door lock module, 2003 durango

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tedmond

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Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged

well from your alarm unit, your system looks like it has built in relays and should supply enough power for your lights. Connect the WHITE wire from your RS to the BLACK / YELLOW wire on car. However, your unit has the option of having negative or postive outputs. Your durango requires BOTH negative and postive for light flash. From your unit, you can select polarity (+/-) with a plastic jumper. Since you have it already connected to the BLACK / YELLOW, make that jumper postive. To get a negative, you will require a relay. I know it sounds like alot of relays, but trust me, other cars can use as many as 6 its wack.

Parking Lights Postive - BLACK / YELLOW (+) at headlight switch **you have connected this properly**

Parking Lights Negative - RED / YELLOW (-) at Drivers Kick Panel Pin 4

RELAY CONNECTION For NEGATIVE PARKING LIGHTS

Relay Terminal 30 - To Negative Parking Lights RED / YELLOW.

Relay Terminal 86 - To GROUND

Relay Terminal 87 - To GROUND you can connect 86 and 87 together and just GROUND to one place.

Relay Terminal 85 - To 12 volt output from alarm for parking lights, WHITE. Connect the WHITE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

Sorry, you cannot connect the first accessory wire to the second. that would cause a SERIOUS electrical damage to your system. THe safeest way is to use a relay since it has high amp draw. If it was low you could have used a Diode, but in this case a relay is a must. as mentioned before for another accessory wire

RELAY CONNECTION FOR OPTIONAL ACCESSORY 2 WIRE, STARTER 2 OR IGNITION 2

Relay Terminal 30 - To second accesory wire.

Relay Terminal 86 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp

Relay Terminal 87 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp you can connect 86 and 87 together and just use one fuse.

Relay Terminal 85 - To ground out when running from remote starter. Connect the BLUE/ORANGE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 22, 2007 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged

Cool, got it makes sense. Now the hard part. Finding time to dive take all the panels off again and dive back in!

It took about 4.5 hours to install (not bad for first time) and I soldered and shrink wrapped every last connection. Even color coordinated the shrink wrapping to blend in. ...Couldn't even tell it's not factory. door lock module, 2003 durango - Page 3 -- posted image.

door lock module, 2003 durango - Page 3 -- posted image.

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 23, 2007 at 2:13 PM / IP Logged

smart idea, with the heat shrink. Maybe i should do that in my car. How did you shrink wrap your connections? did you cut the wire inhalf?

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 23, 2007 at 10:27 PM / IP Logged

I removed the pin from the connector going into the ignition module and then slid the tube onto the wire. Just be sure you bend the little barb on the pin back out enough so it clicks back into the connector snuggly.

Some of the 18g wires that were too small from the kick panel i just removed some insulation and soldered and taped up real tight.

Gotta say I like the skytek system though. Was at the gym this morning and for the hell of it i hit the start button from the locker room which is about 500 feet from the door in a brick building and my truck was parked about 300 feet away and running. Thats some damn good power for a remote if you ask me.

Thanks for all the help bro!

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 24, 2007 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged

well good to know you got it all working. Skytek has some nice units i must admit, but never used any.

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 26, 2007 at 1:39 AM / IP Logged

ok man, I had some free time to try and mess with my parking lights that arn't working and the problem with no power to turn heater on.

For the heater:

I disconnected the orange from RS to access1 and plugged it into the grn second access wire at the ign harness. I figured this would isolate which accessory wire is the right one for the heater. Wrong... still no heater! What else could I be missing? Do I have to have both access hooked up and one relayed to an aux input from the rs for it to work? I wouldn't think so.... door lock module, 2003 durango - Page 3 -- posted image.

For the parking lights:

I checked the connection for this and I have it wired to the BLACK / YELLOW wire at the headlight switch. The jumper in the RS is also set to +. Connections are good and I still have no parking lights. What do you think could be it?

Thanks!

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 26, 2007 at 7:26 AM / IP Logged

this is kinda c/p from my last post. Your durango requires BOTH negative and postive for light flash. Since you connected postive, you need a negative output as well.. Since you have it already connected to the postive. To get a negative, you will require a relay.

Parking Lights Postive - BLACK / YELLOW (+) at headlight switch **you have connected this properly**

Parking Lights Negative - RED / YELLOW (-) at Drivers Kick Panel Pin 4

RELAY CONNECTION For NEGATIVE PARKING LIGHTS

Relay Terminal 30 - To Negative Parking Lights RED / YELLOW.

Relay Terminal 86 - To GROUND

Relay Terminal 87 - To GROUND you can connect 86 and 87 together and just GROUND to one place.

Relay Terminal 85 - To 12 volt output from alarm for parking lights, WHITE. Connect the WHITE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

Sorry, you cannot connect the first accessory wire to the second. You car needs one for remote start, the other is for blower motor. that would cause a SERIOUS electrical damage to your system. The safest way is to use a relay since it has high current draw. If it was low you could have used a Diode, but in this case a relay is a must. as mentioned before for another accessory wire

RELAY CONNECTION FOR OPTIONAL ACCESSORY 2 WIRE, STARTER 2 OR IGNITION 2

Relay Terminal 30 - To second accesory wire.

Relay Terminal 86 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp

Relay Terminal 87 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp you can connect 86 and 87 together and just use one fuse.

Relay Terminal 85 - To ground out when running from remote starter. Connect the BLUE/ORANGE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

try connecting the acc wire to DARK GREEN (+) for Front Blower

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 26, 2007 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged

Didn't pick upi the relays for to hook up both access wires yet but I tried connecting the accessory wire to the drk green wire and still nothing for the blower. Will it only work once I get the relay and have both access wires hook up? Or is something else the culprit?

tedmond

Gold - Posts: 4,610

Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: October 28, 2007 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged

yeap that is correct. connect both accessories and connect both parking lights. as i mentioned before they need both pos and neg. that should fix all the problems. read my previous post for info. good luck

paradiso17

Member - Posts: 22

Joined: October 09, 2007

Location: Alaska, United States

Posted: October 28, 2007 at 4:56 PM / IP Logged

cool thanks bro, I'll try to get some relays around here... hopefully i won't have to order any. Radio shack doesn't have spdt only single throws.... I'll let you know how I make out.

Thanks man!

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