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need feedback about new set up


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Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2007 at 10:00 AM / IP Logged  
I am about to buy a new set up for my 94 sho. It comes stock with a 6" sub but it's blown and once I have the head unit installed I will replace it with this.
6" Sub
I also want to put a downfiring sub in the back seat floor area since the trunk it pretty well sealed from the cab and sound won't pass thru.
The set up I want is as follows, the 10" pioneer shallow mount and a crunch amp to power both the 6" and 10" subs.
Crunch Amp
10" Pioneer
Does anyone have better recommendations for sub or amp in the same price range or have ideas of the best box to build?
The 6" has it's own box stock that I will reuse in the back dash, but the 10" will be new and custom by me, so far I will go with sealed...any advice?
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: December 13, 2007 at 7:50 PM / IP Logged  

I say to ditch the idea of having a 6" and a 10". It just won't sound right.

Go with a single 10" or 12" in a ported box in the trunk.

Either a single 4ohm OR a dual 2ohm voice coil sub that can handle about 500watts RMS.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 13, 2007 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  

Ditch what's left of the stock system altogether.  It's time to go all aftermarket.  Use that factory sub enclosure to fashion a pass thru from trunk cavity into the cabin, and fit your sub box in the trunk.  Your sub selection will be much greater, the sound will easily pass thru to your listening location, and you will benefit by having the sub positioned farther away.

Pay a lot of attention to the front soundstage.  Listen to several component sets (or even coaxials for entry level if you must) and pick those that sound best to you.  A good sub system will do little good without a good front stage to blend with.

Get your hands on as much Dynamat or equivalent damping and install it in the critical areas.  The front doors, back parcel shelf, trunk lid and rear...and continue to damp other areas if they start making noises.

Use a 2 channel amp for the fronts and a mono amp for the sub.  Fronts should be fitted in front door locations with tweeters very close to the mids.  When final selection of sub is made (and keep in mind the idea of sealed enclosure when selecting, as some subs are naturally better in sealed), the design of the box is next.  During all of this, you will want to scrutinize the factory wiring and connections and make upgrades as necessary.  Start with a fresh new battery and remove/clean all wire connections.  Add additional larger gauge wiring as needed (read the sticky above in this forum about The Big 3 upgrade).

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2007 at 12:53 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not too sure how much I want to do as far as re-wiring the existing set up. I'm not sure how the people putting in the head unit will rewire all the speakers. As far as the subs in the trunk, how much sound will actually come thru that 6" cut out in the back dash? Plus my trunk already rattles just closing the door, I can't imagine how bad it will be with subs in there.
Why would the 6" and 10" sound bad together?
I plan on doing the big 3 at some point, I already have to replace my alternator anyway.
Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 9:49 AM / IP Logged  
What are your feelings about how subs would sound in a trunk where there is a solid metal wall between the rear seat and trunk so that the ONLY way for sound/air to pass thru is a 6" cut out in the back window dash?
audioconnection 
Member - Posts: 45
Member spacespace
Joined: June 13, 2003
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:13 AM / IP Logged  
that metal "wall" is not going to block the sound like you think it will. I do agree with your problem of the truck rattling. but these ideass are correct. the best route as far as the subs go is to only use a 10 OR a 6. no matter what size you choose, just use an enclosure to "vent" into the cab meaning the sound is sent only into the cabin and not first into the trunk. taking into consideration the port size of course you can mount the enclosure into the trunk with a solid port leazding to that 6" hole. try to imagine that a ported enclosure does not have to have the port inside the box. it can extend out as well and still have the same effect but has to be designed properly for the right outcome.
remember...Friends Dont let friends Install, Take it to a pro..
Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged  
I know I'm being stubborn, but why wouldnt a 10 and 6 sound good together? I've never really heard a 6" but I have seen set ups where people have different size subs together. Just curious.
If the port would connect to the hole between the two so sound would transmit to the cab why not just put the sub in the back seat to begin with?
Do you have an example if this external port and how it works/looks?
Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:22 AM / IP Logged  
Another thought is what if I put say for example 2 10's in the trunk whatever kind of enclosure and in addition to having that 6" cut out in the dash remove the back seat and cut a few holes in the metal wall and then put the seat back, this way it isn't 100% solid between the two?
Just an idea, I don't know how easy or hard it would be to cut into that metal.
Gbelous 
Member - Posts: 30
Member spacespace
Joined: October 16, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 10:56 AM / IP Logged  
need feedback about new set up -- posted image.
Would it work this way? Having a normal internal port but then use like a larger diameter sano tube to filter it into the cab and not the trunk?
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 18, 2007 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  

I'll show you some pics of a trunk install I did in my car.  The 12 is facing into the trunk (I actually designed it to face toward center, or side, rather than rear and didn't even experiment with direction like I should have).  The car had a third center speaker cutout in the rear parcel shelf that was used for the factory 6 X 9 "sub".  I used that cutout and fashioned a route from the trunk cavity to the cabin, using a piece of heating duct and a couple of improvised hats (baffles).  The car already has a baffle that separates the rear of the parcel shelf from the trunk and I wanted to make sure I isolated the sub waves from the backs of the rear speakers...thus the length of flexible duct (hidden between the factory baffle and parcel shelf).

On the cabin inside, I mounted a grill and painted it to blend with the carpet.  The sound is really good for a cheap sub and not very much power.

need feedback about new set up -- posted image.

need feedback about new set up -- posted image.

(Rear speakers left and right are covered with the factory cloth.)

need feedback about new set up -- posted image.

You don't have to aim the sub or port or anything directly into the cabin through the opening.  In fact, it's best if you dont try such a thing.  All that opening does is allow an equalization of pressure from trunk to cabin.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the sound damping to take the rattles out of the trunk.  Any part of the car that rattles at low frequencies will do so no matter where the sub is located, so use the damping wherever you need to.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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