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Car won’t start at all -help-


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mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged  
I just installed a Viper 550 alarm/remote start. All functions of the alarm work properly except the remote start. My key dosen't even start the car. I didn't install the starter kill relay, so there isn't any interuption in the starter wire. Im stuck. Need my car so I can get to work tomorrow.
Bnluis 
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Joined: December 24, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged  
what kind of car???? it will help.
Luis
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Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.
mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged  
99 ford mustang. I got the car to start but the remote start still doesn't work. I checked the diagnostics and the led flashes 7 times, showing that there is a problem w/ the neutral safety shutdown. My wiring dia. of the car shows the starter wire and neutral safety switch beeing the same. Is this correct?
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 4:33 PM / IP Logged  
Two things : Is it a manual transmission & also did you bypass the PATS II system on the Mustang for it to start ?
Jeff
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mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged  
It's an automatic trans. How do I bypass the PATS ll system? I didn't even know the car has one.
auex 
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Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
The nuetral safety switch wire from the brain should go to ground in this vehicle. To bypass PATS you will need to purchase an immobilizer defeat, like DEI's 555f. You will need to place the pellet next to the ignition cylinder. Tip: To get the cylinder out put the key into the ignition turn the vehicle to run then look under the column and insert a small pick into the hole without a screw in it and pull the cylinder out gently.
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mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 22, 2003 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the help. I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the part I need. I'll post again tomorrow and hopefully I'll be done!Car won’t start at all -help- -- posted image.
mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2003 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  
Ok I am running out of time. This is what I have hooked up as of now,(Viper 550 remote start/alarm on 99 Ford Mustang. I have already bypassed Pats ll system.
12 Pin: RED / white to purple / YELLOW d.s. kick panel. Red to battery. Brown to +siren. Black grounded to chassis. Purple,Green,Blue,BLACK/ White,WHITE/ Blue are not hooked up. White to Brown at the light switch.Orange pre wired to starter kill relay.
Starter kill relay: Yellow to Grey / YELLOW at ignition.Green to Pink/white coming from ignition. Black to Pink/white going to starter. The Pink/white wire is cut in half.
6 pin: BLACK/ white to chassis ground.Violet/white to tachometer at p.s. kick panel. Gray to hood pin switch.Brown to RED / green at brake switch.Blue and Blue/black not hooked up.
Satellite Relay: 2 Red to L.GREEN/ purple at ignition. Pink to RED / green at ignition. Orange to Gray / YELLOW at ignition.Purple to WHITE/ pink at ignition. Pink/white to RED / black at ignition.
Please HELP me figure out why the remote start won't activate.
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
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Posted: February 23, 2003 at 10:53 AM / IP Logged  
Okay, a few more questions. You say the car won't start, even with the key?
Most (but not all) of your wiring looks to be correct. But I've never done a newer Mustang; I'm just going from a tech sheet here...the sheet could always be wrong too.
The trunk release is high-current positive trigger; the DEI's RED / white is a low-current negative trigger---you'll need to use a relay-----but doing this wrong shouldn't affect your remote starter at all.
What happens when you try to start the car with the key? Do the radio, heater, seat belt buzzer, warning lights...do they still work? Is the red THEFT or SECURITY light flashing rapidly, or did it come on and then go out as usual?
If the heater and stuff doesn't work, you may have blown a fuse during your install...this happens to all of us once in a while. Go back to the column and test all the yellow and light GREEN/ purple wires...do they still have power? Then, go check the set of large fuses under the hood. From then on, lay some duct tape on those metal bars near the ignition wires---this will keep you from blowing fuses again.
While you're at it, check the fuses going to the remote starter and its relay pack---although even if these fuses were blown, you'd still be able to start the car with the key.
Or, if the THEFT light is flashing....it's time to revisit your PATS bypass. How did you do it? You mentioned that the blue and blue/black from the remote starter are not connected to anything.....these are typically used to power up the DEI 555F or DEI 555U PATS interfaces.....so leaving these unconnected makes me think you've made a wiring error, or you're making your own PATS bypass.
If you've decided to remove the PATS pellet from one of your keys and glue it to the key cylinder...remember that you might have to empty out all your other keys as well-----some cars won't start if they "see" two pellets at the same time.
And remember another troubleshooting trick. You can take away EVERYTHING you've done to bypass PATS. Then, the car should (hopefully) start using the key. After that, the remote start will work perfectly, as long as you leave a good key in the ignition------continue like this until you get everything else working right, then worry about PATS last.
mytjoe 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2003 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  
I got the remote start to engage but the starter stays engaged too. I can't seem to figure out how to program the alarm to detect the tachometer/voltage. I think it's programmed to start w/out checking voltage/tachometer. It will start, the starter stays engaged, then a few seconds later the car shuts down, a few seconds after that it starts this cycle over again and the car will start ect. ect.
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