viper 5704v and dball

Hi everyone. I am new to the site but i will be spending a lot of time here. A vast amount of knowledge in one place. So i searched the forums and found a couple of threads for installing an alarm in and 8th generation civic. with that said i could not find any installs using a xpesskit dball. I was hoping someone could make an install for the 2006 -2011 civics using a viper alarm and the dball? My set up is as follows: 2008 Honda Civic Lx sedan Viper 5704v alarm/rs xpesskit Dball Also i want to use the w2w mode not the d2d mode. I have the wiring diagram from both the dball and the viper and i have matched them up to what i believe are my connections but i want to confirm i have everything done right before committing to the install. I appreciate any help i can get with this!

List what your wiring connections are so far and we can check them.

Should plan on soldering all of your connections.  Have a DMM for testing all wires before making any connections.

When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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This is what i have so far. Viper 5704v main harness 6 pin connector H1/1 red (+)12 volt constant - constant 12 volt H1/2 black (-)chassis ground - ground H1/3 brown (+)siren output - posative wire of siren H1/4 WHITE/ brown park light isolation wire - pin 87a of onboard relay H1/5 white parking light output - headlight switch BLACK/ white pin 11 grey H1/6 orange (-) 500ma ground when armed outut door lock 3 pin connector 1 blue (-) 500ma unlock output - pin 2 of 10 pin connector dball blue (-) unlock input 2 empty 3 green (-) 500ma lock output - pin 1 of 10 pin connector dball green (-) lock output aux/shutdown/trigger harness 24 pin connector H2/1 pink/white(-) 200ma ignition/flex relay control output H2/2 black white (-) neutral safety input - pin 10 of 12 pin connector dball yellow/black (-) handbrake output H2/3 blue/ white (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output H2/4 GREEN/ black (-) 200ma oem alarm disarm output H2/5 RED / white (-) trunk release output - pin 3 of 10 pin connector dball RED / white (-) trunk input H2/6 green (-) door trigger input norm open norm close - pin 3 of 12 pin connector dball grren/white (-) door status output H2/7 black yellow (-) 200ma dome light supervision output H2/8 BROWN / black (-) 200ma horn honk output H2/9 dark blue (-) 200ma status output - pin 10 of 10 pin connector dball blue/whote (-) GWR status input H2/10 pink (-) 200ma ignition 1 output H2/11 white black (-) 200ma aux 3 output H2/12 violet (+) door trigger output H2/13 white violet (-) 200ma aux 1 output H2/14 violet/black (-) 200ma aux 2 output H2/15 ORANGE / black (-) 200ma aux 4 output H2/16 brown (+) brake shutdown input - pin 6 of 12 pin connector dball grey (+) brake status output H2/17 grey (-) hood pin input norm open norm close - pin 12 of 12 pin connector dball blue/red (-) hood status output H2/18 violet / YELLOW (-) 200ma starter output H2/19 blue (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input norm open norm close - pin 4 of 12 pin connector dball (-) trunk status output H2/20 grey/black (-) diesel wait to start input - not used H2/21 white blue (-) remote start/turbo timer activation input - not used H2/22 orange (-) 200ma accessory output - not used H2/23 violet white tach input - number 4 injector H2/24 green white (-) 200ma oem arm output remote start 10 pin heavy gauge connector H3/1 pink (+) ignition 1 input/output H3/2 RED / white (+) fused 30a ignition 2/ flex replay input 87 H3/3 orange (+) accessory output H3/4 violet (+) starter output car side of started kill H3/5 green (+) started input key side of starter kill H3/6 red (+) fused 30a ignition 1 input H3/7 pink/white (+) ignition 2 flex relay output H4/8 pink/black (+) flex relay input 87a key side if required of flex relay H3/9 RED / black (+) fused 30a accessory/starter input H3/10 no connection everything is in question but what is in bold i am really questioning. i want to do it myself as i have done all my audio myself and take a great deal of care to ensure everything is perfect.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Blue @ Ignition Switch Harness H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)        White @ Ignition Switch Harness H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT  Orange @ Ignition Switch Harness H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) Yellow @ Ignition Switch Harness *** Cut wire H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)      Yellow @ Ignition Switch Harness   ***Cut wire H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)  White @ Ignition Switch Harness H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT      Red @ Ignition Switch Harness *** Set to Accessory2 - Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2 H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT       Not Used H3/9 RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) White @ Ignition Switch Harness H3/10 NC No Connection Verify that your car has a Factory Hood Pin. If it does not have one, the DB-ALL will not be able to supply the Hood Pin input to the Viper. You will then have to install the Viper supplied Hood Pin and run a wire to that. The clutch bypass is pretty simple. You will run the Vipers Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA Starter Output to the correct wire at the clutch pedal interlock switch connector. Think I have that info on file somewhere.Soldering is fun!

