2012 Kia Sorento Alarm/Remote Start Pictorial

Figured i would give this a try pics are kind of fuzzy (taken with my phone) This is on a 2012 kia Sorento Regular key Using a 4103 2 phillps head screws in bottom corners white clips on back side of dash panel very easy to break cheap plastic more cheap clips 2 phlips head screws in side of front panel 5 10mm bolts and 1 10mm nut holds this in Brake-yellow wire at switch Drivers door unlock-Back of fuse box (3 10mm bolts hold fuse box in) middle plug yellow/black test using the key in the drivers door turning the key 2 times will ground this wire. Need to use this wire tied in with the unlock wire using a diode between to isolate the 2 or drivers door wont unlock (Diode band faces remote start) Unlock-Gray/Black ground triggered bottom connector right side of fuse box Lock-Blue/Black ground triggered same connector as unlock Factory alarm disarm-pink same connector as locks test using key in door Hood trigger-RED / black in red connector front of fuse box when the hood is open wire is grounded (You can kind of see the white connector to the left of the red connector that has the locks in it) fuse box orange is ing 1,blue acc1,yellow is acc2,green is starter lrg black connector in middle orange is 12v Horn-Gray/black negitive tach- yellow wire cylinder 4 coil [2 I forgot to add] 2 Phillps head screws one on each side 1 Phillps head under column shroudIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Thanks for the pictorial. I did a 2011 Sorento last year with smartkey. Real nice vehicle to install in.

Yea not bad at all I do alot of themIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Just an update the 2013 is the same truck for both the reg key and smart keyIf i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Had a quick question on what type of diode your using on this install puttin my first one in this weekend and was wondering thanks

I used a 1n4007If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

I'm thinking of getting 2013 Sorento. Xpresskit does not have anything listed for stand key. So we dont need any bypass for these vehicles?Dont Drive and Text, but

Do Text Then Drive

If it's us built then no transponder. All the wiring is the same as the 12If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Apologies for a partial repeat question here, i just made a similar post on another thread about this before i ran across your pictorial. You mention that the lock/unlock is ground triggered but all the wiring diagrams i've found for this vehicle show the door lock/unlock and arm/disarm wires as negative which i assume means they require positive pulse to trigger. Am I misunderstanding this? The same question applies to the dome light and horn and trunk release which are also listed as negative on all wiring diagrams... Do these all require relays to reverse polarity and pulse positive? Also the diagrams show the parking lights having a negative wire at the switch harness as well as two separate (L & R) positive wires at the dash fuse box. which of these should be used?

All the wiring labeled negative trigger requires a ground to activate the circuit. For parking lights use the blue at the switch ground triggered. You can also grab parking lights in the back of the fuse box same blue wire. Make sure you test each wire with a dmm before you connect to it to avoid any expensive damage to your truck.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe