. It is a greenish-blue with an orange stripe but it tests as 12V and doesn't work. On that harness I have greenish blue/white, greenish-blue/orange, RED / yellow, GREEN/ violet, WHITE/ pink/light blue/black, black, tanish/white. I am so irritated.SubLinX Technologies

Hmm.... greenish blue/orange stripe, that still sounds about right? Tests as 12V when? With the switch in the off (normal) position, yes, it'll test as 12 volts.   But when you rotate the switch all the way up, to turn on the domelight, it should test as ground at that time. If you're not sure if that's the right wire, it would take just a moment to test all the wires at the switch.

I will just test them like you said. If I hook up all of the remote start wires including the 2 for 12v power, 1 to the starter side, 1 to the accessory,  1 to the ignition, 1 to the brake switch, 1 hood pin switch and then ground the neutral switch wire, shouldn't it remote start as along as I have a key in the ignition switch? I don't have the bypass yet but I thought it would still work with the key in the ignition. This way I can know if it works before ordering the Ford bypass module.SubLinX Technologies

Yes, that'll work. You didn't mention the tach wire. You'll need to either A, connect the tach wire and "learn" the tach rate to the remote starter, or B, leave the tach wire for later, and program your unit for voltage sense.