double checking relays

Hello, I just acquired a viper 5704 and I want to double check everything with the pros here on this site before I go tearing into my wiring harness. I have a 93 Silverado two door. It has the 5 wire alternating door locks, and everything else is factory. Assuming I got this right, I need a relay setup like the one here https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w to actually actuate the lock/unlock outputs on this door trigger system. Then there is the relay for the running/parking lights. I have gotten different results when searching the forum here since some people needed a relay and others didn't even mention it. I would think I need one to actuate the power to them before it hits the switch in the dash, but the viper manual makes no mention of the output power of its parking light output wire. There is also been mention of a relay that must be installed to actuate the dome lights, so at this point im assuming the viper doesn't actually power anything directly but rather just has the output capacity to trigger a relay when needed. I have referred to the wiring diagram in this site and so far the only relay mentioned is the door locks. All that said im really excited to get this thing installed and done right. I just need to make sure I have all the wiring planned out and understood before hand as opposed to half way through the install.

Your research is very good on that older model truck. 

The Viper's Parking Light output, when the jumper / fuse is set to (+), is rated at 10 Amps.  That will be

sufficient for the trucks parking light circuit.

Get a DEI 451M door lock module for the power door locks.  Cost is under $10 and makes things easier

and neater.

Not sure on the Dome Light supervision but a relay is only $2.50 so it's cheap insurance.  You could

test the circuit for current draw with a Digital Multi Meter to see if it does require more that the 200mAsupplied by the Viper.

Soldering is fun!

Ok so I should be good to tap in after the parking light on switch at the dash? Wont that feed back into the viper though when I kick on the parking lights manually? I can and will gladly buy the DEI module, but I want to be sure I can't just do it myself first. I really enjoy the DIY aspect of the project :) Would this https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w have worked the same as the DEI module? Ill test the dome circuit when I start putting it in. I bought 10 relays from amazon for this project so im ready to install the second I am 100% sure I have everything planned correctly. One last question. I bought a battery backup for the alarm system and it looks like a miniature version of the batteries I install into the UPS'S at different client sites (network admin here). Can I safely wire up a 12V 9AH battery in place of this puney little battery here?

The Viper's Parking Light output is a relay, so it isolates itself from the vehicles circuit when not

in use.

Yes, you surely can do the locks yourself with 30/40 Amp SPDT relays and a fuse.  It is more

fun, less expensive, more educational and you get to solder!      The link you posted will work but you might want to add some coil quenching diodes to protect the Viper ( more learning / soldering and diodes are cheap ).  Try to get some 1N4007 diodes off EBay or Amazon, too.  RadioShack has them too but is a bit more expensive.

As for the back-up battery, the voltage is right but if the Viper has some sort of built in charging circuit,

it might present a problem.  Perhaps another Forum Member can jump in with some in-sight on thisaspect.  ( I use those same batteries during R/S bench prep to test and program the units.)   

Soldering is fun!

Ok thanks man :) Ill grab one of those batteries while im at work tomorrow and at least test the alarms/unit before I go through the trouble of installing it in the truck. Boy wouldn't that stink to install it and then have to rip it all out. Ill go ahead and get some diodes to protect the viper. BTW Ive been tinkering with all this stuff for a long while. I just never applied it to a car before, so this is new and fun while im sure for some its tedious and only being done to save money. Also (not to ramble on but I would hate to create another thread) I wanted to use this https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp (the radio on until door opens). If I do the first one without the diodes I just have to feed the accessory wire out to only the radio opposed to having that hooked up to all the accessories? Thankyou for all the help :)

Bugger it Kregg, I was hoping you would slip up and forget the diodes! On a serious note to our OP, quenching diodes AND in line even the lock outputs or you WILL fry the R/S. Ref. back-up battery, ignition controlled input for charging and output to join H1/1 red. Diode 15 amp blocks though? How do those batteries feed to the UPS circuits?

Errata, forget the online diodes but PLEASE use the quenching diodes across the relay coils.

this truck is relatively easy but for some reason i always have trouble with the locks, just my bad luck i guess. the worst example was one time when after i finished wiring up the 5 wire locks only to realize that now the switch worked in reverse, if you press lock the truck unlocks... and every other way i trier to wire it up it either didnt work or blew a fuse. looking back on it it might have been a defective 451M but thats the only thing i can think of that would cause such a dumb problem. and every time i tell the story people look at me like im dumb too

Don't worry, I wish I had $10 for every time I've done 5 wire relays, either in the dark, in a far corner or up side down and blown a fuse! My first door actuator install, about 30 years ago, I ran ONE length of cable U shaped out to the passenger having done and wired up the drivers door before installing the passenger actuator, don't want to mention how many fuses I blew before kicking myself and snipping the ends.

soundnsecurity wrote: this truck is relatively easy but for some reason i always have trouble with the locks, just my bad luck i guess. the worst example was one time when after i finished wiring up the 5 wire locks only to realize that now the switch worked in reverse, if you press lock the truck unlocks... and every other way i trier to wire it up it either didnt work or blew a fuse. looking back on it it might have been a defective 451M but thats the only thing i can think of that would cause such a dumb problem. and every time i tell the story people look at me like im dumb too

i should add that the locks worked normally with the alarm keypad, just the factory switch was inexplicably reversed.