door lock module, 2003 durango

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tedmond

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Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 7:21 AM / IP Logged

Hey man, hows it goin. that good that you got the CHDL3-PK all in one from bypasskits. cant go wrong witht that company. Im pretty sure you dont want your hatch to open when you unlock. From your alarm/start unit simply connect the WHITE/ BLACK and connect it to the ORANGE(-) wire on the CHDL3-PK. The CHDL3-PK will do everything else for you. Its purpose is to eliminate the use of wires. only 2 wires are output wires. The VIOLET wire you connect from the bypass to the car will do everything else for you. and the other is to dissable your OEM/factory alarm. if you have more questions, dont be afraid to ask; glad to help.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 4:26 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the quick reply again... the WHITE/ BLACK wire from the RS unit is labeled as the "hood/trunk pin input(-)" and the GRAY wire from the RS is labeled the "Aux 1 output(-)500ma" and says connect to a relay for an optional feature such as trunk release,etc. I am guessing I should connect the orange from the bypass to the gray and not the WHITE/ BLACK. Right?

Also I'm totally lost on where to connect the ORANGE from the RS unit that is labeled "armed output(-)500ma and says, (provides ground output while armed to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection or window rollup".

Thanks man, gonna try to throw this all in today as soon as I figure out where these two wires go.

Also I was trying to think the easiest way to jump 12+to ignition wires for programming the bypass kit. Got any tips, I have a spare key with no chip in it think i can just use that to turn the ig on instead of tapping into power and then jumping that into all the ign wires? ...just a thought might work easier.

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged

oh man, sorry for the WAY toooo early reply, eyes were still asleep lol. Im glad you didnt proceed. Okay here, the WHITE/ BLACK on the RS unit is for a hood pin/truck pin (triggers alarm if hood is open and wont allow remote start. If you have a hood pin wired, and you want to wire that with your Truck light as your trigger, diode Isolate both wires. Now, the correct way is to connect the Auxillary Output 1 GREY to the ORANGE wire on the bypass module. So yes you are correct. Im sorry for not reading properly.

The ORANGE Ground out when armed is used for starter Kills. if you have a relay, connect like so. follow the steps.

sounds confusing as **** but just follow those steps and you are set.

1) Cut starter wire in half, leave some wire to work with.

2) Connect ORANGE (-) when armed from RS to relay Terminal 85

3) Connect Starter wire (MOTOR SIDE) AND Remote Start WIRE together. Wire to relay Terminal 87a

4) Connect Starter Key Side (ignition cylinder) wire to relay Terminal 30

5) Connect Jumper Cable from relay Terminal 86 to relay Terminal 30

6) Place Diode across relay Terminal 85 and 86 (diode with white Line to Terminal 85)

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 6:53 PM / IP Logged

now the other question you had. I think the only way to do it PROPERLY is to connect it to the wires on your IGNITION SWITCH, to be honest, do what the company says to do lol. You ONLY have ONE chance to program the bypass...if you mess up, i dont think there is a way to clear it. Bypasskits are very well known and awsome units, but i have not used many before so i cant say they are the best, they probably are, but i dont agree to anything i havnt used or seen.

Good luck.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged

cool thanks, I don't think I need a starter kill so I'm not going to connect that one if I don't have too. thanks again.... going out to start now so i'll let you know how it goes

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 21, 2007 at 9:37 PM / IP Logged

you dont really need a starter kill, but it sure is nice to have, never know if anyone is going to hotwire your car. well its 10 and your gonna wire your alarm/starter? well at least you save a few hours with that bypasskit =D well good luck to you bud. If anything, just ask, glad to help.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 12:01 AM / IP Logged

LOL, a little bit earlier over here in Alaska. it's 9 now and got everything connected and ready to program the bypass in a few mins. So far so good door lock module, 2003 durango - Page 2 -- posted image.

door lock module, 2003 durango - Page 2 -- posted image.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 3:03 AM / IP Logged

All done. For the most part everything is working as it should. Only issues are:

1. when running in remote start there is no power for the heater/defroster. (i think i may have hooked up the wrong accessory wire since there are 2)

2. The parking lights are suppose to come on when remote starting or flash when arming/disarming and do not. (not sure on this one... I connected into the vehicles BLACK/ red wire from the switch for parking lights.

What do you think is wrong with the parking lights?

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 2:46 PM / IP Logged

GOOD JOB MAN ! 5 hours and your done your first alarm (member to thank the bypass) it saved you ENOUGH time .

alright, now for your parking lights, the wiring is wrong. What i have here on SCYTEK's wiring database is the BLACK / YELLOW. you have BLACK/ red. close, but not the function you need. Also, your heater/blower motor will not work if the accessory wire is wired wrong. the car has 2 acc wires and you NEED to use both, cant use one and not the other.

Accessory 1 - BLACK/ Orange ( BCM and CLUSTER)

Accessory 2 - Green (HEATER?BLOWER MOTOR)

since you already used the Orance Acc wire on your starter unit, you need to go purchase a relay (or use your unused starter kill relay, save the buck) for the second accessory wire.

RELAY CONNECTION

Relay Terminal 30 - To second accesory wire.

Relay Terminal 86 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp

Relay Terminal 87 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp you can connect 86 and 87 together and just use one fuse.

Relay Terminal 85 - To ground out when running from remote starter. Connect the BLUE/ORANGE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

post back your results and hope i have covered all your questions

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged

Sorry... I was tired when I typed. Meant to say BLACK / YELLOW which I thought was the correct wire for the parking lights as well but they don't come on.... Any other ideas?

Also what is the reasoning behind the relay for the second accessory wire. The first wire is wired straight up and works fine. Couldn't i just connect them both together?

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