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sound processor, eq, line driver?


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donpisto 
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Posted: December 11, 2007 at 11:40 PM / IP Logged  
TO clear things up, from my first response to you when i said "Turning up the gain IS asking for the amp to do more." I left out the following and should read as follow:
Turning up the gain IS asking for the amp to do more. In turn, when asking the amp to do more work, it will heat up. Turn up the volume on your HU, it will heat up more. Turn up the bass, it will heat up more. Why? Because it's requiring more out of the amplifier. What you are saying doesn't make sense. It's like saying if you run a lot of programs on your computer, it's not gonna slow it down, but asking it to do more will slow down.
jmelton86 
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Posted: December 11, 2007 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  

As mentioned before, if the input level (gain) of the amp is matched to the output of the HU then the amp will put out max power.

If you have an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v, then a HU that puts out anything in between that will allow the amp to reach full power. So, an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v can reach full power with EITHER a HU that puts out 8v OR 2v, period. This eliminates the use for line drivers etc...

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donpisto 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 12:58 AM / IP Logged  
jmelton86 wrote:

As mentioned before, if the input level (gain) of the amp is matched to the output of the HU then the amp will put out max power.

If you have an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v, then a HU that puts out anything in between that will allow the amp to reach full power. So, an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v can reach full power with EITHER a HU that puts out 8v OR 2v, period. This eliminates the use for line drivers etc...

I understand what you're saying, but take for example this situation: With the current setup, you have a deck with say 5V preouts, the sub can handle 1,000w and you have an amp that puts out 500w. It will surely take all that amp has even at full gain (provided they are both quality products). If you have the gain set currently at 3/4 with the 5v pre out, going to a deck with a 2v preout, you would have to compensate for that and would have to turn up the gain to get the same output, and it would most likely be beyond full gain.
Same scenario, except with the 5v deck you're gains are set at below 1/4. If you go down to the 2v pre out deck then you'd need to turn the gain up, say to 1/2 (or whatever it is, but it needs to be turned up to get the same output).
Not sure what I'm saying makes sense, but both scenarios will have the following effect: Lower the gain is, the cooler it will be, the less current it will pull, the more efficient it will run. Also running an amp at a 4 ohm load rather than a 1 ohm load will make the amp run cooler. If your amp can put out the power the sub needs at a higher impedence, it is better to stick with that. I used to have an RL-p 18 and I have an RF T30001bd for it. The sub really only needs 1k. It can surely take 1.5-2k, but it is not necessary. Running at 1 ohm and 4 ohms was a major difference. The amplifier itself is built real well so it hardly gets hot. But I notice a difference in the current it draws. One can easily notice if they are drawing too much current by checking the voltage at the amplifier with a DMM. If you don't have one, the simply having your headlights on at night and parked against wall and playing the system and higher volumes and adjust the gains will clearly show you when you are pulling more current. If you have a stout electrical system or aren't running much power, then you really won't notice the difference. But if you are running 3k with a stock alternator and a single battery, there will be a MAJOR change with the settings of the gains.
jmelton86 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 1:17 AM / IP Logged  

What amps do you know of that won't accept less than 2v input?

I walked outside and checked my sub amps. They accept from 8v - .003v. Meaning, even 3/1000 of a volt will still give the amp enough to reach full power. My front stage amp goes from 5v - .2v.

Do you see what we're saying?

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dwarren 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 1:32 AM / IP Logged  
donpisto wrote:
jmelton86 wrote:

As mentioned before, if the input level (gain) of the amp is matched to the output of the HU then the amp will put out max power.

If you have an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v, then a HU that puts out anything in between that will allow the amp to reach full power. So, an amp with an adjustable gain of 8v - 2v can reach full power with EITHER a HU that puts out 8v OR 2v, period. This eliminates the use for line drivers etc...

I understand what you're saying, but take for example this situation: With the current setup, you have a deck with say 5V preouts, the sub can handle 1,000w and you have an amp that puts out 500w. It will surely take all that amp has even at full gain (provided they are both quality products). If you have the gain set currently at 3/4 with the 5v pre out, going to a deck with a 2v preout, you would have to compensate for that and would have to turn up the gain to get the same output, and it would most likely be beyond full gain.
Same scenario, except with the 5v deck you're gains are set at below 1/4. If you go down to the 2v pre out deck then you'd need to turn the gain up, say to 1/2 (or whatever it is, but it needs to be turned up to get the same output).
Not sure what I'm saying makes sense, but both scenarios will have the following effect: Lower the gain is, the cooler it will be, the less current it will pull, the more efficient it will run. Also running an amp at a 4 ohm load rather than a 1 ohm load will make the amp run cooler. If your amp can put out the power the sub needs at a higher impedence, it is better to stick with that. I used to have an RL-p 18 and I have an RF T30001bd for it. The sub really only needs 1k. It can surely take 1.5-2k, but it is not necessary. Running at 1 ohm and 4 ohms was a major difference. The amplifier itself is built real well so it hardly gets hot. But I notice a difference in the current it draws. One can easily notice if they are drawing too much current by checking the voltage at the amplifier with a DMM. If you don't have one, the simply having your headlights on at night and parked against wall and playing the system and higher volumes and adjust the gains will clearly show you when you are pulling more current. If you have a stout electrical system or aren't running much power, then you really won't notice the difference. But if you are running 3k with a stock alternator and a single battery, there will be a MAJOR change with the settings of the gains.

