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monster vs stinger + sub box for caddy


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D148l0 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 3:48 PM / IP Logged  

Need help deciding: I've been always a  monster cable interconnectors fan, but now I'm doubt:                                Monster Cable Interlink 401XLN vs Stinger expert series... same price range, but who has the best noise reduction?, and will 5m (16.40ft) be enough dash-trunk? (the car is a cadillac sedan de ville). Also I really would appreciate any suggestion about what kind of subwoofer box to use in that car. I'm thinking of a sealed one, taking out the factory's 6x9 from the rear deck, and maybe making a couple more holes. Does anybody know if the Snake_tubes from subzone are worth using and how to? the manufacturer claims that  "For custom applications, such as venting the enclosure through a rear deck, Snake Tube can be easily installed outside the enclosure." IMO maybe I could gain some SPL (who wouldn't like to?) but with loss in SQ... (loose tubes floating aronund?? mm....)                                                                                            The subwoofer is a nakamichi SPW-1200 (450W RMS DVC 6ohms, can be used in sealed, ported or free air)wired to a nakamichi PA-4001 (400W RMS @ 2ohms)                                                                                                 

Thanks a lot!

monster vs stinger + sub box for caddy -- posted image.D148L0

d148l0
Blazermedic 
Copper - Posts: 128
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 06, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  
I would say use the Monster interconnects and forget the stuff about using snaketube to create ports up through your rear deck. What type of box you should use depends on sveeral things. Check out the link at the bottom of the page for some helpful considerations when choosing a sub box. Personally, I'm always partial to properly built sealed boxes. Some helpful things to tell us would be the type of music you listen to and a link to the specs of the sub.
Cary
Blazermedic 
Copper - Posts: 128
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 06, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 3:59 PM / IP Logged  
I would say use the Monster interconnects and forget the stuff about using snaketube to create ports up through your rear deck. What type of box you should use depends on sveeral things. Check out the link at the bottom of the page for some helpful considerations when choosing a sub box. Personally, I'm always partial to properly built sealed boxes. Some helpful things to tell us would be the type of music you listen to and a link to the specs of the sub.
Cary
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/spboxnew2.htm
D148l0 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks BM!  I already check all the links in this site... my main concern is the characteristics of the car would be better for another kind of box, but I guess nothing beats sealed... (I'm also very partial about it, hehe) here is the link to the sub specs: http://nakamichi.com/auto/subwoofer/sp_w1200d_specs.htm

Thanks again!

D148L0

d148l0
bberman1 
Gold - Posts: 2,314
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  
As far as the interconnects go you will not hear a difference between the two, so get what ever ones you like best.  That is a nice sub and will put out some real clean sound. I would suggest you use a sealed enclosure. As far as porting the trunk into the cabin I would suggest you cut a whole in between the 6X9 in the middle of the rear deck and vent the trunk. To get a clean look you can build a speaker grill the same color as the rear deck. to cover it you will want to use a grill cloth similar to this http://www.speakerworks.net/grill_cloth.html I have done this many times and it gives a good clean stock look.
Blazermedic 
Copper - Posts: 128
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 06, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  
That's a real good idea that bberman1 has about cutting a hole in the rear deck between the 6x9s, but I wonder how you would calculate the size for the port hole. I guess I think about this and I start seeing all the problems that could come out of this idea. (imaging for one, resonance another)
Cary
D148l0 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 8:00 PM / IP Logged  

a ported hole in the trunk? very interesting!! but I'm kinda confused now... Let me explain a couple of things first... In the caddy the factory 6x9 only have a bass function. I want to remove them since I'm taking off all the premium sound. So I would end with 2 6x9 holes. The thing is that it seems to me (Previous experience) that in that case you lose a lot of SPL in the cabin, that is why I asked for suggestions, like making more holes.... If I got you right bberman, you only meant to make a hole and cover it, right? Or, if  as blazermedic says, your idea is to port that hole and make of the whole trunk a big pseudo passband box, wouldn't be better to close the 6x9 holes and reinforce the rear deck with MDF? The specs of the port would be no problem (thanks the12volt.com!!)

Sincerely, it's an interesting idea (never heard of anything like that), and the grill cloth suggestion was great, even better than the one I was gonna buy, it looks exactly like the one covering the tweeters... I would appreciate If you could explain us what you meant...

Thanks again!

D148L0while the

d148l0
ivant2 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged  
I just had a box built that is a 4th order bandpass ported into the rear deck of the car and mine sounds great (SPL/SQ) I cut the port hole in the rear in between where the two 6x9 locations are and then made a fiberglass lip around it to give the apperance of it belonging. After completing this we later testing the freq spectrum @ 1 sec 1 hz we had only two dead spots one at 14 hz and hen later at 63 hz. not bad i would say with a 5 hz test only in between 60 and 65 hz did it finally drop off. Also was able to achieve a high of 145.6 with my SPL in the car and amazingly enough it was louder with the doors sealed up then with them wide open ( 3 db differ).
Music is life, the rest is just details.
D148l0 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2003 at 11:02 PM / IP Logged  

Ivant2, did you sealed the 6x9 holes? did you put the box port into the hole in the middle or did you put an independent port in the hole??                                          thanx!

d148l0
bberman1 
Gold - Posts: 2,314
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 22, 2003 at 9:22 AM / IP Logged  

No you got me right D148l0 I was referring to making the whole in between the 6X9’s so the trunk could breathe (like putting the back seat down). If you’re using a sealed enclosure this is the way to go, I have done it several times in the past and it sounds really nice. I don’t know how much space you have in between the 6X9's but  this way you will  still be able to add new 6X9's and "vent " the trunk to the cabin at the same time . If you make 1 good size whole that’s all you will need. But if you going for SPL then I would go with a ported box and port it up through the rear deck into the cabin as Blazermedic suggested. So the port would start inside the enclosure and end at the top of your rear deck.

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