Awesome! Thanks kreg357! Do i have any connections that are wrong or am i missing any connections? Also how do i wire the trunk to open with the remote while car is running? i read somewhere i have to include a relay

More input... H1/5 is OK. Ensure the Viper Parking Light jumper/fuse is set to (-) H1/6 not used H2/1 not used H2/3 could be used for rear defroster H2/4 not used H2/7 not used H2/8 optional to Civic Horn H2/10 not used H2/11 not used H2/12 not used H2/13 not used H2/14 not used H2/15 not used H2/18 for clutch interlock bypass - ref PM H2/23 Tach to DB-ALL Violet/White Tach Output H2/24 not used Does your Civic have a trunk release button on the Factory FOB? For the Viper to control a trunk release thru the DB-ALL, the Civic must have the trunk release solenoid. Some Civic's only had a release lever and cable going to the trunk...Soldering is fun!

Kreg357 H2/3 I would like to use this for the defroster but know how. Read something somewhere about the light coming on/not coming on the dash. Where/how would wire this up? H2/23 My understanding is i have to wire this direct whether D-BALL is D2D or W2W is this correct? Also do you mean run wire from the tach to the DB-ALL Violet/White Tach Output? Yes my factory fob as the trunk button. I am sure i will have more questions as i go. Is it ok if i refer the questions back here to you?

i am still confused with this: - H1/4 WHITE/ brown park light isolation wire - pin 87a of onboard relay - H2/6 green (-) door trigger input norm open norm close - pin 3 of 12 pin connector D-BALL GREEN / WHITE (-) door status output [do i have to set this for normally open or normally close or does it auto detect? some confusion with this wire] - H2/17 grey (-) hood pin input norm open norm close - pin 12 of 12 pin connector D-BALL blue/red (-) hood status output [again not sure what to do with the norm open or norm close] - H2/19 blue (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input norm open norm close - pin 4 of 12 pin connector D-BAL (-) trunk status output [ im starting to think that the norm open norm close means these wires r a status indicator but please inform me if i am worng! ] - H3/4 violet (+) starter output (car side) – yellow @ ignition switch - H3/5 green (+) starter input (key side) – yellow @ ignition switch harness ***cut wire [Do i wire these to together at the yellow on the ignition harness? what do you mean by cut wire? ] there are a few different wires going to the white wire on the ignition harness as well. they all get wired to the same white wire?