You have some things mixed up here. Regardless of how many stars and posts I have, I can assuredly tell you, you have been misinformed some where along the line.

1. As mentioned above, the gain is a level matching system. Your statements are contradictory in the above post. So you use an Eclispe deck that happens to have 8 volt pre-outs, great, you need only crack the gain on you amp a hair (read; you adjusted the gain ever so slightly), for it to reach FULL output wattage of the amp (Not going to adress impedance yet).

Here is the contradiction, you now swap that Eclispe deck with some off brand deck that only has 2 volt outputs, now in order for the to be level matched  and produce FULL wattage output, you must crank the gain, and again it is producing the same wattage as when the gain was only cracked with the 8 volt input.

Oh wait, the amp produces full power either way the gain is set (only when leve matched properly)?? Yes, so the amp works at the same "stress" level when levels are matched! It doesn't matter where the gain is set!

2. Yes, of course changing (lowering, going from a 4 ohm load to a 1 ohm load for eg. ) the impedance presented to the amp will require the amp to draw more current from its power source (cars charging system) hence the light dimming, etc.

Steven Kephart 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 1:38 AM / IP Logged  
donpisto wrote:

I'm not saying that higher voltage is needed, but IMO it is better having a 4V (or more) pre out on the HU than 2V. I have used a couple Eclipse decks with 8v pre outs and switch to an alpine w200 with a 2v pre out and noticed a significan different, both audibly and on the meter (term lab). This can be adjust by increasing the gains (if going from 8V to 2V), however, your amplifier then runs hotter and will not be as efficient. Efficiency is the key. The cooler your equipment runs, the more efficient it will be, and the better performance you will get out of it.

I don't think you understand the concept of a gain control.  It isn't a volume control.  It is there to match the amplifier to the head unit being used.  Since output voltage isn't regulated like it is in home audio, signal levels from head units will be different, therefore an amplifier needs a gain knob to adjust to those differences.  An amplifier producing 500 watts with a 2 volt input will be just as efficient and produce the same amount of heat as an amplifier producing 500 watts with an 8 volt head unit.  The difference is the gain will be set at different points.

Here's a great link that explains gain controls: http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

donpisto wrote:
I highly recommend getting a deck with at least 4V pre outs to anyone and if you have a deck with 2V pre outs, such as mine, a processor is a must (especially for the w200 and the w205, otherwise the deck is crap without it).

That's not true.  My deck/processor combination has a pre-out voltage less than 1 volt (as was seen with an oscilloscope) and I'd bet it produces cleaner sound than your 4v pre-out head unit.  Pre-out voltage is a marketing gimmick pure and simple.  And I believe it is responsible for quite a bit of confusion and damaged equipment throughout the industry because so many installers don't know how to set gains correctly, much less the DIY'ers out there installing their own equipment.

donpisto wrote:
As for the issue, it is a power issue. If gains are set high (I would never go past 3/4), then the sub needs more power, provided it can handle it.

Why wouldn't you go past 3/4 if the amplifier never clips?  I set my gains with an oscilloscope and found I could turn the gains all the way up and never get clipping.  What do you think will happen by doing this?

donpisto wrote:
Oh really? So tell me, I guess I should be able to fine tune my system by adjusting the bass and treble from -7 to +7? That is enough? I think not. It has no EQ that is usefull without the H701 processor. Do you see any SQ guys running the W200 or W205 without the processor? Can you do time alignment and set your soundstage without the processor? The deck, is really useless without the processor if you want the audio to sound right. I'm currently using it without the processor and it sounds okay.... and please don't tell me adjust the bass and treble is because I am not setting it right, you need more than that. You need to set crossover points and adjust the slope on them as well.

For most people adjustments with bass and treble should be enough as they don't know what they are doing.  A processor in the wrong hands (the monkey I described above) can do far more damage to the sound with a tool like that than good.  Give a paint brush to a kindergartener and all you get is a mess.  But that brush in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing gives us the Sistine Chapel. 

donpisto wrote:
  Only 3 dB huh? You think that's not alot? Wow, you got some learning to do. 3 dB is more than "a barely audible difference". I have ran several setups, ran different amps on the same subs, ran different subs on same amps, whatever combination you can think of. I can easily notice the difference of even even 0.5 dB. How do I know this? I did a 141.2 dB on the TL on a DD 9515 on a treo ssx 1500.1 then went to a kicker zx 2500.1 and did a 140.8. With music you can easily tell the difference.

There is a lot more going on there beyond the simple output differences.  You are talking about two different subs with different harmonic distortion characteristics and different frequency responses.  However with the same sub, try swapping an amplifier with one that produces twice the power and you will be surprised at how small the jump in audible output really is.  I know I was when I went from a Soundstream Reference 500 to my Arc 1500dr on my Brahma 10. 

donpisto wrote:
  Also, 3 dB is theoretically double the loudness. It is a SIGNIFICANT difference.

