autopage c3 rs 603 on a gmc

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tayler

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: June 15, 2011

Location: South Carolina, United States

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged

Car - 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 it does not have an alarm or door lock switch but does have door lock actuators.

I have installed the unit and everything is powered and grounded as it should be. It will attempt a start but will not stay running after it disengages the starter. Also the door lock actuators wiggle but do not engage with the FOB.

Questions about the door lock - Is there a specific actuator that is needed for this model? If so, which one.

It says on the bulldog wiring schematic that it is equiped with GM's PassLock 2 anti-theft system and that I will need a bypass module.

Is there a way to by pass this with out a module?

If not what module do I need?

Thanks in advance,

Tayler

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,791

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Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 3:23 PM / IP Logged

If the power door locks are not factory, you will need to check to see the type of unit that is installed. Depending on

which type of aftermarket unit, the wiring will vary.

There is a way to bypass the Passlock2 system with 2 relays and a resistor. Here is a link with the wiring diagram

and procedure : http://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf You will need a Digital Multi Meter to determine the resistor

value required.

The DEI 556LW bypass module will do the same thing and costs about $25 or less.

Soldering is fun!

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 4:32 PM / IP Logged

That symptom also suggests you haven't programmed tach.

As for the door locks, did they work before?

a) See if the vehicle does an R/S with the key in the ignition, if it does and does the same thing connect and program tach.

b) Are the door lock actuators factory or aftermarket?

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged

If they wiggle it suggests that you have two masters wired up, disconnect the spare wires from the actuator.

If aftermarket you will have either of these two lots of colours at the actuators:

green blue

blue red

black black

white violet

brown brown

Disconnect the black from the passenger side.

tayler

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: June 15, 2011

Location: South Carolina, United States

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 5:41 PM / IP Logged

howie ll wrote:

That symptom also suggests you haven't programmed tach.

The tach programmed with all the program beeps and flashes.

As for the door locks, did they work before?

That was the issue. They only worked when hitting the lock function. I did not install it and could not find a schematic for the old system. At one point it did work but it stopped working....? So that is why I bought this.

a) See if the vehicle does an R/S with the key in the ignition, if it does and does the same thing connect and program tach.

Does not just engages and stops. All electrical (ACC Blower/Heating-A/C) are running just not the car. Then it tries to start again and same thing. Tries to start but does not stay running.

b) Are the door lock actuators factory or aftermarket?

I am assuming it is an after market as it was not a GMC FOB. I am thinking there is a low volt / high volt type actuator. I need the appropriate H/L volt actuator to allow it to throw the rod.

I spoke with an install shop they said I needed a by-pass for the key pass system. As it stands everything does what it should. It just does not remain running. Kinda stinks that you can wire this unit correctly and it still wont work!

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged

OK, point one, what you described still tells me your problem is tach, the fact that the starter motor stays engaged and then it all shuts down after 10-15 seconds is a no-tach symptom. So look again at where you've connected your tach wire and test with the engine running, DMM set to 20 VAC red probe to the suspect wire, black to ground, should get 1.5 -3 volts AC at idle increasing slightly if you rev. up. N.B. If this vehicle is a diesel, you'd be better off with something like a DEI 464 inductive tach feed, doesn't affect the engine and it's more reliable and stable.

Back to the locks and Kreg will agree with me, there ain't no such animal as a "high/low voltage" actuator.

tayler

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: June 15, 2011

Location: South Carolina, United States

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:06 PM / IP Logged

kreg357 wrote:

If the power door locks are not factory, you will need to check to see the type of unit that is installed. Depending on which type of aftermarket unit, the wiring will vary.

There is a way to bypass the Passlock2 system with 2 relays and a resistor. Here is a link with the wiring diagram and procedure : http://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf You will need a Digital Multi Meter to determine the resistor value required.

I have (1) four pin relay, a 40 amp fuse and a 10 amp fuse all for ignition ; not (2) 5 pin relays. My set up is in the black box at the battery.

The DEI 556LW bypass module will do the same thing and costs about $25 or less.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged

Second point is regarding what you said about the locks.

ALL actuators on a 12volt vehicle will run on 12 volts.

After market units run on 2 or 5 wires.

2 wire is a standard permanent magnet motor where both wires at rest sit on ground, then one goes to 12v+ while the other stays at ground and vice versa for the other direction.

5 wire is the same but usually known as a master, sits in the drivers's door and goes back to a specialist "timer" relay. Turning the key in the driver's door pushes this actuator thus engaging the internal micro-switch (the other three wires) actuating or triggering this relay operating the other "slave" motors.

It's a mistake two wire up 2 masters as the micro-switches inside if they are not mounted in EXACTLY the same position will "work" against each other making the motors go up and down.

You have to look at your actuators and describe them to us especially the wire colours and we can take it from there. The fact that they don't unlock means you have to test at the controlling relay. Do they only lock with the key? You still haven't answered my question.

Are we sure this vehicle needs a by-pass. An install shop told you...does your car key or owner's manual tell you? A lot of vans and SUVs in the US never had them at this time. Though I might be wrong at this point, GMC vans are as rear as rocking horse s**t in the land of Sprinters and Ford Transits.

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,791

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:13 PM / IP Logged

If your aftermarket power locks have a FOB to remotely lock and unlock the doors, then start looking for the control module. There might be an antenna on the windshield and a small box under the dash. Just follow the wires. Often times there are unused external input wires meant for Alarm or Remote Starter control.

The Passlock2 immobilizer system usually affects the fuel pump. The vehicle will crank but not run due to lack of fuel. It is resistance based and there is no transponder chip in the key.

Soldering is fun!

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: June 15, 2011 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged

Crank AND run = tach not programmed, end of yes K.?

I wan't going as far as the dedicated timer relay yet, that's for sometime tomorrow which it is here right now.

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