H2/3 I would like to use this for the defroster but know how. Read something somewhere about the light coming on/not coming on the dash. Where/how would wire this up?    Here is the info from AudioVox :   Rear Defrost     BROWN (-)      @ A/C CONTROL PANEL You will have to test for this wire and once found, determine if it needs a single trigger pulse or a Latched output. I believe it needs a Latched, so you will set the H2/3 Blue/White wire for the 10 minute latched output ( Menu 3, Item 11, Option 2 ). Most likely the Civic's Rear Defrost light will not come on, but the defroster grid will. H2/23 My understanding is i have to wire this direct whether D-BALL is D2D or W2W is this correct? Also do you mean run wire from the tach to the DB-ALL Violet/White Tach Output?    My assumption was you were going W2W from the other wire connections. If you are going D2D, it depends on the R/S whether if can obtain the Tach signal via the D2D harness. Just wire it directly between the R/S Tach Input and the DB-ALL Tach Output and all will be OK. Yes my factory fob as the trunk button. Then you should be OK with connecting the R/S's Trunk Release Output to the DB-ALL's Trunk Release Input. - H1/4 WHITE/ brown park light isolation wire - pin 87a of onboard relay    On some vehicles ( think I remember a 2006 Impala ) require this type connection to prevent damage to the BCM. It can be used in some Chrylser vehicles with the light MUX wire and a resistor to get the Parking Lights on. Your Civic is very simple and only needs a (-) applied to the Parking Light wire. - H2/6 green (-) door trigger input norm open norm close - pin 3 of 12 pin connector D-BALL GREEN / WHITE (-) door status output [do i have to set this for normally open or normally close or does it auto detect? some confusion with this wire] The Default setting ( NO ) is correct for your Civic and the DB-ALL's output. - H2/17 grey (-) hood pin input norm open norm close - pin 12 of 12 pin connector D-BALL blue/red (-) hood status output [again not sure what to do with the norm open or norm close] Same answer, your Civic is NO style ( as is the DB-ALL's output ). Here is Vipers description : 1-9 Hood Trigger (Normally Open): Hood trigger (normally closed). To program

the unit for either a normally open (rests open, or at 12v when the hood

is closed) or a normally closed (rests at ground when the hood is closed) pin

switch. - H2/19 blue (-) trunk pin/instant trigger input norm open norm close - pin 4 of 12 pin connector D-BAL (-) trunk status output [ im starting to think that the norm open norm close means these wires r a status indicator but please inform me if i am worng! ] Correct, same. - H3/4 violet (+) starter output (car side) – yellow @ ignition switch - H3/5 green (+) starter input (key side) – yellow @ ignition switch harness ***cut wire [Do i wire these to together at the yellow on the ignition harness? what do you mean by cut wire? ] The Starter Kill circuit is actually a relay built into the Viper brain. The purpose is to prevent the car from starting by interrupting the cars ignition switch starter wire when the Viper is armed / locked. To incorporate this feature, you must cut the Civic Yellow Starter wire ( in a convenient / accessible ) place and make very solid / reliable ( solder ) connections to the Violet and Green Viper wires, as indicate to the correct sides of the cut Yellow wire. This Starter Kill circuit is not mandatory. If you don't want this feature or don't want to cut the Civic's starter wire, then just connect the Vipers Violet wire to the un-cut Civic Yellow starter wire ( leave the H3/5 Green wire not connected ). there are a few different wires going to the white wire on the ignition harness as well. they all get wired to the same white wire? Yes. Your Viper has 4 power wires that need to be connected to a +12V constant source of sufficient current rating. As long as it's just the Viper with the basic siren and connected to the (-) Parking Lights, you will be fine using the White wire at the ignition harness. It has a 50 Amp rating. With the Civic install, do not combine all the Viper power wires into one wire and run that one wire to the Civic's White wire.Soldering is fun!

Here is the info from AudioVox :   Rear Defrost     BROWN (-)      @ A/C CONTROL PANEL You will have to test for this wire and once found, determine if it needs a single trigger pulse or a Latched output. I believe it needs a Latched, so you will set the H2/3 Blue/White wire for the 10 minute latched output ( Menu 3, Item 11, Option 2 ). Most likely the Civic's Rear Defrost light will not come on, but the defroster grid will. How will i test that wire? If its a pulse i will get a pule at that wire and if its latched i will get a constant? Yes. Your Viper has 4 power wires that need to be connected to a +12V constant source of sufficient current rating. As long as it's just the Viper with the basic siren and connected to the (-) Parking Lights, you will be fine using the White wire at the ignition harness. It has a 50 Amp rating. With the Civic install, do not combine all the Viper power wires into one wire and run that one wire to the Civic's White wire. Do not combine the wires because the one single wire will not be able to supply the amps right? I have a proximity sensor as well. Should i run a decent gauge wire in to supply the 12v constant?