Actually 10 dB is double the loudness. 

donpisto wrote:
  Again, do a little research and get some experience before you blab your mouth. Having a higher post count doesn't mean you know more ;)

Actually Dave is highly respected around here because of the extensive research he does and the experience he has.  It helps having friends who happen to be engineers at Harman Kardon.  You really need to pick your fights more wisely.  This forum isn't like many of the others, with teenage kids blabbing their mouths trying to sound like they know something.  Many of the people here have extensive backgrounds in this field. 

donpisto 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 2:05 AM / IP Logged  
First off, I'm about to get some sleep, but I'll respond to a couple things real quick.
Steven Kephart wrote:
I don't think you understand the concept of a gain control. It isn't a volume control. It is there to match the amplifier to the head unit being used. Since output voltage isn't regulated like it is in home audio, signal levels from head units will be different, therefore an amplifier needs a gain knob to adjust to those differences. An amplifier producing 500 watts with a 2 volt input will be just as efficient and produce the same amount of heat as an amplifier producing 500 watts with an 8 volt head unit. The difference is the gain will be set at different points.
This is exactly the point I was trying to get at. The first guy who quoted didn't understand that I was trying to state that a deck with a lower preout voltate will need to be set at a higher gain setting to match the output equivalent to a deck with a higher preout set at a lower gain setting. Trying to dumb it down, just made it more confusing. I completely understand the concept of gains though.
Steven Kephart wrote:
Why wouldn't you go past 3/4 if the amplifier never clips? I set my gains with an oscilloscope and found I could turn the gains all the way up and never get clipping. What do you think will happen by doing this?
I don't recommend it, because there are many people who don't know what they are doing...even them turning it up beyond 1/2 gain can damage the amp. But you're right, if you know what you're doing you can run full gain and be fine, however, some people like to turn up bass boost. All the bass boost is, is pretty much an EQ. It boosts a certain frequency dependent upon how much you turn up the bass boost. I personally don't use it and don't think it is really necessary. Just that people who dont know much turn it up, and run full gain, and wonder why their equipment gets damaged.
Steven Kephart wrote:
For most people adjustments with bass and treble should be enough as they don't know what they are doing. A processor in the wrong hands (the monkey I described above) can do far more damage to the sound with a tool like that than good. Give a paint brush to a kindergartener and all you get is a mess. But that brush in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing gives us the Sistine Chapel.
Agreed. One can really make their audio system sound horrible if they dont use a processor or an EQ properly.
Steven Kephart wrote:
There is a lot more going on there beyond the simple output differences. You are talking about two different subs with different harmonic distortion characteristics and different frequency responses. However with the same sub, try swapping an amplifier with one that produces twice the power and you will be surprised at how small the jump in audible output really is. I know I was when I went from a Soundstream Reference 500 to my Arc 1500dr on my Brahma 10.
That is exactly what I did. The only thing I did was swap my treo amp for the kicker amp on the dd 9515. I noticed an audible difference right away and on the meter, it also showed the difference... as mentioned it was a 0.4 dB difference.
Steven Kephart wrote:
Actually 10 dB is double the loudness.
From what I have seen and heard many people say, including manufacturers is that to acquire a 3dB gain, you would need to double the cone area, or double the power. Here is one link that specifically states that 3 dB is twice the loudness: http://trace.wisc.edu/docs/2004-About-dB/
Speaking to anyone who competes in SPL will also tell you 3 dB will be twice as loud. How do you figure 10 dB?
Steven Kephart wrote:
Actually Dave is highly respected around here because of the extensive research he does and the experience he has. It helps having friends who happen to be engineers at Harman Kardon. You really need to pick your fights more wisely. This forum isn't like many of the others, with teenage kids blabbing their mouths trying to sound like they know something. Many of the people here have extensive backgrounds in this field.
I'm not trying to pick any fights, but I'm trying to get facts out rather than someone misinforming another person. I dont understand how he states that if an amp "is running hotter", it ISN'T because you turned the gain up, it's because you are asking it to do more. That does not make ANY sense whatsoever. It's contradictory.
tcss 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged  
Couple of quick notes before this thread gets locked. 3 db requires twice the power, it is not twice as loud, 10 db is. The definition of a db is " the smallest differance in volume the human ear can detect". So how again can anyone hear .5 db? Rule #1, don't argue with Hamfist. Rule #2, see rule #1.
There is no such thing as free installation!
the12volt 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 12:09 PM / IP Logged  

The decibel is a unit of measurement relative to a specified level. 

3 dB is not twice as loud.
3 dB is approximately double power.
-3 dB is approximately half power.
10 dB is twice as loud. 
-10 dB is half as loud. 
150 dB is twice as loud as 140 dB.
140 dB is twice as loud as 130 dB and so on...

No reason yet for locking this thread tcss, so please try to keep it that way. BTW, Rule # 3, rules created by tcss should be taken with a grain of salt ;)

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tcss 
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Posted: December 12, 2007 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged  
tcss smiles and nods his head. Rule #4, Volt has created this industry's best websight. :)
There is no such thing as free installation!
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