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all my batteries in the trunk possible?


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twobig86 
Copper - Posts: 84
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2005
Posted: November 26, 2007 at 9:32 AM / IP Logged  

Here is my problem.  I bought 3 optima red top 75/25 batteries to power my system.  I was planning on buying 2 of the 34/78 but when I looked at my car I realized that the 34/78 batteries would not fit under the hood.  Then I bought the 3 75/25 since they are alittle smaller.  However they are still too big to have one under the hood of my 93 civic. 

My question is.  Can I have ALL the batteries in the trunk, and if so is this how I would connect them?  If not how would I do it?

If so I will return the 3 smaller batteries and pick up 2 of the bigger optimas instead.  I would assume that I would have to attach the power that usually attaches to the positive post of the battery to the 0 Guage Power wire Via a distro block or something and then would I just ground the negative wire to ground?  Should that also be 0 gauge to chasis or could I just snip off the old connecter and crimp on a new one and screw to ground?

That power wire would run to the back and attach to the battery + and then from that batt + to the other batt pos.  Then the battery - would be connected together and then from one to ground correct?  Where would I have my 300 amp fuses?  I assume one within 18" of the first battery from the front of the car.  Where else would I need one since the batteries are so close to the amps?

twobig86 
Copper - Posts: 84
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2005
Posted: November 26, 2007 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged  
Pretty much will this effect the performance of my car at all or no?  Would I have to upgrade any other wiring, besides the big 3?
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: November 26, 2007 at 10:48 PM / IP Logged  
As long as you allow for adequate power demands, both to the rear from the alternator, and the back to the front to the main fuse block, electrically the car will know no difference. I'd recommend a #4 or better back, and a #6 or better back to the front. If you upgrade your alternator to anything larger than a 150A, then you will need a cable that is larger than a #4.
The weight of the system in the back, as well as the additional weight of the batteries in the back, will affect how the car handles... It will. I speak from experience with Civics... this is my second one, and the rear suspension in them really ISN'T designed to handle all that weight on a permanent basis. It may or may not affect the steering geometry, but I can fairly assure you that you will want to have the car aligned after you move everything to the back.
As far as actually connecting them? A (FUSED, PLEASE!!!) distribution block would certainly make it easier, but it's not really necessary... Just a simple, heavy gauge jumper between positive terminals, with individual grounds to the chassis, to INDIVIDUAL ground points will be the best option.
Yes, you will still fuse within 18" of the battery bank, both in and out. Any cable that is longer than a couple of feet, should have a fuse in it as well, (fused for the gauge of the wire) even the wires between the batteries.
Hope this answers some of your questions...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
twobig86 
Copper - Posts: 84
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2005
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 6:12 AM / IP Logged  

Just trying to make sure that I read the first paragraph right...I should run two wires to the batteries in the back one being a #4 from the alternator but since I will have a 200 + amp alternator probably use the 0 guage correct?  and then also a 6 guage from the fuse block under the hood to the battery.  Is this correct?

then when its all done get the car aligned and place fuses pretty much everywhere im going off the batteries with more than a couple feet.  If my batteries are side by side do I need to fuse that wire if its a really short wire say 8 inches or is that only necessary if they are farther apart than that?

Thanks alot for the tips.

haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 7:30 AM / IP Logged  
haemphyst wrote:
As long as you allow for adequate power demands, both to the rear from the alternator, and the back to the front to the main fuse block, electrically the car will know no difference. I'd recommend a #4 or better back, and a #6 or better back to the front. If you upgrade your alternator to anything larger than a 150A, then you will need a cable that is larger than a #4.
The weight of the system in the back, as well as the additional weight of the batteries in the back, will affect how the car handles... It will. I speak from experience with Civics... this is my second one, and the rear suspension in them really ISN'T designed to handle all that weight on a permanent basis. It may or may not affect the steering geometry, but I can fairly assure you that you will want to have the car aligned after you move everything to the back.
As far as actually connecting them? A (FUSED, PLEASE!!!) distribution block would certainly make it easier, but it's not really necessary... Just a simple, heavy gauge jumper between positive terminals, with individual grounds to the chassis, to INDIVIDUAL ground points will be the best option.
Yes, you will still fuse within 18" of the battery bank, both in and out. Any cable that is longer than a couple of feet, should have a fuse in it as well, (fused for the gauge of the wire) even the wires between the batteries.
Hope this answers some of your questions...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
twobig86 
Copper - Posts: 84
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2005
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 8:19 AM / IP Logged  
see now your just making me feel stupid!  Look what you went and did!
ibasspro 
Copper - Posts: 95
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2007
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 27, 2007 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged  

Just to clarify, you want to still have a fuse under the hood, on the power wire going from the alt. to the batteries, & a fuse at the batteries on the same wire. Reason being, with the car running, & IF somehow the wire going the the batteries grounds out, you big $$$ alt will be toast.

Also, check the requirements for the alt., as my 250 stinger alt, stated no more the 5 foot run of 0GA (both power & ground) to the battery.

used to be loud, used to be fast...now I am married LOL
darkenigma 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 29, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: January 31, 2008 at 4:10 AM / IP Logged  
m tryin to figure out if i should run a kinetik 2400 or a optima as my secondary in the back. ill be keepin my factory amp and alt. my factory amp is at 590cca and my alt pushes about 170amps. ill be running 2 3000 watts amps when its all said and done. so far my car handles 1 of the amps with almost no dimming at all and i havent touched the big 3 yet. im really just tryin to figure out which is a better route, i mean i know people that run the kinetik and i know people that run the optima and their both in the same range as i am as far as rms. i just want to know if the optima is worth gettin to soften the blow of 6000 rms or is a kinetik a better route(chances are i might run another battery if i need to). and also does running a cap after the second battery put more of a strain on the alternator? im just curious cause i use my cap as a distribution block for looks. i know theyre rather useless, but yea i like it. but if itll cause more problems id like to know

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