factory stereo to rca adaptor

hi, does any one know where i could find or if they make an adaptor of some sorts to add rca's to a factory stereo that does not have any. i currently have a hi-lo adaptor which i tapped into the rear speakers to signal an amp for subs. this has been working ok but lowers the rear speakers output quality considerably. my stereo is the ford 6 disc. i really dont want to go through the trouble of replacing it with aftermarket, unless i really have to.

There should be no audible difference. Try using a high quality, adjustable loc.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Agreed, a quality LOC is about the only way I know of to do that conversion. And unfortunately you are hitting the snag, lowered performance to the rear speakers. Since you are tieing into that connection, the once dedicated speaker signal now gets split and the performance suffers a little. what make and model amp are you using?Squirrel

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If its too loud, then you're too old

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Im useing a hi-lo adaptor that is adjustable, to a punch 600 mono block. The amp is putting out massive power for me but the rear factory speakers are not as loud and as clear as before. So by having this hi-lo adaptor tapped into the rear speaker lines does it have that much pull to rob power from the stock speakers on that line? What about adding a four channel amp to run the four speakers?

I know the pro's out there have more specific math to do this, so just remember I'm only an enthusiast! Imagine a rope that goes from point A to point B is 1" thick and can deliver 100% to point B. Now split that rope at point B into 2 smaller ropes each 0.5" thick going to points C and D. They are delivered 50% each. In your original stereo configuration, point A is the headunit and point B is the rear speaker. In your NEW stereo configuration, point A is the headunit, point B is the hi-low adapter, point C is the speaker, and point D is the amp. Now read the analogy again and you should see why the signal going to the speaker is weaker (less wattage being delivered). It's not an exact 50/50 split, but you should get the general idea. Your headunit only has a finite amout of wattage that it puts out per channel. If it puts out 25 watts per channel, then each speaker gets 25 watts. By tieing into that line you are essentially robbing some of that 25 watts and sending it to another device (the amp).Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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cva me wrote: What about adding a four channel amp to run the four speakers?

Are you referring to tieing another amp into that hi-low converter and running new speaker wires from the amp to the 4 speakers? If you are then save yourself a lot of time and just install an aftermarket headunit with RCA preouts. You can reuse the factory wiring to the headunit (with an inexpensive easy-to-use harness adapter) and run new RCA's. Otherwise you'll be running new speaker wire throughout the entire car (which I personally recommend since I hate the 24 guage factory wiring (or whatever it is))Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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I use the PAC PSI2 adjustable line output converters and have never had an issue. Now as far as it lowering your rear speakers output that is a new one to me and I have been using LOC's for years and years. either its a really cheap one, defective or wired improperly. Yes, theoretically and common sense would make you think the converter will take power away from the speakers you connect it to. But since I understand ohms law I will explain why it will not. first off it is connected in parallel which every installer should know when you connect in parallel the impedance or resistance is lowered and the power increases. "But why ?" you may ask do I not notice the speakers in the back are louder? Because they have resistors in the LOC's and basically the speaker output of the deck/amp do not even know anything is connected to it, at least not anything you should be able to hear a difference with. This all goes out the window if its installed wrong and as simple as it may seem to most of you to install these I occasionally see improperly installed ones come to my shop and once I re-install it properly it works like it should. Not to mention defective cheap ones, I wouldn't even bother with those.

I understand Ohms Law to an extent and basically: less ohms = less resistance = more power. There's no arguing that fact. I've always looked at LOC's from the "theoritical or common sense" side and never thought to apply Ohms Law when dealing with LOC's. Amps/speaker combinitations and wiring I apply it, but for some reason I never did with LOC's. Plus every stereo I ever heard that was using LOC's always sounded horrible so I've always avoided using them. But since the people that installed them weren't pros either that could explain it. *laughing* Thx for the correctionSquirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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Don't feel bad at all WV, I know many "pro" installers, even some who are certified that still can't grasp ohms law, or wire a relay without a diagram (sad). Lord knows how they passed MECP. Anyhow LOC's are here to stay. On many newer vehicles you can't even change the deck for one reason or another, at least not without extensive and expensive modifications. Now don't get me wrong, I love making custom dashboards and all that but the average customer can't afford it or perhaps it's a lease and no permenent mods allowed. So when they come to me for better sound of course we all know the first thing to do is add an amp/sub. At least in my opinion thats the best bang for the buck, speaker upgrades and perhaps a mid/highs amp are next if they want more. I can promise you first hand that I do at least one system a day using an LOC to a factory deck and I have not had one sound bad yet. On some vehicles it actually makes the system sound incredible with the stock deck and speakers. Some factory systems in newer cars are not half bad to begin with, have amps, subs, components, center channel but the factroy sub is still the weak link in my opinion. Actually I am a little embaressed to admit this but on my last car , a 98 mustang GT, I kept the factory deck because it had a tape and cd. Well I play in a band and we recorded our rehersals with cassette so I wanted to keep it. I added an LOC to a 4 channel amp and ran all the interior speakers and a 10'' JLw6 in a fiberglass enclosure I molded  into the right rear fenderwell area. People would freak how good it sounded that it actually helped me with amp/sub sales and installs to customers that wanted to keep the factory. They just didn't know this could be done until I showed them.

Wow, Thanks alot for the good advice you guys are great. I did a little experement, i disconnected the hi-lo adaptor and the SQ never changed. I made sure it was connected correctly, I dont know if its a cheapo or not- paid $35.00 for it, it is adjustable. I also have a friend with a truck same as mine- "04" ford f250 crew cab" his stock speakers sound same as mine do. I bought it used as did he. The speakers sound like listening to loud music from the "apartment next door". muffled at best. As stated before i have the ford 6 disc stereo. I cant find any of the specs on it. Is this a good factory deck/poor speaker set up or just poor all the way around. I am seriously considering going after market deck,if the test 5x7 infinity's im borrowing dont sound good either. Any advice on what brand deck is good for crisp SQ ?? "I know good SQ costs more" Thanks